Indeed I will take as many precations as possible to make it a smooth install this weekend.

Here are some prep parts to help that turbo flow better. I never imagined it would take 3 hrs to wrap a tubular manifold but I wanted the runners to look clean and since the tubing was very close in some spots I had to really pull out all the stops to individually wrap all the runners and keep it nice and tight. I like the way the new DEI Titanium wrap has a carbon fiber look, just make sure to wear gloves when handling it as the particles are like fiber glass!

ETS Tubular Exhaust Manifold before wrap:





ETS Tubular Exhaust Manifold with DEI Titanium heat wrap (one 50'x1" roll and about 3' used out of a 15'x2" roll, rest went to the UR O2/DP)

 

That looks good! If you don't mind me asking, how much was the wrap?

Thanks,

Michael

 

wow...that does look good..def did take your time wrapping it lol

 

The 50' x 1" wrap was $34

The T3 Turbo shielding kit with 15' x 2" wrap was $160

I would have held out for an Evo vendor too but I was in a rush in case this last weekend was my install date. I got them from AtlanticSpeed.com which still ended up being a decent price once shipping was added in.

Yeah I figured do it once right and not have to worry about it looking rushed.

I'll be posting pics of the DEI turbo shield kit on the hotside of the GT30 turbo and DEI cool tape applied to the compressor side later this week.

 

God I wish i could find the thread..... But there was a guy on SpyderChat (Mr2 forum) who wrapped his manifold with similar stuff.... After it was wrapped he then sprayed it with a sealer of sorts....

Have you heard of this sealer? It supposed to make the wrap last longer and not be a prone to contamination from water ect.

 

Yes DEI recommends the Hi-Temp Silicone coating for their regular exhaust wrap, the new Titanium lineup doesn't need it though which is kinda nice.

 

nicely done wraps...

 

Ok guys I was doing some final prep work tonight on the car and decided to check the turbo over really well. I filled the center section with synthetic oil just to see how freely it spun, I know there is no oil pressure per say but it would still only spin for 3-4 seconds. Shaft play seems very little which is a good thing, the turbo itself spins freely but I can detect a very slight amount of friction that you can hear in a quiet room. What scares me is that it's not "even friction" but probably only in one spot as it rotates.

One other thing I noticed is that the mounting bolt that holds the rear coolant line to the compressor housing is threaded through the compressor outlet right into the path of boost. I'll be sure to add some RTV to those threads just in case and verify the bolt isn't extending into the path of the airflow. On the exhaust housing side one of the flange bolts that keeps the turbo together can be seen protruding into the exhaust path about 1 mm at an angle, still deciding if I should remove the bolt and trim it down a little. Now I'm starting to wonder how deep the other bolts go and if they are screwing up airflow that I can't see.

I can't remember if there was anything protecting the oil and coolant inlet/outlets during shipping but after blowing them out with some pressurized air I tightly wound some masking tape over the openings until I install the turbo. Of particular note be sure to keep any contaminents away from the turbo including wraps and shielding that has fiberglass like material in it. After handling the wraps on the manifold I quickly noticed the small fibers glistening in the light so quickly wore some latex gloves. They might be hard to see but are likely very bad for a ball bearing center section.

Anyone else check out their turbo, this could all be normal so I won't jump to conclusions just yet but figured I would see what the deal is.

 

I've noticed that the ball bearings make some noise when you spin them. Makes sense though as there are probably a dozen + little ***** rolling around. Something I observed recently was that the ball bearings seem to 'break-in'. Like you said, on a fresh turbo, it only spins 3-4 seconds.

I helped a friend pull off a turbo recently (getting engine built) off a 300ZXtt that was a Garrett ball bearing and that sucker spun much more freely. I remember playing with the turbo before going on this car and it also only spun 3-4 seconds. So I guess ball bearings need a little break-in time.

That's a good idea to add a little sealant to the water line screw to the compressor housing. I noticed this on pretty much all the Garrett turbos, the mounting bolts protrude into the gas passage on both the turbine and compressor sides. Pull any Garrett out of the box of any size (GT25-45 probably), and you'll notice the same thing. I guess that's the price of making the turbos relatively customiziable (being able to rotate the housings in any orientation and all the hybrids out there sticking like a GT30 center housing into GT28 size end housings, etc).

 

Yeah I'm not panicking just yet but I guess I'll be more at ease by Sunday! I applied some DEI Cool Tape last night to the compressor side of the turbo, I'll wrap the exhaust side with the heat shield tonight and start the tear down.

 

The housing is a little bigger than a T3 so you have to cut a slit for the mounting point to the engine and then stretch it a little but it looks like it will work out well. I would imagine that a Stock turbo housing would fit almost perfect based on the material that it was short by.

 

Hiboost, the heatwrap job looks awesome cause I am thinking of doing something similiar with the fp red setup. I can't wait to see how things go with the install. I hope everything works out for you.

Goodluck.

 

Nice job on the taping, that and the hood vent should help keep temps in check...

 

I should have it all buttoned up tonight, I'm about halfway done with the new parts assembly which is going much quicker than the tear down. Apparently the Exhaust side mounting bolt that I couldn't find never was re-installed on the car after the clutch job I had done at the local Mitsu. The O2 housing heat shield was also a real pain for me but soaking the other bolts with PB Blaster was enough to make them come out intact.

I'll have some first impressions after install Monday night and dyno results next weekend.

 

Thanks for the update.