Changing Oil... What Type.. Brand Matter?
More food for thought.... Pennzoil and Quaker State are the sme company.
I am sure things haven't changed over the years, Pennz was always the largest reclaimer of motor oil in the world.
Due to the law, even low grade Hydro-Cracked oils are allowed to call themselves synthetic.
I equate this to McDonald's.. "100% Pure Beef" but I think Wendy's advertised 75% more beef than McD's..... How do you get 75% more than 100% ? It is because beef is the only "Meat" product in there.... they don't count the fat,soy and fillers..
Even a PAO Synthetic, only has to have a minimum 30% PAO to call themselves 100% Synthetic.....
Be careful of Marketing Terms such as "Full" or "Fully" Synthetic... Shell has an oil on the market "Fully Synthetic" and when you find the MSDS, it states right on there 92-98.9% Petroleum Oil....
Doc
I am sure things haven't changed over the years, Pennz was always the largest reclaimer of motor oil in the world.
Due to the law, even low grade Hydro-Cracked oils are allowed to call themselves synthetic.
I equate this to McDonald's.. "100% Pure Beef" but I think Wendy's advertised 75% more beef than McD's..... How do you get 75% more than 100% ? It is because beef is the only "Meat" product in there.... they don't count the fat,soy and fillers..
Even a PAO Synthetic, only has to have a minimum 30% PAO to call themselves 100% Synthetic.....
Be careful of Marketing Terms such as "Full" or "Fully" Synthetic... Shell has an oil on the market "Fully Synthetic" and when you find the MSDS, it states right on there 92-98.9% Petroleum Oil....
Doc
The problem I am hearing about the Eneos Oil, on this Forum and others, is that you start to get some lifter rattle about 2500 miles or so...
Don't know about you, but for over $10.00 per qt for Eneos Oil, I'd much rather pay $7.25 per qt for a superior oil that will last many times that, and use a Superior filter as well.
Doc
Don't know about you, but for over $10.00 per qt for Eneos Oil, I'd much rather pay $7.25 per qt for a superior oil that will last many times that, and use a Superior filter as well.
Doc
I believe the only Mobil 1 that is PAO now is the Extended Performance 15,000
AMSOIL is PAO with Esters and is 100% Synthetic...
http://www.amsoil.com/msds/sso.pdf
Page 4 ..... lists Synthetic Base Stock
You will also notice if you look SSO up it is advertised as 100% Synthetic where other will say Synthetic, Full or Fully Synthetic... Funny how these terms seem to "imply" 100% Synthetic but are not even close.. Not that they are bad oils, but seem to be misleading in their marketing terms, even though it is perfectly legal,,
Doc
AMSOIL is PAO with Esters and is 100% Synthetic...
http://www.amsoil.com/msds/sso.pdf
Page 4 ..... lists Synthetic Base Stock
You will also notice if you look SSO up it is advertised as 100% Synthetic where other will say Synthetic, Full or Fully Synthetic... Funny how these terms seem to "imply" 100% Synthetic but are not even close.. Not that they are bad oils, but seem to be misleading in their marketing terms, even though it is perfectly legal,,
Doc
I'm not sold on that one yet. The MSDS sheet for Mobil 1 showed 10w-30 was synthetic base stock. I couldn't find a sheet for the EP to compare. However if you have somehting that contradicts this, we'd love to know!
That is the scuttlebutt going around.. the 15K EP is the only PAO today..
To qualify as a PAO Synthetic, all you need is 30% PAO Base Stock. Although Mobil 1 is a very good oil, it has been common knowledge for years that Mobil uses a high amount of "carrier oil" (petroleum), to avoid the expense of the chemicals needed to keep the additives blended within the PAO Stock.
The best Synthetics on the market today will use PAO Stock with Esters. These have proven to be the best performers overall.
Regardless of the composition of the oil, whether petroleum, Hydro-Cracked or Synthetics, it is all in the performance of the oil. And the best way to tell how an oil performs is through Oil Analysis.
Doc
To qualify as a PAO Synthetic, all you need is 30% PAO Base Stock. Although Mobil 1 is a very good oil, it has been common knowledge for years that Mobil uses a high amount of "carrier oil" (petroleum), to avoid the expense of the chemicals needed to keep the additives blended within the PAO Stock.
The best Synthetics on the market today will use PAO Stock with Esters. These have proven to be the best performers overall.
