I finally tested this mod head to head with the Forge Actuator, results posted here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=369859

 

I got this with only the factory reflashes and a buschur catback no tune no wga adjustment no boost controller on a mustang awd-md-500 the shopworkers ww evo x stock w/ factory reflashes dynoed 221awhp 248 wtq on it.

SAE Corrected
I seem pretty close to your numbers just not as smooth , without any boost modification. I should prob test this and see what the dyno tells me. Result possibly by Monday.

 

i think i'll stick with 2.5 turns.
it did hold boost better.

 

Umm...sorry to resurrect an old thread, but can someone repost that awesome PDF how-to guide? I forgot to save it :-(

verkion

 

all theses different scenerios with everybodys car all depends on how you broke it in, i broke it mine in like i drive it, hard and to the point, but at times with finesse, my car produced better numbers stock than my buddies who broke his in all sweet and nice in fear of mesing up something, i was able turn my wga 4 turns and had tremendous power like everybody else, if you arent using a boost controller of some sort you will see spikes and tapers, the adjusting of the wga helps control that, i dont think mitsu intended on us to use that method but we do, we have for years on our dsms, if your not tuned dont go over 24 psi, you will cause problems and one day be like wtf!! slow steady easy modding and tuning is the way to accomplish your goals

 

by the way with my 4 turns and my perrin mbc i was holding 21psi no spike no taper all the through redline @7000rpms, now i how the forge wga which is preset @18 and now holding psi @24 no spike no taper

 

How safe is testing this without a mbc? As with only a cat-back for a mod my boost already spikes 23-24 sometimes then drops to 20psi holds from 3400rpm-4400rpm then drops down to 18psi holds from 4400rpm-4900rpm then drops and holds 16psi 5300rpm-6000rpm then it just takes a huge plummet moving all the way down to 14psi>>12.5psi(red-line) from 6000rpm-7200rpm , because of this horrid taper a gutted 20g neon took me by half a car. If it held 20+ to red-line I'm pretty sure the story be alot different.

 

we are running our car with an MBC (23.5 psi tapering to about 16.5) with 1.5 turns...

with our test pipe, catback, intake, radiator, and fmic... we are making 311/300 without a reflash!

cb

 

Very impressive to say the least!

 

I'm sorry I have to post this, I feel like a retard.

I spent a pretty long time today doing what should have been a simple few tasks. I have cheap tools - I need to upgrade - I managed to bend a wrench trying to remove the 14mm nuts on the strut tower brace. I could remove four with a socket set, but two are partially covered - I need to get a strong wrench with decent leverage.

Anyway, the heat shield doesn't come out of the engine compartment with the strut tower still on. I replaced it so I could try again another day when I have some decent tools, but to my surprise, the heat shield doesn't fit properly any more. This is my usual luck. The hole for the bolt on the bottom left is nowhere near where the mounting point on the headers is. I am talking a good 1 1/2" away. It looks like I'll have to remove the whole thing to somehow bend it back into the right shape - I think it distorted when I was trying to get it out. It was wedged in there awkwardly.

My question is this - how difficult is it to remove the clip on the wastegate actuator rod, as mentioned above - seriously? I don't know how everyone else is doing it, but I really can't get a good look around the back of the wastegate and the clip has no obvious way of removal. I don't want to break or lose it, so I thought I'd ask.

 

You don't need to pull out the strut tower...it's tight but the heat shield DOES rotate all the way out...tricky but doable. When you put the heatshield back you can move the holes for the nuts around a bit. There's a bit of play. Just don't tighten down any of the bolts until you have all 5 in aligned and partially screwed in. Seriously, this mod took me less time than changing my stupid drop-in air filter intake. I had a hard time getting that to line up. Ugh...

verkion

 

Bump for a good thread. I will try this on my car.

 

Just tried it in my X. Definitely feels much stronger than before. Great free mod. 3.5 turns clockwise for me.

 

a great find! I will get this done when modding my car at the local tune shop.

 

Bump for any more findings on how it affects AFR and a new how to.