Turbo bolt/stud specs.
#1
Turbo bolt/stud specs.
Ive looked around and couldnt find any actual dimensions anywhere of these parts, was wondering if anyone knows the actual specs on:
1515A156 - exhaust outlet bracket bolt
MR224441 - stud O2-Turbo (think its M10 x 1.25? x 40mm?)
Little backstory...
I drive an Evo X MR 2014,
Im planning to do a dp install and i just want to be sure before i get in there.
I bought a used depo dp from someone and after extracting a broken heatshield bolt, pulling a stud out from bottom of bellmouth and retapping one of the heat shield bolt holes, now ive measured and found that the stud i removed from the depo dp is M10 x 1.50 as well as the hole on the top end of the dp bellmouth, both same M10x1.50.
Are the mouting spots on the turbo this 1.5 size or im thinking that this dp has possibly been modified to the 1.5 for some reason.
If this is the case, im thinking i may need to either change the holes on the turbo to 1.5 or likely much easier change the dp back to 1.25. Helicoil kit necessary if just changing pitch but still staying M10?
Any info greatly appreciated, thanks!
1515A156 - exhaust outlet bracket bolt
MR224441 - stud O2-Turbo (think its M10 x 1.25? x 40mm?)
Little backstory...
I drive an Evo X MR 2014,
Im planning to do a dp install and i just want to be sure before i get in there.
I bought a used depo dp from someone and after extracting a broken heatshield bolt, pulling a stud out from bottom of bellmouth and retapping one of the heat shield bolt holes, now ive measured and found that the stud i removed from the depo dp is M10 x 1.50 as well as the hole on the top end of the dp bellmouth, both same M10x1.50.
Are the mouting spots on the turbo this 1.5 size or im thinking that this dp has possibly been modified to the 1.5 for some reason.
If this is the case, im thinking i may need to either change the holes on the turbo to 1.5 or likely much easier change the dp back to 1.25. Helicoil kit necessary if just changing pitch but still staying M10?
Any info greatly appreciated, thanks!
#2
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
All the O2 housing bolts should be 10x1.25.
You don't need to use the mounting bracket, just throw it away. The X turbo has 3 mount + it's bolted to the manifold LOL. So, ditching the bracket for the O2 housing isn't gonna hurt anything. Most down pipes don't have a bolt hole for it.
The hole that is for the stud to bolt the DP to the turbo can be 10x1.50. The stud is probably 10x1.5 on one side and 10x1.25 on the other.
You don't need to use the mounting bracket, just throw it away. The X turbo has 3 mount + it's bolted to the manifold LOL. So, ditching the bracket for the O2 housing isn't gonna hurt anything. Most down pipes don't have a bolt hole for it.
The hole that is for the stud to bolt the DP to the turbo can be 10x1.50. The stud is probably 10x1.5 on one side and 10x1.25 on the other.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Aug 24, 2017 at 11:46 AM.
#3
Ok great so youre saying that i dont need to reuse 1515A156 at all? perfect
and nope the stud is definitely 10x1.5 on both sides. though i guess i didnt think about the fact that the stud hole on the turbo side is just that, a hole with no threads.
im not sure on the strength/grade of the stud that came in the used dp, also one side of the threads is pretty shot so i definitely wont be using that one for the install.
would a bolt be fine to use going through the turbo side first then bolting into the dp or should i just get a new 10x1.5 stud/nut combo?
i ask because i currently have a 12.9 grade 10x1.5 socket cap screw and would be nice if i could use that high grade metal instead of some crappy stud or having to search for anew high quality stud
thanks for your input!
and nope the stud is definitely 10x1.5 on both sides. though i guess i didnt think about the fact that the stud hole on the turbo side is just that, a hole with no threads.
im not sure on the strength/grade of the stud that came in the used dp, also one side of the threads is pretty shot so i definitely wont be using that one for the install.
would a bolt be fine to use going through the turbo side first then bolting into the dp or should i just get a new 10x1.5 stud/nut combo?
i ask because i currently have a 12.9 grade 10x1.5 socket cap screw and would be nice if i could use that high grade metal instead of some crappy stud or having to search for anew high quality stud
thanks for your input!
#4
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Need a stud. You can't really get a bolt in through that location. Get an OEM stud/nut, then helicoil the DP with a 10x1.25 helicoil. That's what I would do.
#5
alright guess ill retain stock stud/nut, just was trying to stay away from buying a new stud, maybe i can just reuse the stock bolt/nut on it now as I only have 25k miles?
just afraid if i go in without an extra nut/stud and they are seized or snap that ill be stuck without a car
do u know the pn# for the nut on that stud?
i found MD132930 but mitsuparts.net says this isnt a part so maybe i have the wrong pn.
just afraid if i go in without an extra nut/stud and they are seized or snap that ill be stuck without a car
do u know the pn# for the nut on that stud?
i found MD132930 but mitsuparts.net says this isnt a part so maybe i have the wrong pn.
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
STM (street tuned motorsports) can get you what you need.
Or, you can get a 10x1.5 stud from a hardware store, and use a 10x1.5 nut.
Or, you can get a 10x1.5 stud from a hardware store, and use a 10x1.5 nut.
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blackmambe_evo7 (Aug 24, 2017)
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
If you don't have a tap and die set already consider getting one. You can fix up threads very effectively assuming the fastener isn't already overstretched and about to snap. That said getting new OEM fasteners and using torque specs with anti-seize goes a long way to making it serviceable down the road without having nightmares trying to loosen nuts and bolts without snapping.
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