If you're car has ACD, those wires contain the wheel speed sensors. You can go through and figure out which wire is which and then cuts & splice them together, but honestly, the easiest fix is to replace that section of harness with one from the RS model.

Dave

 

I removed all of mine, its fairly involved to be honest. Last year I just siliconed the connector and taped it, it wasnt very noticeable down by the cross member. This year I made a harness with a quick disconnect at the firewall to remove all unneeded wires and shorten the harness. Its all covered in my build thread.

 

I do not have ACD...could i just cut that big harnesss off at the firwall where it starts to go into the rest of the harness...seal up the loose ends and call it a day?

 

There are wires within that harness that have 12v, If you cut that harness and it happened to touch any bare metal or grounds within the harness you could be causing yourself a very painful intermittent wiring issue. If you decide to do so just do so with caution.

 

I removed my ABS last night. I used the master cylinder off of a 2003 Base model Lancer ($35 used on ebay). I purchased all the lines with the part numbers provided in this thread ($54 shipped from Mitsubishiparts.net). I then used the diagram posted above to ground that wire on the ABS harness. All is well and the car brakes pretty good.

Do not do this mod if you race the car in a fasion that involves alot of heavy braking, the EVO abs works real well. My car does not race on a track, only a strip. You can still brake pretty intensely on the street and do what an evo is made to do

Here's a good guide on bleeding brakes: http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/brak...ebleeding.html

 

^^^^
Nice job on the install. Did you run into any hiccups or was it fairly straight forward?

WRT not doing this for racing. Road courses and rally racing are huge reasons to do the ABS delete. Folks do it on road courses to give more consistent feedback in the braking zones. In rally racing it is darn near impossible to rotate the car utilizing left foot braking with the ABS still engaging.

 

Thanks bud. Very straight forward, just swap a few lines and swap the master cylinder. Very easy.

 

did you guys pull the intake manifold when you did it? i think i might just to clean some things up and pull the firewall protector pad off it.

 

No, there's really no need to as its not in the way at all. Maybe just the strut tower bar.

 

This is my abs delete firewall, also removed relay plate and wiper wiring hole to the inside of the cabin. Then removed the pad, shaved the unneeded studs and resprayed the bay along with making a quick disconnect milspec harness.



This is what it looks like finished.



I had a rod bend and window the block, having all that extra wiring and unused stuff removed from the bay has made it much easier to pull the engine or anything else from the bay.

 

I think ill start tonight... i have a jmf intake mani on mine so its kinda close but ill see what i can do i like the look of moving the relay plate!!! did you have to lengthen any wires to do that?

 

I had the entire harness apart to do the firewall plug, in my harness I shortened everything but in a stock harness I don't know for sure if it will reach or not.

 

Looks good, where did you put the main fuse block?

 

Did this work for anyone else? I can't get my light to go off.

 

I moved the ecu over a few inches and put it behind the glove box. My car also has srs deleted so there is a decent size space behind the glove box. The glove box is fully functional and the fuse box is easily accessible, the cover still fits.

This is a picture of test fitment before everything was bundled back together. In the pic you can see the wiper wires before they were shortened and re routed. To remove the entire harness all I have to do is disconnect power and headlight plugs and remove the entire dash bar out as one piece along with all the wiring.


This was how it looked all factory with the exception of the Alpine radio jumper harness. They are a mess without the dash in place.