I don't think the car will have a problem at 25 psi dropping to 19 psi either.

However, to define something as being "safe" implies it is fully tested in every possible scenario, and that is a very broad gaurantee. Virtually nothing is safe. I guess we could call the factory tune safe and all the OEM parts safe, because Mitsu will warranty them, but anything other than that and there is lots of inherent risk which nobody really can predict. I'm not particularly worried about running my car as it is, but I understand the risk, and am not worried about the conesquence. So to me, it's perfectly safe. To someone else, it may not be safe. It depends on the level of risk that the owner can tolerate.

I have not run this with the wideband yet, but before I did this, my wideband was telling me the car is still running 10:1 AFRs. Timing could be too high, but I didn't hear any pinging, although it is pretty hard to hear with the naked ear. I doubt AFRs are higher than 10:1, but I do need to retest.

 

It probably is safe right now, but a tune will ensure that everything is running properly. Either way, I think it's really cool that you are testing this because it confirms what CBRD had initially reported and your testing of the wastegate at different levels of pre load takes it a step further. I think that this is going to prove to be a very important part of an ecu tune, as this will allow more headroom with the wastegate duty cycle mapping and it will also allow tuners to see if the turbo is still efficient at these boost levels in the high rpm range.

Right now the X seems to continue to make power all the way to redline even as the boost drops; something that the 4g63 can't do. It is most likely because the head on this car is so damn good and because the car is more rev friendly now that it has a square bore and stroke. Between the two, you can run an assload of timing up top without detonation and keep cylinder pressures high to counteract the boost dropping. Gotta love the potential that the X is showing so far. Thanks again for the great info!

 

Ok, you got my attention. *Subscribed*

 

cbrd needs X software since we are modding the stock turbos now

cb

 

Does anybody have any tips for getting the cleaver back on the wastegate lever arm beside compressed air as I am unfortunately all out of that. Thanks

 

Just pull on it, really hard. Don't know what to tell you otherwise. Maybe you can clamp a pair of vice grips on the actuator rod and then pry on the vice grips with a screwdriver or something.

 

grab it further down near the wg cap.

cb

 

Got it back on. Thanks for the help guys. Definitely a noticeable difference on the butt dyno with 3.5 turns. I guess only time will tell if it is a reliable change or not.

 

wow, 3.5?

we only went one turn hee he

cb

 

How did you ultimately get it back on?


3.5 turns was worth 5-6 psi on my car across the board.

I drove it to work today, 80 miles round trip, and used a combination of cruise control and just regular driving. I spent long periods of time (as long as possible at least) in part throttle high boost situations, transient low boost to high boost part throttle, and lugging the car along at low RPMs letting boost come up to 15-ish psi in fifth at 2500 RPM part throttle, etc, all in an attempt to get the car to throw a cell. Never got a cell. Hope it continues like this.

 

evostang, I really appreciate for the "HOW TO" write up man. I have been waiting a while. I don't know if I am going to be going 3.5 turns...maybe one turn. I would really like to know if there is knock and what the dyno is showing. How hard is this Clevis to put back on the actuator? sheesh...I hope it isn't that hard. What difference does a MBC make in this situation because if the dyno CBRD posted originally is correct on one turn you could be running a crap load of power. I also wonder what my mods will react to this like.

I am guessing is that when you say "Stock 14 psi and 14.8psi on one turn etc..." you mean the boost psi that the waste gate opens to release some pressure off the turbo? correct?

Also, I now have the second refash...I hope this doesn't change much.

really thanks a lot.



What the crap man! ... what fuel made you lose 20 and what made you keep it? ...I'm usually running on 93 from shell or BP

 

Well .. just add my observations in ..

Tested this on 2 totally stock JDM SSTs .. mine and a friend's .. mine got boost cut .. his didn't .. so I think maybe (MAYBE) there's also variations in the amount of turns you get on the production cars too ..

 

our power numbers are back with better fuel, not quite what they were, but last time we did thr 280/281 pulls it was 52 degrees, now its consistently 80 degrees and higher, which is why we are down about 10whp... (plus the 19x10's are on it now)

cb

 

The clevis is pretty easy to put back on at ONE turn. At 3.5 turns, it requires alot of effort if you do it by hand. I used an air compressor to move the actuator, so it was very easy to put on at 3.5 turns. I haven't dyno'ed my car so I don't really know what it does. I bought a used MCB, but honestly, I don't think I'm even going to intstall it. At 3.5 turns, I perfectly happy. I'll probably keep the MBC for the future, just in case I need it, with the other items I have ordered.

You are correct with the 14 psi and the 14.8 psi, etc. Those are the pressures that will make the wastegate open.

 

So I spent some time messing around with this mod yesterday, here is what i found. I have an intake, exhaust, boost gauge and a mbc. I was getting a 23->17 boost curve with my mbc.

I first tried 1.5 turns, readjusted my mbc to maintain my stock boost level, and didn't really notice any difference. I tried again with 3 turns, then 3.5. At 3.5 turns, i was able to make an additional 1psi at redline, giving me a 23->18 boost curve. However, it seems to hold boost better the entire way through, and it seems faster all around. I wasn't able to make 19psi at redline like some of the others, however, I am in denver, at 5280 feet the stock x turbo is probably struggling for air.

Unfortunately, i had a couple problems on the way to work. My car started idling at 2k rpm, unless i had the ac on. (If i turned the ac on the car idled fine.) Once i turned the car off and back on this went away and hasn't come back. However, i'm fairly sure this is related to my cone air filter. The other issue was my SES light came on...I haven't checked the code but i didn't notice any gimp mode.

This mod is really easy to do, if i continue to have problems I can reverse it in about 20 min.