20+ oil changes, never had any change in oil level, but YMMV.

I don't know if the new software changed, but the maintenance reminder in the 08 model was WORTHLESS. No matter when you reset it, it always goes off squarely in synch with the car's total mileage, every 5,000 miles. Annoying but "a teachable moment". I have a great memory though, so I've never let it get much over 3500 miles. EDIT: I read your results again, another "??" from the software guys at Mitsu.... Can only say, try to remember, or go to your local parts store, they generally have free stickers you can get to put on your windshield. How can you keep it in the stable and not running 3000 in 5 months? That's only 150 miles per week. I'd miss my joy if I kept it still that much.

 

Yup, its my DD and I only have about 70-90 miles per week (have some drive around town on weekends). But I guess its pretty close. I checked my oil level again this morning it was about 1/4" above the full mark. Do I have to drain it and redo everything? I tried to drain mine for about an hour and put all the 5qts of oil.

 

You're fine. All I'll say from this point out is to make sure you err on the side of over-changing. The turbo's heat causes oil to break down much faster than any car out there, esp since we have boost we want great lubrication in the turbo. When in doubt, change it out.

 

Yup, I'll follow the 5 mos rule since I won't reach that 3k early. Did drained out my oil to have it at the right level.

 

Anyone strip their drain plug?? I've been fighting with mine for the past hour and the thing wasnt getting tight for nothing. I finally give up and take it out to find its stripped to hell. I've always hand tightened. Never used power tools or a big torque wrench.

 

You say you have the wrong WIX model #, but you don't give the correct one... what is the correct one?

 

I have gotten goofed up on this myself. I have asked the guys at the counter for a filter and they give me the wrong one, it is too big. The one that works on my car is smaller. I have a feeling there may be a running switch on some model years, I'm not sure. But for 2010 Lancer Fram lists the 7317 (smaller) or 9688 (larger). For some reason my 2010 Evo MR-T takes the 7317.

http://www.framcatalog.com/Application.aspx?b=F

 

THAT really doesn't look right at all. Fram 7317 is for the non-turbo Lancers; both the 4B12 (2.4) and the 4B11 (non turbo) in their application list that 7317, and everywhere you look, every application guide, has the 9688 for the turbocharged engine.

This MR-T, it's not a second hand one, a GTS maybe, is it that's been doctored to look like an Evo???

 

Steve,

I realize that is what the Fram website says. That is the point of my post. Which do you think is more likely...

A) Frams website and possibly others are confused or unaware of changes in the filter PN's..
B) Mitsubishi sold me a counterfit Evo MR-T.. (Then borrowed it 3 times for their training video)

 

If you bought a new MR-T from a dealer, I'd talk to them about the filter for your car.

I did a bit of research, having done this in the past for my own edification, and your particular filter listed by "someone" seems to be 1.1" different in size of the filter from other 4B11T engine models. Not to mention other "differences".

Code: [Select]
Engine Wix Part Height Outer Diam. Gasket OD/ID/Thick Thread Max Flow Bypass Burst
4B11T 57092 2.944 3.243 2.475/2.173/0.233 M20x1.5 9-11GPM 14PSI 330PSI
4B11/12 51356 3.402 2.685 2.475/2.173/0.233 M20x1.5 9-11GPM 8-11PSI 363PSI



Fram was definitely NOT the sole source of my amazement -- you'll find that MITSUBISHI has fed the parts resellers with a cross reference that is specifying the 7317's design for normally aspirated 4B11's and the 9688 style for the turbo version.

What source was it that turned you on to the 7317 filter? Person, site, business? Have you personally seen the larger NOT fit on an engine with a Mitsubishi built 4B11T? Something doesn't add up, and I'm not one to accept anomolous "conclusions" quickly, lightly, or without some really really compelling side-story.

"some reason" isn't good 'nuff. I'm an engineer and I have OCD about facts and reasons

 

Just an experience guess, if you had problems with the larger one not fitting, it was just alignment to start the threads. I've had a lot of first-hand experience changing out the filter on the 4B11T It's not uncommon to have problems starting a thread when installing it 'blind'.

 

Steve,

Part bin lists both for the vehicle and makes a distinction on the VIN.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...ishi&md=Lancer

My methodology in this situation was complex..

Step 1: I went to Oreilly and asked for the filter that fit my car and they gave me the 9688 (or comparable I think it was a Wix brand filter actually)
Step 2: I went to do my first oil change and realized it was a different size then what was on there. (No I did not try and put it on anyway, just put it back in the box and went back to Oreilly with the filter that was on there in hand)
Step 3: Matched up the used filter with the PN for the filter that is supposedly wrong and went back home and used it and it works.

Perhaps they are interchangeable perhaps not, maybe you can research that.

 

Already did. They WILL fit, but the 9688 is bigger to provide more filter surface area and is rated for higher internal oil pump pressure. If you change often or don't abuse your engine, the 7317 will "work".

The thread pitch and size are the same, as are the gasket placement. If it were MY ride, I'd definitely find a reason why I couldn't fit the larger 9688 design -- to me would be worth dirtying up a $10 filter. Heck, if I had a normally aspirated 4B11, I'd STILL try to fit the larger filter on for the improved filtration it can handle.

Just trying to help, don't take anything I write as anything personal or an affront.

EDIT: "OBTW", I'm a fan of the Mobile1 Extended Life filters; they're $14 normally but often come with a combo sale price with the M1 5qt or 5.25qt jugs. M104 I believe is the filter and application guides cover your 2010 MR-T application. Not every manufacturer (i.e. Fram) has multiple form factors for the block's design for the filter. I am a high mileage driver as well as one who puts my car into multiple track weekends every year. 66,000+ and rolling strong.

 

Never had this problem myself, but witnessed fellow DIY'ers stripping the bolt or sometimes even having to replace the oil pan.

One important thing to note, you really want to change the "crush washer" for any drain or fill-plug when you re-install it. The washer will prevent you from over-tightening the bolt. This is also assuming you are using the recommended torque specs in the service manual.

 

You're SOOO right. But I got a question for you. How many of these oil changes have you done to your car? Geez, at 66,666 today (I loved seeing that on the odometer, I'm 2 orders of magnitude more evil than Lucifer), and changing it more often for track days, I swear I've changed it 20 or 25 times, due again and just did it in October last....

Being in my mid-forties and never paying someone for my oil changes, and being a high-mileage exurban dude, I've gotten more than my share of experience. Glad to have that on beaters, toyotas, fords, etc., than developing an expertise on something this nice.