Regardless of the composition of the oil, whether petroleum, Hydro-Cracked or Synthetics, it is all in the performance of the oil. And the best way to tell how an oil performs is through Oil Analysis.
Doc
if anybody interested about my opinion:
i'm using the factory recommandations ,so Mobil 1 ,but the extended life. Change oil every 3000 miles. Mitshu OEM filter.
NOW, when i go the track i change the oil before i go on track to 15-50 mobil 1 extended full syntetic.
when i came off the track immidiatly change the oil back to the regular one.
so here is my opinion: unless you using the car as a DD, no need to change the oil brand or type .Keep it as a factory recommend. You will not get any benefit from to change the oil to the other ones. You just spending extra money to say i got this and that...
Now when you racing, depend what you doing ,you can start play with the oil. But that is only true when you are on the Track.
i'm using the factory recommandations ,so Mobil 1 ,but the extended life. Change oil every 3000 miles. Mitshu OEM filter.
NOW, when i go the track i change the oil before i go on track to 15-50 mobil 1 extended full syntetic.
when i came off the track immidiatly change the oil back to the regular one.
so here is my opinion: unless you using the car as a DD, no need to change the oil brand or type .Keep it as a factory recommend. You will not get any benefit from to change the oil to the other ones. You just spending extra money to say i got this and that...
Now when you racing, depend what you doing ,you can start play with the oil. But that is only true when you are on the Track.
if anybody interested about my opinion:
i'm using the factory recommandations ,so Mobil 1 ,but the extended life. Change oil every 3000 miles. Mitshu OEM filter.
NOW, when i go the track i change the oil before i go on track to 15-50 mobil 1 extended full syntetic.
when i came off the track immidiatly change the oil back to the regular one.
so here is my opinion: unless you using the car as a DD, no need to change the oil brand or type .Keep it as a factory recommend. You will not get any benefit from to change the oil to the other ones. You just spending extra money to say i got this and that...
Now when you racing, depend what you doing ,you can start play with the oil. But that is only true when you are on the Track.
i'm using the factory recommandations ,so Mobil 1 ,but the extended life. Change oil every 3000 miles. Mitshu OEM filter.
NOW, when i go the track i change the oil before i go on track to 15-50 mobil 1 extended full syntetic.
when i came off the track immidiatly change the oil back to the regular one.
so here is my opinion: unless you using the car as a DD, no need to change the oil brand or type .Keep it as a factory recommend. You will not get any benefit from to change the oil to the other ones. You just spending extra money to say i got this and that...
Now when you racing, depend what you doing ,you can start play with the oil. But that is only true when you are on the Track.
Is that Mitsu recommends this oil with this filter- to cover it's own a$$ for 36k miles.
After that they really don't care if it breaks, IMO.
If the car had a good 100k warranty, well then factory recommended stuff will last or be covered for those 100k, so I wouldn't worry. You see my point of view?
All in all, it's up to you. I've read and read and made my choice to switch from M1 to AMSOIL, but that was with all my own research, for MY car.
My opinion,
Is that Mitsu recommends this oil with this filter- to cover it's own a$$ for 36k miles.
After that they really don't care if it breaks, IMO.
If the car had a good 100k warranty, well then factory recommended stuff will last or be covered for those 100k, so I wouldn't worry. You see my point of view?
All in all, it's up to you. I've read and read and made my choice to switch from M1 to AMSOIL, but that was with all my own research, for MY car.
Is that Mitsu recommends this oil with this filter- to cover it's own a$$ for 36k miles.
After that they really don't care if it breaks, IMO.
If the car had a good 100k warranty, well then factory recommended stuff will last or be covered for those 100k, so I wouldn't worry. You see my point of view?
All in all, it's up to you. I've read and read and made my choice to switch from M1 to AMSOIL, but that was with all my own research, for MY car.
I hope people realize that all Mits does is put out a Spec for bid and the lowest bidder gets it..whether for oil or filters.. Mobil comes in to the OEM's with a low ball price including their oil in print for advertising. They then make their profits from the oil sold at the Retail level. Is Mobil 1 a good oil ? Yes it is.... Is Mobil 1 the best all around performer ? No.
That car/any car could/should make it out of a 3/36 warranty even with lack of maintenance. If everything the factory does was so great, why would everyone be spending thousands of $$$ to "make it better" ?
Doc