Changing Oil... What Type.. Brand Matter?
Oil Doc seems very much to be a AMSOIL rep.
Not that it's bad or anything, just letting everyone know.
I asked AMS (not AMSOIL) what they recommended for the Modified Evo's(which most of us have), since they are a speed shop and build highly modified evo's- and it was AMSOIL 10w-40.
I believe I was also told not to try Extended Drain Intervals unless you have a Oil Analysis to show your oil is holding up.
Not that it's bad or anything, just letting everyone know.
I asked AMS (not AMSOIL) what they recommended for the Modified Evo's(which most of us have), since they are a speed shop and build highly modified evo's- and it was AMSOIL 10w-40.
I believe I was also told not to try Extended Drain Intervals unless you have a Oil Analysis to show your oil is holding up.
Thousands of man hours of R&D went into the manufacturing of our engines, and Mitsubishi's engineers undoubtedly spent a significant portion of those hours determining what products work best for our engines. So my viewpoint is that it is best to follow their recommendations, after all they know better that any of us what is best for the longevity of the 4g63.
Thousands of man hours of R&D went into the manufacturing of our engines, and Mitsubishi's engineers undoubtedly spent a significant portion of those hours determining what products work best for our engines. So my viewpoint is that it is best to follow their recommendations, after all they know better that any of us what is best for the longevity of the 4g63.
trans -redline is fine.
well so far oil doc hasnt provided any information to back up the whole royal purple is junk post. all he says is hes been doing this since '72 or something. what exactly have you been doing? id like to see some evidence supporting your statement.
also, for the whole lowest bidder thing. id like to see some proof on this also. ill take the word of the manufacturer whole build the car from nothing to tell me what fluids it should have in it. they obviously woudn't tell you to put in a crappy oil, because if it caused problems mitsubishi would be paying out of their pocket to fixed peoples motors and whatnot under warranty. im pretty sure motors cost more then oils, so they would be losing money. 10 years and 100,000 miles is an awful long time
also, for the whole lowest bidder thing. id like to see some proof on this also. ill take the word of the manufacturer whole build the car from nothing to tell me what fluids it should have in it. they obviously woudn't tell you to put in a crappy oil, because if it caused problems mitsubishi would be paying out of their pocket to fixed peoples motors and whatnot under warranty. im pretty sure motors cost more then oils, so they would be losing money. 10 years and 100,000 miles is an awful long time
Sounds like you want to turn this into a pissing match...
You have provided no info how good RP is. Let's see it.
I have been working with equipment and lubricating products since '72, what have you been doing since then ?
You don't believe in lowest bidder ? Are you really that naive ? That is the standard of any industry... The products only have to meet "minimum specifications" Most OEM's use 1-3 year bids, including Mits. Even Wal-Mart does that on their products including food items.
It is no big deal these days to make it out of warranty. But to make it far beyond warranty and to improve overall performance is the real key.
Most people agree that there is little difference between MotorCycle Oils and Automotive other than additives for the Clutch and Anti-Rust and corrosion Inhibitors. Would you agree with that statement ?
Doc
You have provided no info how good RP is. Let's see it.
I have been working with equipment and lubricating products since '72, what have you been doing since then ?
You don't believe in lowest bidder ? Are you really that naive ? That is the standard of any industry... The products only have to meet "minimum specifications" Most OEM's use 1-3 year bids, including Mits. Even Wal-Mart does that on their products including food items.
It is no big deal these days to make it out of warranty. But to make it far beyond warranty and to improve overall performance is the real key.
Most people agree that there is little difference between MotorCycle Oils and Automotive other than additives for the Clutch and Anti-Rust and corrosion Inhibitors. Would you agree with that statement ?
Doc
Lowest bidder doesnt always mean lower quality fyi, and unless there is some data that would cause me to deviate from the recommended oil that the manufacturer suggests, I am going to stick with Mobile1.
p.s. this is not a pissing constest, lets try to keep things informative and to the point.
p.s. this is not a pissing constest, lets try to keep things informative and to the point.
i asked was for you to show evidence to back your statements up.... which you still have not done....
im not the one arguing that RP is good oil, i just asked to see your proof of RP being such a bad oil.
what exactly does "working with equipment and lubricating products" mean? that could mean anything.... i guess i do the same since i work as a tech for hyundai. i work with cars and oil all day
all i am asking is to see hard evidence to back up your statements....
im not the one arguing that RP is good oil, i just asked to see your proof of RP being such a bad oil.
what exactly does "working with equipment and lubricating products" mean? that could mean anything.... i guess i do the same since i work as a tech for hyundai. i work with cars and oil all day
all i am asking is to see hard evidence to back up your statements....