COBB EVO AccessPORT released and DYNO results
Just want to be clear that when I said knock sums of 25, I did not mean a stock motor with a stock tune. The most likely reason for knock sums this high is a bad tune (or really bad gas). A knock sum of 10 is about as much as one would expect to see on a stock motor with a stock tune.
Also, just want to be clear that the ECU can pull timing at knock sums of 1-3 as well. The ECU handles knock sums higher than 3 counts differently though.
Also, just want to be clear that the ECU can pull timing at knock sums of 1-3 as well. The ECU handles knock sums higher than 3 counts differently though.
What you have stated is mostly true. Pretty much every stock Evo we have put on our dyno, knocks. Some detonation events have been so severe, they show up as a huge power spike on the dyno plot. The kind of detonation that would blow a Subaru EJ motor apart. Mitsubishi must be riding on the strength of the 4G63 given how aggressive the stock timing is. Knock sum of 10 on a stock Evo tune, try 25+ in some instances. Results will vary from region to region given gas types, car and climate.
Evo's tend to very greatly from car to car in how they run. It's amazing how well a tune can run on car of a specific year car, and poorly on another car of the same year. This is given both Evo's are void of the typical mechanical gremlins.
ROB or Christian---
Please view in this thread post #253-254 from last page...what should be done?
would just getting custom tuned at this point be the only way to combat this?
Also, the "BOGGING" thread could use a little attention...there is more talk on the varying "concerning" cases over there.
Thanks guys
Please view in this thread post #253-254 from last page...what should be done?
would just getting custom tuned at this point be the only way to combat this?
Also, the "BOGGING" thread could use a little attention...there is more talk on the varying "concerning" cases over there.
Thanks guys
Or potential mechanical issues.
A decent tune for your vehicle should have low knock counts as you said. 3/4 throttle will be running though a different portions of the map and hence running different timing and fueling, although should also be low on the knock counts.
Evo's really like boost. You should be fine running 23psi as long as your knock counts are in check. What you have described is nothing to worry about.
I can't wait to see what Steven can do with you car.
would a good tune = maybe only 1-2-3 knocks across the rev range......and doesn't knock happen differently for maybe WOT vs. 3/4 throttle?
I generally see knocks of 3-4 at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle around 2500-4500 rpm usually 3rd to 5th gear.
at WOT I seem to never notice any knocks.....but I am concerned on this issue as now with the AP stage 2 91oct map that is supposed to only hit 21.5psi is now hitting 23psi.......obviously it is colder now....but since there is no way to tune yet with the AP I guess all I can do is not go into boost as from 3rd-5th gear since it is boosting higher
I generally see knocks of 3-4 at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle around 2500-4500 rpm usually 3rd to 5th gear.
at WOT I seem to never notice any knocks.....but I am concerned on this issue as now with the AP stage 2 91oct map that is supposed to only hit 21.5psi is now hitting 23psi.......obviously it is colder now....but since there is no way to tune yet with the AP I guess all I can do is not go into boost as from 3rd-5th gear since it is boosting higher

Evo's really like boost. You should be fine running 23psi as long as your knock counts are in check. What you have described is nothing to worry about.
I can't wait to see what Steven can do with you car.
Rob--
Thanks for your answer.
Just to clarify, I have never seen anything higher than a 4 knock....and never at WOT...only during 1/2 or 3/4 throttle at less than 5000rpm.
And since the car has hit higher boost at WOT recently I have not seen any knock...so like you said everything is/should be fine.
I was only concerned about this because of what THE EVOLUTIONER posted about the code and fuel cut issue.
I agree I can't wait for Stephen to work his PRO-TUNE magic on my car
Thanks for your answer.
Just to clarify, I have never seen anything higher than a 4 knock....and never at WOT...only during 1/2 or 3/4 throttle at less than 5000rpm.
And since the car has hit higher boost at WOT recently I have not seen any knock...so like you said everything is/should be fine.
I was only concerned about this because of what THE EVOLUTIONER posted about the code and fuel cut issue.
I agree I can't wait for Stephen to work his PRO-TUNE magic on my car
This thread makes me laugh.
