CBRD wins the least expensive power mod award...
I really don't know how well it will work with MBC vs EBC vs stock. My car has no MBC or EBC, it's using the factory control system and factory MAF. I left it at 3 1/2 turns just to see what happens, and I'll change it today if I get a cell with the stock MAF. I'll prob just turn the clevis out to it's stock position this evening since I want to make an appointment for the second reflash, and would prefer to just avoid questions if they take a test drive, etc.
I bought a used Forge UNOS MBC to install, but it apparently has the heavy spring or something. When I bench tested it on the air compressor the spring/ball wouldn't even pass enough pressure to crack open the wastegate until the air compressor was regulated to about 28 psi of "boost". That was it's lowest setting, and "boost" just kept going higher the more I turned the knob in. I don't want to run 28 psi, and therefore I need a lighter spring. Glad I bench tested it before installing. I was going to do a second "how to" write up yesterday showing how to install an MBC or EBC in parrallel with the factory control system, using a GM 3 port boost solenoid and a check valve and a WOT switch, but since the MBC wasn't usable as is, I have to wait for a new MBC spring.
I bought a used Forge UNOS MBC to install, but it apparently has the heavy spring or something. When I bench tested it on the air compressor the spring/ball wouldn't even pass enough pressure to crack open the wastegate until the air compressor was regulated to about 28 psi of "boost". That was it's lowest setting, and "boost" just kept going higher the more I turned the knob in. I don't want to run 28 psi, and therefore I need a lighter spring. Glad I bench tested it before installing. I was going to do a second "how to" write up yesterday showing how to install an MBC or EBC in parrallel with the factory control system, using a GM 3 port boost solenoid and a check valve and a WOT switch, but since the MBC wasn't usable as is, I have to wait for a new MBC spring.
Thread Starter
Account Disabled
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,363
Likes: 8
From: york, pa 17402
wow, is the X sensitive to fuel... we got fuel from another station on a trip, then put the car on the dyno, and it lost 20whp and 20wtq!!
cb
^ Please share your fuel experiences... I used to be a strict Sunoco guy until they cut off the 94... I've heard that Buschur has great experiences with Shell so that's where I've been going lately. Since I'm in the same state, I'm sure it will be the same for me. Where was this fuel from?
Thread Starter
Account Disabled
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,363
Likes: 8
From: york, pa 17402
^ Please share your fuel experiences... I used to be a strict Sunoco guy until they cut off the 94... I've heard that Buschur has great experiences with Shell so that's where I've been going lately. Since I'm in the same state, I'm sure it will be the same for me. Where was this fuel from?
cb
I'm with you on the fuel variance. I tune on and use Shell 93 almost exclusively, since its so readily available in my area. I'd most prefer Phillips 66/Conoco/76, but they are getting really scarce here.
I just put my car back to 100% stock other than the 3 1/2 turns on the wastegate actuator. That is, stock air filter, stock air box, stock intake tube, stock MAF, stock exhaust, stock cat converter, stock muffler, stock boost control, etc. My car has the first reflash but not the second reflash. It does NOT have a MBC or EBC, it is using the factory boost control setup controled by an untuned ECU (first factory reflash for idle has been applied).
Most free mods, when people do them, feel faster, but really aren't. The wastegate actuator mod is a whole crap load faster. I don't know how to describe it other than that. My particular butt dyno measures in crap loads, and it's at least one crap load faster. All I could do is sit in the drivers seat and think "holy crap", hence the units of measurements.
Originally, with the wastegate actuator in the factory position, boost on my autometer gauge would spike around 21 psi and drop back to about 15 psi at 7000 RPM. With the actuator turned in 3 1/2 turns, it now peaks around 24-25 psi and drops back to about 19-20 psi around 7000 RPM.
I did a bunch of WOT third / fourth gear pulls and got no check engine light at all. I drove around a little trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but I have not gotten one (yet?). I really need to spend more time trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but for today, being the first day, I can't comment on part throttle.
I would recommend this as a first mod, assuming future part throttle boost spikes do not generate a CEL. Only time will tell on that.
I did not reset the ECU this time (the first time I tried this). I just removed the battery ground before I came inside to type this, and I will go back out and try again later with the reset ECU.
Most free mods, when people do them, feel faster, but really aren't. The wastegate actuator mod is a whole crap load faster. I don't know how to describe it other than that. My particular butt dyno measures in crap loads, and it's at least one crap load faster. All I could do is sit in the drivers seat and think "holy crap", hence the units of measurements.
