Evo X bolt on Garrett GT30R turbos
For cruising around maybe not but if you had a glowing red Turbo and tubular manifold radiating heat at it constantly with no heat shielding you would see quite an additional load placed on your oil and coolant flowing through the turbo's center section. If it's relatively easy to keep the heat inside the hot parts and reflect them off the cold parts then why not do it. 
Quick update:There are quite a few typos and things I would recommend removing/installing in a different order from the Garrett instructions which I'll detail more when I have the time. I had to call it quits last night at 3 am as I had some fitment issues due to the wrap on the tubular manifold and turbo heat shielding I used, "mostly" self inflicted.
I say mostly because the center hole in the manifold has very little clearance between the stud in the head and the exhaust tubing, it actually just barely touches once you start torqing down everything, the studs are 25mm long and the clearance is 25mm after measuring with a micrometer. I ended up shaving that stud down 3mm and figured I was good to go, but then the clearance to reach that nut was zero from above and very difficult from below. Luckily I had a suspension wrench that happened to be 14mm that would allow me to turn it 60 degrees at a time but the clearance in there makes it a no go for a socket of course, all of the rest you could find an angle to reach the nuts. You also had to cut off the stock heat shield that is integrated into the stock exhaust manifold gasket or there would be no way it was installing.
Then after faithfully following the instructions that Garrett provided, I found the 4 bolts would not work from the manifold to the turbo especially with the wrap I had on. Luckily ETS provided 4 studs so I didn't panic, but apparently the turbo is sitting a few MM away from the block at some locations because the Turbo heat shield is making the turbo impossible to thread any bolts to the manifold. Studs also make it impossible to simply slide the turbo under the manifold without loosening it completely.
So tonight I'm going to have to pull out some of the padding in the heat shielding in the low clearance areas after tearing it apart, then start the threads on the manifold to turbo assembly first followed by the head to manifold nuts. THEN I can do the Oil lines and hopefully wrap this up. I'm not really angry just annoyed that I'm having the worst luck on this parts combo fitting with the heat wrap/shielding.
On the plus side it all looks really good in there, now I just need to get it all working in harmony!
BTW: No bolts or nuts broke after soaking them with PB Blaster, to the person that said you could remove the turbo with stock O2 housing attached I'm going to have to call BS since it was not coming out as a unit. After messing with it at different angles for 30 min I decided to just remove the 4 bolts and 1 nut with it facing me, luckily all came out with a hand wrench and some wacks with a hammer, AKA "poor man's air gun".
I say mostly because the center hole in the manifold has very little clearance between the stud in the head and the exhaust tubing, it actually just barely touches once you start torqing down everything, the studs are 25mm long and the clearance is 25mm after measuring with a micrometer. I ended up shaving that stud down 3mm and figured I was good to go, but then the clearance to reach that nut was zero from above and very difficult from below. Luckily I had a suspension wrench that happened to be 14mm that would allow me to turn it 60 degrees at a time but the clearance in there makes it a no go for a socket of course, all of the rest you could find an angle to reach the nuts. You also had to cut off the stock heat shield that is integrated into the stock exhaust manifold gasket or there would be no way it was installing.
Then after faithfully following the instructions that Garrett provided, I found the 4 bolts would not work from the manifold to the turbo especially with the wrap I had on. Luckily ETS provided 4 studs so I didn't panic, but apparently the turbo is sitting a few MM away from the block at some locations because the Turbo heat shield is making the turbo impossible to thread any bolts to the manifold. Studs also make it impossible to simply slide the turbo under the manifold without loosening it completely.
So tonight I'm going to have to pull out some of the padding in the heat shielding in the low clearance areas after tearing it apart, then start the threads on the manifold to turbo assembly first followed by the head to manifold nuts. THEN I can do the Oil lines and hopefully wrap this up. I'm not really angry just annoyed that I'm having the worst luck on this parts combo fitting with the heat wrap/shielding.
On the plus side it all looks really good in there, now I just need to get it all working in harmony!
BTW: No bolts or nuts broke after soaking them with PB Blaster, to the person that said you could remove the turbo with stock O2 housing attached I'm going to have to call BS since it was not coming out as a unit. After messing with it at different angles for 30 min I decided to just remove the 4 bolts and 1 nut with it facing me, luckily all came out with a hand wrench and some wacks with a hammer, AKA "poor man's air gun".
