not if the tuner didn't tell the ecu to do so

I think some tuners overlook at that aspect all together and just tune for WoT pulls , and forget about load and cruise values with the added hp/tq the car has.

 

The above point is too often over-looked, IMO. Tip-in knock can be a seriously problem on turbo cars with a large-volume intake path (which can delay when a sudden increase in air-flow measured at the OE-location MAF actually reaches the engine). A great tune for WOT pulls and/or drag-racing can actually be terrible for autocrossing, for example. A good tuner will ask you what you're after before tuning the car.

 

Golden advice to anyone reading.

I went to a local meet this past week. Someone questioned why my first tune on my X was a road tune and not a dyno tune. I joked and pointed out I drive on roads, not on dynos. However, it was because of this exact point. I daily my X, and although I can see how a dyno can allow maximum power extraction, and can simulate cruise. It's nice that my tuner was actually sitting in the car while I was driving and could feel how I roll-in to throttle and what the logs look like when I engine-brake, etc.

 

Since I'm on a roll (as it were), one other issue to keep in mind when getting a tune for something like autocrossing is whether you left-foot brake. Even if this seems counter to what I wrote a few minutes ago, if you left-foot brake, you can actually get away with a more drag-racing oriented tune, since there isn't such a sudden jump in MAF-measured air-flow at corner exit.

On the flip side (again, as it were), since this thread is supposed to be about blowing engines, please note that left-foot braking (for boost) is one the best ways to end up producing a lot of torque at a low RPM. And that, from what I understand, is the best way to bend a rod.

The upshot of all this is just one more reason to never stomp on a pedal, whether it be the brake or the throttle. You squeeze pedals down and ease off them. Yeah, AWD and great ABS might make it possible for a stomper to turn in some decent times, but you're teaching yourself some really bad habits that will bite you later when you try to co-drive a Viper, for example. Ask me how I know.

 

Ok, thought that was the case. I remember reading up on the boost offset tables.

I see some dyno's start kinda high in the RPM range. I know guys like to do that so you don't see how bad they are off boost, ha ha. Probably missing potential boost spikes in the lower rpms when you do that though.

I know I typically start dyno runs down low to see what the tune is doing in all areas of the map. Maybe not every run but definitely a couple once the top end is dialed in. Yeah it's not the exact same as on the road but should be close enough to point out a potential problem with over boosting down low.

 

They have the Evo back in their showroom. I saw it there a few days ago. I didn't go look at it and it is not posted on their site so I don't know how much they are asking for it. But just beware. I bet they will not tell anyone that looks at it about what happened. Greg Coats in Louisville Ky. Stay away.

 

putting 2 and 2 together, maybe more evo x (and all evo owners) should run a hybrid setup: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...cs-hybrid.html

seems like u can have the benefits of an mbc while tuning down the boost, and thus low end torque) by using the ebcs?

 

As much fun as the low end torque spike is when stock and lower power it would be annoying / dangerous at higher power. I'd rather have it spool as quick as possible but not surge. Just hit and hold my set PSI.

Anyone running a standalone EBC like the AVC-R? Just seems like an MBC and an EBC working together is a little convoluted. Worked well in that guy's case though.

 

I've got a 9, but I've run both MBC and EBCS separately, and I'm gonna give this hybrid setup a try. EBCS definitely spooled slower than an MBC - it's like you want the response and "hard-line" upper limit of an MBC, but you want the adjustability/tunability of the EBCS - particularly for high load instances. I'll see if it makes any difference.

 

Aren't 9s pure MAF-based, while Xs are a weird combination of MAF and speed-density, making the comparison apples to fruit salad?

 

but the link I posted was a X using the combo, albeit from 2010

anyway, just a thought i had.

 

Gotcha, let us know how it goes!

 

"more proof you don't understand, tuning requires training and capital investment. It takes time to do it well and risks destroying your engine."

Precisely this, tuning is incredibly complex and with a brief understanding of it, you'd quickly learn just how complex it really is. You want to modify your car, pay to play. $225 an hour is reasonable for a very skillful art that combines technical and automotive know-how on top of performance fundamentals to create a quality service.

 

I got a something to add/ask. I recently traded in my 09 Ralliart which I had for about 4 years. I modded that so much, and all throughout I made sure it was tuned correctly. I loved it. But I wanted an evo x. So got a new one from the dealership ship in September . A 2014 evo x gsr they even included a stage 3 into my financing. I was so content with the deal. Till about a few weeks ago the engine blew with 2300 miles on the car. The car jerked while accelerating inbetween 4k and 5k rpms and then I smelt oil and the car came to a stop. Now they are denying warranty on the car because of the parts, am I wrong to be upset with this? Should they cover it? Would it be pointless to lawyer up? If I would have known this would have happened I would have got the car stock. Any input would be helpful.

 

We'll probably need to know more information. What is stage 3 exactly? Who installed the parts?