If you want me to start a new thread I will delete this one and post it elsewhere, here goes:
I have a Subaru, I have an AP (vs#1, but I know what vs#2 adds) and I self tune with ST (street tuner).
I also have used and continue to use open source tuning.
IMO for a DD re-mapping the stock ECU is the only way to go, I don't think too many people will argue with that.
The odd person here doesn't seem to understand that any tool that re-maps the stock ECU (assuming both EM solutions have access to the same tables) has the same power potential. The rest is in the hands of the tuner.
Here is why I have an AP, and why I would buy one again if I did it all over again:
RT maps! Real Time Maps!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not having to overwrite your ECU every time you or your tuner wants to make a change. I don't know why people seem to miss this point. Talk to any suby owner that knows about tuning and they will all say this is the biggest advantage of COBBs stuff. For myself, if open source tuning had RT ability I may have decided not to buy COBB's stuff. But then I wouldn't want to always have a laptop in my car either. I can go on a trip across North America and easily flash my non-alky map to my car while I am driving! All with a little hand-held device. Of course vs #2 has a lot more cool bells and whistles.
Once ST comes out for you guys you will stat to appreciate my point even better. You take your car out and tune for a little while (I tune almost everyday while I drive to work, well not while I drive, but I log, change my tune at work, then flash back to my car) and it is just soooooo much better. To make changes w/o waiting for it to be flashed to the car, just having it change as you make changes on the laptop is pretty cool. Easier on your ECU as well (although I have yet to hear of someone overflashing their ECU).
For example, I will tune my MAF curve. I can highlight a particular cell and change the value up or down a small amount and within about 1 sec it is on the ECU.
Now for 90% of you guys. Just buy the AP, go to stage1 enjoy the car for about a week, then get some pipes and go to stage2. Real easy. That is what most people will do, and it works very good for that.
If you want me to start a new thread I will delete this one and post it elsewhere, here goes:
I have a Subaru, I have an AP (vs#1, but I know what vs#2 adds) and I self tune with ST (street tuner).
I also have used and continue to use open source tuning.
IMO for a DD re-mapping the stock ECU is the only way to go, I don't think too many people will argue with that.
The odd person here doesn't seem to understand that any tool that re-maps the stock ECU (assuming both EM solutions have access to the same tables) has the same power potential. The rest is in the hands of the tuner.
Here is why I have an AP, and why I would buy one again if I did it all over again:
RT maps! Real Time Maps!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not having to overwrite your ECU every time you or your tuner wants to make a change. I don't know why people seem to miss this point. Talk to any suby owner that knows about tuning and they will all say this is the biggest advantage of COBBs stuff. For myself, if open source tuning had RT ability I may have decided not to buy COBB's stuff. But then I wouldn't want to always have a laptop in my car either. I can go on a trip across North America and easily flash my non-alky map to my car while I am driving! All with a little hand-held device. Of course vs #2 has a lot more cool bells and whistles.
Once ST comes out for you guys you will stat to appreciate my point even better. You take your car out and tune for a little while (I tune almost everyday while I drive to work, well not while I drive, but I log, change my tune at work, then flash back to my car) and it is just soooooo much better. To make changes w/o waiting for it to be flashed to the car, just having it change as you make changes on the laptop is pretty cool. Easier on your ECU as well (although I have yet to hear of someone overflashing their ECU).
For example, I will tune my MAF curve. I can highlight a particular cell and change the value up or down a small amount and within about 1 sec it is on the ECU.
Now for 90% of you guys. Just buy the AP, go to stage1 enjoy the car for about a week, then get some pipes and go to stage2. Real easy. That is what most people will do, and it works very good for that.
rob@cobb- I assume knock counts seen while cruising is from a hyper sensitive knock sensor. Kind of similar to the subarus showing knock while idling, lol.
cpa5- I can't wait to get the car on the dyno either. I assume beta testing with Dynoflash and AMS should be done soon and the program will be released (any week now I'm told).
littlebluegt- agreed on the pro/con. The AccessPORT works great for those that want to drive stock and then upgrade down the road. Simply buy and exhaust, install it, change the map and you are ready to hit the road safely.
