It doesn't matter if whater gets sucked in. Think of water injection, that doesn't hurt anything so neither will a little rain water.

 

uhhh what. Ok do this for me turn your car on and drive in the rain with no hood on and the cone filter just out there and let me know if your car will still be running.

 

Water isnt death for a motor under the right circumstances. With your motor on small amounts of water merely turn to steam. Now if you hold a water hose on the filter you may have a different problem. But small amounts of water arent going to hurt anything unless the car isn't on and water is allowed to hang out in the motor. I used to pour small amounts of water into my Chevy 350 (when running) to clean carbon buildup. Sounds dumb, buts its perfectly ok. The water turns into steam almost immediately and cycles itself thru. I guess maybe my SBC350 was a much tougher animal than any of these "tuner" motors.

PS - FYI, when a body-shop/dealer "details" your car they pressure wash your motor(GASP!). And it may or MAY NOT be running at the time! General rule of thumb is to have it running tho, and all will be fine.

 

ill join the spinning 10mm bolts club. i cant get this damn box to seperate from the maf. and i dont feel like drilling.

Arg!

 

If you can figure out a non drilling method, I'm sure the rest of the users on this site would benefit. Drilling fixed it for me very quickly, but then I had a nice hole I had to epoxy over.

One other thing you could try, which I ruled out on my own airbox, is to heat the plastic in that area and then pull the insert out. I design plastic products for a living (or at least I used to, now I just tell other people what to do) and one way to get the insert out is to heat the bolt to a relatively high temp. This will heat the insert as well, and melt the plastic holding the insert in, and then you could pull it out since the plastic around the undercut in the insert is all melted. A torch or open flame would be plenty of heat to drive up the temp, but it would also damage the plastic immediately around the bolt. A high capacity soldering iron would be the best bet to complete this process...

HOWEVER, I decided not to do this on my car, since the bolt also touches the plastic MAF housing, and would also melt the MAF housing. To me drilling was the least risky regarding damage.

Another method is to grind the head off the bolt, but then, one slip on the grinder and you damage plastic in an easily visible location. The bolt is only tight because it compresses a stainless steel sleeve between the bolt head and brass insert. Once that compression is gone from the sleeve, the bolt should just thread right out.

I guess the method that would work best, AND be most expensive, would be to take the assembly to a tooling shop that has an EDM machine, and physically burn the head off the bolt with an EDM electrode. The plastic is non conductive so there would not be any damage. Once the bolt head is gone, then it's simple. I would say you could do the same with a mill, but I don't see how to secure the plastic airbox on the bed of a mill without damaging it while cutting. Plan on spending a couple hundred dollars on these methods.

If you use a no drill method and do not remove the brass insert, you still have the same issue you have now, in that the brass insert will not hold any torque. You will still have to get the insert out and epoxy it back in position so it doesn't spin anymore. I guess though at this point it's possible to heat a bolt threaded into the insert and pull it out without drilling. Or possibly install a long threaded bolt into the insert, so that the bolt's end bottoms out on the plastic at the bottom of the insert. You may be able to put enough torque on the bolt at that point to pull the insert out by pushing on plastic at the bottom of the insert hole. However, depending on the strength of the plastic, you may just push a hole in the plastic, in which case you might as well have drilled.

I guess I'm rambling now. Sorry.

 

Or you can do like I did, the extreme redneck version and take a cutting wheel and just cut the damn bolts off at the flange, completely destroying the rear of the air box. But on the plus side, my Evo sounds cool now! Haha. It's ok, I work in Car Parts, getting a new airbox is no big deal down the road. Hello warranty again.

 

uhh you are a dumbass, this isn't what was being discussed at all. They were asking about driving with the hood ON and its raining or getting washed. This would be very minimal water on the filter. I in no way said anything about soaking the filter, of course that would clog flow. Don't be a douche

 

so whuts the best filter size to use?? 70mm , 75mm or 80 mm ??? and how do u disconnect the battery ??

 

80mm is a little over 3 inches. I got the filter at autozone that said "for 3 - 4inch intakes". It came with 3 couplings in it, but I used the smalest setting as thats what fits the Evo. To disconnect the battery open the trunk. Remove the right side plastic panel thats that has the little battery logo on it. Loosen the black negative cable, take it off and let it sit for a minute. Then put it back on, snug it down and viola!

 

appreciate the info man !...........................would it be bad if i started driving my evo with the cone filter as soon as i buy it or should i wait for the break in period ??

 

your car will explode....


jk it should be fine.

but for all you guys including myself that used the velocity stack filter...theres a new post from vendor that says and dyno maps showing huge...HUGE loss of power from velocity stack type filters.


I just got reflashed yesterday had autozone filter (VS) on and my car did feel a lot slower. haven't reset ECU yet after reflash but that vendor's posting is making me want to switch back to stock intake or buy a kn filter.

 

Oh reaalllllllllly? I couldnt tell if the car felt slower or if I was just getting used to it. But now that backs up my theory it slowed it down.

 

Well let me throw this into the mix. I had the SPectre with the open end but even that model has center cap section so maybe its better , But I switch them out to the K&N soild end 10inch on my car and there was no difference. I still have the surging up on the top end and no change in power.

just FYI. as always some cars maybe different than others.

 

As for the GST review of the cone filter and velocity stack ...
they don't report if they reset the ECU between switching the filters.
And multiple people have said that resetting the ECU made the world of difference when they switched to cone filter. I've asked them if they did reset the ECUs and just didn't say so in their write up ... but as well written as that write up was I figured they would have written an important step such as that.

Oh well the car is so new that the aftermarket still needs time to catch up. I installed the $20 cone filter few days ago and so far am seeing a better MPG with no noticeable lack in power or spool up time from turbo (I reset my ECU btw). If it turns out the cone filters with velocity stack (such as the one I purchased) is junk then I'm only out $20 and 15 mins of my time ... and once the aftermarket catches up and prices drop I can upgrade to a tested and more price reasonable alternative.

my $0.02

 

Thread in question that says the cone filter with open inlet will make the X slower.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=341608