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ABS delete kit??

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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 09:04 PM
  #16  
mrcox's Avatar
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I have just done this to my Evo and all it takes is a RS master cylinder and the RS brake lines. The part numbers needed are:

MR493301 LF line $5.81
MR493302 RF line $16.64
4650A045 LR line $9.38
4650A046 RR line $8.98
RS master cylinder with the porp valves. (this is expensive from mitsu so it is best to buy it used.)

The rear brake lines end right under the firewall so it is a easy swap.
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mrcox
I have just done this to my Evo and all it takes is a RS master cylinder and the RS brake lines. The part numbers needed are:

MR493301 LF line $5.81
MR493302 RF line $16.64
4650A045 LR line $9.38
4650A046 RR line $8.98
RS master cylinder with the porp valves. (this is expensive from mitsu so it is best to buy it used.)

The rear brake lines end right under the firewall so it is a easy swap.
What about the electronic end of things?
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Old Jun 4, 2008 | 10:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by XK120
What about the electronic end of things?
I'm guessing no issues since its not an ACD equipped car. Anybody have info on how to get around the wheel speed sensors and the fact that they need to talk to the ACD ECU? All I did was keep the 'block' that the wiring plugged into and zip-tied it to the strut bar. ACD seems to work, but there's got to be a more elegant solution.

Thanks,

Dave

Last edited by DaveK; Jun 4, 2008 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:01 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by DaveK
I'm guessing no issues since its not an ACD equipped car. Anybody have info on how to get around the wheel speed sensors and the fact that they need to talk to the ACD ECU? All I did was keep the 'block' that the wiring plugged into and zip-tied it to the strut bar. ACD seems to work, but there's got to be a more elegant solution.

Thanks,

Dave
the abs computer has the wheel speed sensors plugged into it and then it retransmits a wheelspeed signal to the acd controller. The RS just has the wheel speed sensors run directly to the acd controller. It's as simple as de pinning the sensors from the abs connector and plugging them into the acd controller(with the correct pins of course).

Last edited by griceiv; Sep 14, 2009 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 01:53 PM
  #20  
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Id love to resolve this issue as well - saving the weight of the master cylinder, standrad pedals etc and having better braking performance would be a double win.

I spoke to AP over here in the Uk who saod the following....its too rich for my blood though. it would solve the space issues i think DaveK....

This is the best solution as you don't need the prop valve and avoid some of the problems they give. This is not the cheapest option but for weight and performance (and also ease of fitting) this is the ultimate. You can tune the front and rear with different cylinders and have a balance bar for extra adjustment.

http://www.apracing.com/info/index.a...Pull+Type_2343

thoughts? group buy?

Ian

Last edited by vikingboy; Jun 8, 2008 at 01:56 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by vikingboy
Id love to resolve this issue as well - saving the weight of the master cylinder, standrad pedals etc and having better braking performance would be a double win.

I spoke to AP over here in the Uk who saod the following....its too rich for my blood though. it would solve the space issues i think DaveK....

This is the best solution as you don't need the prop valve and avoid some of the problems they give. This is not the cheapest option but for weight and performance (and also ease of fitting) this is the ultimate. You can tune the front and rear with different cylinders and have a balance bar for extra adjustment.

http://www.apracing.com/info/index.a...Pull+Type_2343

thoughts? group buy?

Ian
Honestly, the factory pedal assembly has worked with no issues. The pedals aren't that heavy, and they're simple to replace if its necessary. The tilton/wilwood stuff would only be a benefit IMO if you were trying to move your seat back 10" for weight distribution. However, due the rear cross bar in the Custom Cages roll cage, there isn't enough room to move more than 3-5" back. Remember if you remove the factory pedals, you'll need to transfer the sensors too, so that adds some additional complexity.

I used a tilton balance bar assembly (under $200), then wilwood dual master cyl (they're cheaper than the tilton ones). The piece off the back side of the booster is used to interface with the balance bar. Pics of the setup can be seen in the link about the build of my car in my signature.

Dave
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by griceiv
the abs computer has the wheel speed sensors plugged into it and then it retransmits a wheelspeed signal to the acd controller. The RS just has the wheel speed sensors run directly to the acd controller. It's as simple as de pinning the sensors from the abs connector and plugging them into the acd controller(with the correct pins of course).

I have an RS master cylinder with the prop valves sitting in the garage. PM me if anyone wants to buy it.
Can you tell what pins are used for the wheel speed sensors in the service manual from the abs ecu and then just find a way to put it into the harness of the acd ecu?
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by timmiii
Can you tell what pins are used for the wheel speed sensors in the service manual from the abs ecu and then just find a way to put it into the harness of the acd ecu?
uh, yep.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by vikingboy
Id love to resolve this issue as well - saving the weight of the master cylinder, standrad pedals etc and having better braking performance would be a double win.

I spoke to AP over here in the Uk who saod the following....its too rich for my blood though. it would solve the space issues i think DaveK....

This is the best solution as you don't need the prop valve and avoid some of the problems they give. This is not the cheapest option but for weight and performance (and also ease of fitting) this is the ultimate. You can tune the front and rear with different cylinders and have a balance bar for extra adjustment.

http://www.apracing.com/info/index.a...Pull+Type_2343


thoughts? group buy?

Ian
FYI, these types of setups are really geared for racecars because they always see about the same decel level (max), so once you tune the setup for max G decels with weight transfer your RR becomes more bias on low G decels (locking RR brakes ...but it really depends on how serious you decel)

Hope that makes sense. High G decel is about 80/20 bias... Low G is about 50/50.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 06:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by griceiv
uh, yep.
Can you help me with that? I'm reading the service manual and I cannot find it for the life of me.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 06:29 PM
  #26  
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lol why god why. Drag racing only mod.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 07:16 PM
  #27  
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Nevermind! I figured it out after looking at the service manual one more time with a little more patience... Back to studying! Thanks for the help and suggestions!
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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #28  
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Stm
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 12:47 PM
  #29  
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We sell the whole kit:

Before:


After:


http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...emoval_kit.htm



-Shawna
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 12:56 PM
  #30  
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How does your kit deal with the wiring that the ACD needs from the wheel speed sensors?

Dave
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