Stephen
www.iaperformance.com
cpa5- I can't wait to get the car on the dyno either. I assume beta testing with Dynoflash and AMS should be done soon and the program will be released (any week now I'm told).
littlebluegt- agreed on the pro/con. The AccessPORT works great for those that want to drive stock and then upgrade down the road. Simply buy and exhaust, install it, change the map and you are ready to hit the road safely.
Stephen
www.iaperformance.com
rob@cobb- I assume knock counts seen while cruising is from a hyper sensitive knock sensor. Kind of similar to the subarus showing knock while idling, lol.
cpa5- I can't wait to get the car on the dyno either. I assume beta testing with Dynoflash and AMS should be done soon and the program will be released (any week now I'm told).
littlebluegt- agreed on the pro/con. The AccessPORT works great for those that want to drive stock and then upgrade down the road. Simply buy and exhaust, install it, change the map and you are ready to hit the road safely.
Stephen
www.iaperformance.com
cpa5- I can't wait to get the car on the dyno either. I assume beta testing with Dynoflash and AMS should be done soon and the program will be released (any week now I'm told).
littlebluegt- agreed on the pro/con. The AccessPORT works great for those that want to drive stock and then upgrade down the road. Simply buy and exhaust, install it, change the map and you are ready to hit the road safely.
Stephen
www.iaperformance.com
How's the slopes...you tuned in already
Stephen--
I thought this was interesting.......From Bryan at GST
"The evo boost control system is load target based and the stock solenoid is a 2-port bleed type.
When upgrading the pill, you use a pill with a smaller hole in it at the the turbo side of the "T" and keep the stock solenoid side pill, This smooths out the "pulses" from the solenoid. The reason for this is the stock boost control tables run at 100% duty cycle and the boost is controlled via error correction and load target. It can't run any more boost because it is already at 100% duty cycle, in the perfect conditions.
The smaller pill opening acts as more of a restriction, which allows more boost for the same amount of duty cycle as before. This allows the duty cycles to be brought down in the boost control tables and offers custom boost curves and levels.
Boost regulation is done by the error correction table and boost load tables, and if tuned well and tight, does a pretty good job keeping the boost in check.
While using the stock "boost load" curve, which means the stock boost system follows a different load curve than fuel and timing, the evo system can change boost depending on temp, sometimes not for the better.
To make the Evo boost control system to more of a target boost system, like the Subarus, you need to upgrade to the JDM MAP sensor which is a 3bar atmospheric sensor, where the stock Evo MAP sensor is 1bar or so atmospheric. So it cannot use it for boost control.
The COBB AP currently does not support the JDM MAP Sensor."
I thought this was interesting.......From Bryan at GST
"The evo boost control system is load target based and the stock solenoid is a 2-port bleed type.
When upgrading the pill, you use a pill with a smaller hole in it at the the turbo side of the "T" and keep the stock solenoid side pill, This smooths out the "pulses" from the solenoid. The reason for this is the stock boost control tables run at 100% duty cycle and the boost is controlled via error correction and load target. It can't run any more boost because it is already at 100% duty cycle, in the perfect conditions.
The smaller pill opening acts as more of a restriction, which allows more boost for the same amount of duty cycle as before. This allows the duty cycles to be brought down in the boost control tables and offers custom boost curves and levels.
Boost regulation is done by the error correction table and boost load tables, and if tuned well and tight, does a pretty good job keeping the boost in check.
While using the stock "boost load" curve, which means the stock boost system follows a different load curve than fuel and timing, the evo system can change boost depending on temp, sometimes not for the better.
To make the Evo boost control system to more of a target boost system, like the Subarus, you need to upgrade to the JDM MAP sensor which is a 3bar atmospheric sensor, where the stock Evo MAP sensor is 1bar or so atmospheric. So it cannot use it for boost control.
The COBB AP currently does not support the JDM MAP Sensor."
Last edited by CPA5; Dec 22, 2007 at 06:27 PM.