Yeah definitely not a fun job. We learned that you have to break up the turbo into smaller and smaller parts to be able to get it out even with no strut tower brace it will get hung up on the valve cover.
I'm waiting for your results Boostd4 before I install my 30r, i only want to do it once.
I also could not take the turbo off with the o2 still attached.
and i dont have a tuner yet..
I also could not take the turbo off with the o2 still attached.
and i dont have a tuner yet..
Thanks for the encouragement guys, it was all in which order you threaded and assembled the parts. Once I'm done I'll post suggestions on how to avoid the hassles I ran into.
Last edited by Hiboost; Jun 22, 2009 at 08:03 PM.
Feeling your pain man, stick with it though, your almost there
well what i can say is good luck man...hopefully it'll turn out good..
Well with very little sleep on tap for the last few days I can say the install so far is leak free. I went with 1/2 turn preload on the Forge WGA attached a line directly to the boost source to see what minimum boost is and I held 17 psi to redline. Looks like the Wastgate passage has plenty of flow in it's design as there was no boost creep. Granted the car is a little slower at low to mid rpm's at that boost level but... it feels very good above 6000 rpm and so far there is zero knock or other odd issues.
I tried to do some more datalogging on the way home from work and the stupid laptop is starting to lock up when I plug the Tactrix cable into the USB port. I'll try reloading EcuFlash and play with it some more tonight but without a good datalog I don't feel comfortable raising boost too much higher considering the past experiences. Likely 24 psi would be ok with the current tune since in the higher load cells I slowly richened up the mixture and reduced timing in preperation for this upgrade.
I did attempt to try a spoolup test at 2500 rpm's in 4th and within a second I popped a SES light and the car had 2k rpm rev at idle. After pulling over at a gas station I restarted the car and the rev hang was gone so I'm assuming it was some sort of limp mode. Stupid laptop was still giving me issues so I couldn't even read the code. The old turbo would build 20 psi of boost by 2500 so likely it was a bit upset that nothing much was happening with the big turbo... should be tunable I'm sure.
I also did notice some part throttle compressor surge as high as 3500 rpm's where as my stock turbo would only do that at 2500-3000 at part throttle. Seems like even with the anti-surge compressor inlet this is still going to effect this turbo, luckily no Surge at WOT though so I'll just have to adjust my driving habbits.
Once I get more datalogging in with boost raised I'll get some numbers flowing. There is a Dyno day at STM this weekend so I can do some final tweaking then and get solid numbers. I may schedule some 1:1 dyno time the following week if I need it.
Out with the old:
In with the new:
I tried to do some more datalogging on the way home from work and the stupid laptop is starting to lock up when I plug the Tactrix cable into the USB port. I'll try reloading EcuFlash and play with it some more tonight but without a good datalog I don't feel comfortable raising boost too much higher considering the past experiences. Likely 24 psi would be ok with the current tune since in the higher load cells I slowly richened up the mixture and reduced timing in preperation for this upgrade.
I did attempt to try a spoolup test at 2500 rpm's in 4th and within a second I popped a SES light and the car had 2k rpm rev at idle. After pulling over at a gas station I restarted the car and the rev hang was gone so I'm assuming it was some sort of limp mode. Stupid laptop was still giving me issues so I couldn't even read the code. The old turbo would build 20 psi of boost by 2500 so likely it was a bit upset that nothing much was happening with the big turbo... should be tunable I'm sure.
I also did notice some part throttle compressor surge as high as 3500 rpm's where as my stock turbo would only do that at 2500-3000 at part throttle. Seems like even with the anti-surge compressor inlet this is still going to effect this turbo, luckily no Surge at WOT though so I'll just have to adjust my driving habbits.
Once I get more datalogging in with boost raised I'll get some numbers flowing. There is a Dyno day at STM this weekend so I can do some final tweaking then and get solid numbers. I may schedule some 1:1 dyno time the following week if I need it.
Out with the old:
In with the new:
Last edited by Hiboost; Jun 23, 2009 at 04:17 PM.