CBRD

I know this is off topic, but what is up with your website? You seem to do alot for the EVO community and offer performance parts, even make some like the radiator for the Evo IX, but how do people know considering your website has been in constuction for the last year.

 

I did mine, really holds the boost all the way to redline. I started with 3 turns, car ran great, but I was pushing 25-27 psi wot fifth gear with not taper, no SES light, I ran it hard, not problems. So to be safe, I back off a 1/2 turn to 2 1/2 turn. I like it here 22 -24 psi WOT fourth & fifth gear but very little taper if any, the pulls hard and smooth pass redline in fourth and in fifth I need more open road this car can fly. I'm running Shiv PROcede tune box, ETS top ICP, Cobb turbo intake pipe, works drop-in with modify air box intake (more cold air, zero engine air), 3" cat-back to dual.
This mod just finished off. I will get dyno after the 4th.

jacksontw60

 

Procede for the X

 

i just did this and it is bad ***...it boosts way harder and continously pulls through all gears... it doesnt take long to do it but make sure you have pliers or 13 mm wrench...

 

How many turns did you go and what mods?

 

By the way, I have not adjusted the waste gate yet and my boost gauge in certain situations has spiked 25psi before. Average is 21-23psi ...but if I hold boost in 3rd gears and step on it hard it spikes to 25psi for a split second. Is that normal?

 

yeah small turbos can build boost very quickly.... so that spike for a second is normal

 

Did mine 2.5 turns last night and did not tighten the heat shield all the way down and could hear it rattle...Would that cuz my engine to think it was knock because it seemed to do nothing to my car...I came back and tightened it and still the same...Should I reset my car by pulling the battery?...

 

^Are you sure that you tightened it and didn't turb it the wrong way? If you loosened it then there's your problem. It's almost impossible for this to do nothing. Either way, I still think that with this turbo being as small as it is that trying to push it too hard has negative effects. With ecu tuning the boost can be safely raised and allow the curve to go from 22 to 18 at redline, and that's about as much as this turbo wants to do without getting out of it's efficiency range and overheating the intercooler.

That's still about a 3 psi improvemnt in taper and doesn't overheat the intercooler as seen in perrin's test results. They were getting almost 100 degree increases on the inlet side of the intercooler,and although they attribute this to the turbo being a little too close to the manifold, I think that's it's actually a mix of that and the fact that they are running like 27 psi. This baby little turbo can't do it, but it doesn't matter because the head in this car is so badass that the power keeps climbing all the way to redline even as boost drops. This is also because of the fact that the bore and stroke is square now, and it seems to love lots of timing up top.

Cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure, whether it comes from timing or boost so people have got to stop associating a better boost curve with more power. That's only the case on a big turbo that can hold boost all the way to redline without dropping and still stay cool and efficient. The X's turbo is not one of these turbos. Know your engine/turbo config and give it what it wants. I have spoken.

 

Try resetting the ECU, it made mine run a bit better afterwards.

 

I turned it clockwise while standing on the passenger side...I know I turned it the correct way...I will try reseting the Ecu by pulling the battery...

 

im still wondering how standing on diferent sides of the car affects the direction of rotation....

you would have to be laying under the car for it to change to counter clockwise

 

Because if you are standing on the pass side, rotating the clevis clockwise relative to the direction you are facing turns to top of the clevis towards the front of the car. On the driver's side, for the top of the clevis to go towards the front of the car, the clevis needs to go counterclockwise relative to the direction you are facing. It's the same motion of the clevis relative to the actuator rod regardless of side. Perspective relative to position is opposite given the different sides of the car.

If you were lying under the car, you would not be looking down the axis of rotation for the clevis, and therefore there is no direction of rotation that can be described.

 

I think that an easier way to describe it is to say that the clevis needs to be screwed in the direction of the wastegate actuator. Or, you could just say screw it in the direction that makes the rod shorter... anyone not competant enough to understand this shouldn't even be messing with this, I'm sure you'll agree. At the end of the day, you can only hold someone's hand for so long. Either way, I still think that this is probably not the way to go anyway. (See my earlier post).

 

I agree to a point, but everyone starts somewhere. In 1989 I was 18 and I bought a 1983 Mustang GT which, at the time, I though was the fastest thing on the road. In hind sight, that car probably would have been lucky to run a 15 second 1/4 mile. I was a total noob, and screwed up alot of stuff, but I learned by trial and error. Fast forward 10 years and I had a 900-ish whp single turbo Mustang I built 99% of it myself, and it was going 9.40's @ 140+ mph. Just now-days noobs buy $30k cars, not $3k cars and pay someone else huge money for "tuning", or whatever it's called now. I'd hate to discourage someone from at least trying it themselves. I guess I'm rambling.

If everyone re-reads my original posts, I did say back off the jam nut and then rotate the clevis so it moves towards the jam nut. I thought that was the simplest, but then we got on the clockwise counter clockwise thing, which was my own fault since I was being a smart ***. Sorry.