Aem failsafe vs aem uego
Aem failsafe vs aem uego
So just wanted to make sure I got this right, the failsafe is basically a boost gauge / AFR gauge in 1 which you can log for up to 3 hours etc etc? and Uego is obviously just a regular wideband with nothing special for logging purposes etc... If I was to go with the tactix cable and evo scan would I really want the failsafe though as I can log on the laptop?
I've tried this with the AEM UEGO in the 8/9's with 4 different formulas I found online, but none of them read correctly. I know this is for an X, but does yours read correctly?
Travis
I can tell you that the fail safe is a PAIN IN THE *** TO INSTALL...
I managed to hook up the AFR/Boost and Uego.. can't figure out how to hook up the fail safe.. so i just left it.. LOL..
talked to a few AEM fail safe owners.. all of them did the same thing, left the fail safe uninstalled..
I managed to hook up the AFR/Boost and Uego.. can't figure out how to hook up the fail safe.. so i just left it.. LOL..
talked to a few AEM fail safe owners.. all of them did the same thing, left the fail safe uninstalled..
No different than installing a boost gauge and a wide band. Except both gauges are combined so only 1 power and ground for both.
When we had Motovicity's Subaru on Cobb, I didn't really have anything to run the failsafe output to, but I didn't want to waste the feature so I just ran it to the glove compartment light. lol One could get creative with that output if desired.
If you're on a stock ECU and boost control, it's going to be a challenge to make the failsafe feature useful. But no one said you have to. Even without using the failsafe output, it's still 2 gauges in 1 + a datalogger.
When we had Motovicity's Subaru on Cobb, I didn't really have anything to run the failsafe output to, but I didn't want to waste the feature so I just ran it to the glove compartment light. lol One could get creative with that output if desired.
If you're on a stock ECU and boost control, it's going to be a challenge to make the failsafe feature useful. But no one said you have to. Even without using the failsafe output, it's still 2 gauges in 1 + a datalogger.
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I've had the failsafe for awhile now, it's actual failsafe feature does baffle me though. I tried to do research on the subject, and there's not too much information that I can utilize. The radio option does sound interesting. I might have to try to destroy my radio one weekend.
I was about to buy the aem v2 w/m but without the failsafe. I also make some research to find any other ways as failsafe but there aren't any information.
Radio and glove compartment light thought are the first things I ever read....lol...
Radio and glove compartment light thought are the first things I ever read....lol...
Think of it like this: the failsafe output is just a 0-5V on/off switch. You set the on/off thresholds in the Failsafe software. Whatever the switch turns on/off is entirely up to you. It's not indended to be specific to any one car or device.
So for example, if you were running a stand-alone ECU (like a AEM EMS), you would run the failsafe output to a 0-5V input on the ECU. When that ECU input sees 5V, you set it to trigger a retarded (NOS) timing table that you would have set up.
Or, you could set that ECU input up to trigger a boost trim map (with no boost) when it sees 5V. Or fuel cut. Or ignition cut.
Or, with some stand-alone boost controllers, you could directly trigger a solenoid to open the WG.
Or, you could power your own warning light on the dash or cluster.
Or, you can turn the glove box light on & off. lol
I hope you can see where I'm going with this. What it does is entirely up to you.
So for example, if you were running a stand-alone ECU (like a AEM EMS), you would run the failsafe output to a 0-5V input on the ECU. When that ECU input sees 5V, you set it to trigger a retarded (NOS) timing table that you would have set up.
Or, you could set that ECU input up to trigger a boost trim map (with no boost) when it sees 5V. Or fuel cut. Or ignition cut.
Or, with some stand-alone boost controllers, you could directly trigger a solenoid to open the WG.
Or, you could power your own warning light on the dash or cluster.
Or, you can turn the glove box light on & off. lol
I hope you can see where I'm going with this. What it does is entirely up to you.
Last edited by Scott@HKSUSA; May 1, 2014 at 10:44 AM.
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