Originally, with the wastegate actuator in the factory position, boost on my autometer gauge would spike around 21 psi and drop back to about 15 psi at 7000 RPM. With the actuator turned in 3 1/2 turns, it now peaks around 24-25 psi and drops back to about 19-20 psi around 7000 RPM.
I did a bunch of WOT third / fourth gear pulls and got no check engine light at all. I drove around a little trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but I have not gotten one (yet?). I really need to spend more time trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but for today, being the first day, I can't comment on part throttle.
I would recommend this as a first mod, assuming future part throttle boost spikes do not generate a CEL. Only time will tell on that.
I did not reset the ECU this time (the first time I tried this). I just removed the battery ground before I came inside to type this, and I will go back out and try again later with the reset ECU.
I just put my car back to 100% stock other than the 3 1/2 turns on the wastegate actuator. That is, stock air filter, stock air box, stock intake tube, stock MAF, stock exhaust, stock cat converter, stock muffler, stock boost control, etc. My car has the first reflash but not the second reflash. It does NOT have a MBC or EBC, it is using the factory boost control setup controled by an untuned ECU (first factory reflash for idle has been applied).
Most free mods, when people do them, feel faster, but really aren't. The wastegate actuator mod is a whole crap load faster. I don't know how to describe it other than that. My particular butt dyno measures in crap loads, and it's at least one crap load faster. All I could do is sit in the drivers seat and think "holy crap", hence the units of measurements.
Originally, with the wastegate actuator in the factory position, boost on my autometer gauge would spike around 21 psi and drop back to about 15 psi at 7000 RPM. With the actuator turned in 3 1/2 turns, it now peaks around 24-25 psi and drops back to about 19-20 psi around 7000 RPM.
I did a bunch of WOT third / fourth gear pulls and got no check engine light at all. I drove around a little trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but I have not gotten one (yet?). I really need to spend more time trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but for today, being the first day, I can't comment on part throttle.
I would recommend this as a first mod, assuming future part throttle boost spikes do not generate a CEL. Only time will tell on that.
I did not reset the ECU this time (the first time I tried this). I just removed the battery ground before I came inside to type this, and I will go back out and try again later with the reset ECU.
Most free mods, when people do them, feel faster, but really aren't. The wastegate actuator mod is a whole crap load faster. I don't know how to describe it other than that. My particular butt dyno measures in crap loads, and it's at least one crap load faster. All I could do is sit in the drivers seat and think "holy crap", hence the units of measurements.
Originally, with the wastegate actuator in the factory position, boost on my autometer gauge would spike around 21 psi and drop back to about 15 psi at 7000 RPM. With the actuator turned in 3 1/2 turns, it now peaks around 24-25 psi and drops back to about 19-20 psi around 7000 RPM.
I did a bunch of WOT third / fourth gear pulls and got no check engine light at all. I drove around a little trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but I have not gotten one (yet?). I really need to spend more time trying to get boost to spike at part throttle and generate a CEL, but for today, being the first day, I can't comment on part throttle.
I would recommend this as a first mod, assuming future part throttle boost spikes do not generate a CEL. Only time will tell on that.
I did not reset the ECU this time (the first time I tried this). I just removed the battery ground before I came inside to type this, and I will go back out and try again later with the reset ECU.
I am going to wait to do this until I get my ECU tuned, but I think that it's probably safe. Many tuned Xs are running around 25 psi peak, and with how rich the factory tune is it's probably not leaning out enough to be dangerous. However, the stock tune does run a lot of timing up top already so it might be a good idea to unscrew the wastegate rod by one turn in the meantime.
Either way, I'm glad that someone messed with this because initially shiv at vishnu said that it didn't make any difference, but he probably didn't tighten it more than one turn. Looks like 3 and a half turns is the magic number. I would imagine that by lowering the WGDC mapping in the ecu when tuning that the spike can be lowered and then there are no dangers or drawbacks and a better taper can still be enjoyed. Good stuff evo stang, good stuff.
Either way, I'm glad that someone messed with this because initially shiv at vishnu said that it didn't make any difference, but he probably didn't tighten it more than one turn. Looks like 3 and a half turns is the magic number. I would imagine that by lowering the WGDC mapping in the ecu when tuning that the spike can be lowered and then there are no dangers or drawbacks and a better taper can still be enjoyed. Good stuff evo stang, good stuff.
Last edited by STi2EvoX; Jun 22, 2008 at 03:47 PM.







