Originally Posted by gunzo

When you say turns .. do you mean every 1/2 rotation of the eyelet or 1 complete turn ???

mine can only go 4 1/2 turns max before reaching the ends of the tread ..

Originally Posted by Hiboost

2 Turns - Min Boost at mid RPM was 22-23 PSI, boost tapers to 20 PSI @ redline

2.5 Turns - Min Boost at mid RPM was 24-25 PSI, boost tapers to 21 PSI @ redline

3 Turns - Minimum boost at mid RPM was 26-27 PSI , boost tapers to 22 PSI @ redline

3.5 Turns - Not possible in my car, which means mine was already a 1/2 turn tighter than most from then factory from what I can tell.

Basically the angle of the internal WG flapper was starting to induce boost creep on my car at my mod level. I chose to back it down to 2 turns since the mid RPM boost creep was just too uncontrollable. I noticed that even at 2.5 turns the boost would creep to 25 PSI in 5th at the mid RPM's which wasn't really good if I wanted to run lower boost at a road course. I also tested a direct boost line to the WG and got 15-16 PSI base then it creeped up to the mid RPM numbers above the same as when I was using the MBC.

From what I can tell the extra boost you get beyond 20 PSI at redline on these stock turbos is likely just not worth forcing out of the turbo. We'll see if I can get the same (or better) trapspeeds with 2 turns versus 2.5 turns at the drag strip after my clutch goes in.

Originally Posted by Robevo RS

so what are you saying is, to being safe the 2 turn worked best for you/ since you said yours was a half turn tighter then others, from factory/
so if i will do a 2 turn mods just for see the result and staying the safe side.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Hiboost

Yes that sounds about right, but as always you should check how the boost levels are effected on your specific car.

I replaced my stock actuator last night with a Forge and will have some data to post soon.

As for adjusting the stock Actuator I have one more engine blowing mod you can do if you "run out of adjustment" and want higher boost and more preload. You could easily place a washer or two on the actuator mounting bolts to add preload or cut off 1-2 threads from the end of the rod which would allow the eyelet some more adjustment range. Personally I think it would limit the travel of the wastgate flapper too far and cause crazy high boost in the midrange, you have been warned!