My tuner and I are officially stumped and are looking for help. The current engine is a 2.3 shortblock with a cam'd/springed head.
This current tune is on WG pressure with only 2* requested. All the boost leaks have been found and corrected. The oil stick is trying to blow out like the engine is under a heavier load/boost.
The tuner (well known and respected on this forum) says that I should be seing at least 4-5* by 6000 rpm with about 10 more pounds of boost than I'm currently running.
More details:
Full bolt ons
BBK full turbo
1200 cc injectors
One Walboro
E85
Open for ideas. Thanks.

 

Bump for ideas. Thanks.

 

well let me add my 0.02, whens the last time you changed and or gapped your plugs? stock ignition or coil on plug? your afrs look good from log, although i noticed the higher in rpms you go the more load cells you hit, i was under the assumption that bbks once you hit higher rpms theyd have some taper to them a bit once you hit 6000ish? i also noticed your tps isnt reading 100% at wot, is the tps working properly? or is it put in the right position through ecuflash?? i also noticed your running 10 degrees of timing at 2500, what id recommend maybe have your tuner adjust the timing to say 7* then hes got more timing to play with once you hit higher rpms, which might help with the high knocksum counts your getting when you come onto full boost. Or maybe around the 3-4000 rpms range, have him richen up your afr a couple points... seeing as at 3000-3343 your in the 11s with only maybe 1 count of knock sum,but then 3468-4062 your in the 12s which is a bit lean might explain your higher knocksum count. so hopefully i helped, start with a fresh set of plugs, since your an 8, maybe some bpr8es one step colder, or some denso iw24 iridium one step colder...pm me back if you have more questions or post on this thread n ill do my best to help

 

Thanks for the response.
I just changed the plugs to two steps colder and have them gapped to .18. The old plugs fowled early on while beginning to tune. Not sure about the TPS. I just had the seals in the throttlebody replaced so I wonder if I messed something up when reinstalling.

 

well that would make sense man, because to replace the throttle body seals, you have to remove the throttle position sensor...now normally once seals are replaced you can activate a program in ecuflash, to put the tps sensor at idle back to the correct position...but from what u were sayin u went two steps colder then stock....wow how much boost u runnin...even on an fp red boostin 27 psi im still only running one step colder.

 

I'm only running WG pressure right now. We went to steps colder to try to fix the tuning issue....

 

1. You need to be at 100% throttle to do a log pull and be accurate
2. Your knocking more then Michael Jackson at a boy scout sleepover

Your only causeing issues with the car with that knock you need to be at 0 if your tuner knows what he is doing. The first thing is to have him/her fix the Knock Sensitivity to eliminate the engine noise thats coming from the motor and is false knock. Do a log in your drive way like this.

warm the car up to operatating temps
Rev the car to at least 7k and let fall naturaly do this 2-3 times
you have to do the revs at 100% throttle that means pedal to the floor instantly. Then look at your knock count then start working on the knock sensitivity.
Also make sure there is no metal to metal contact anywhere or it will read as knock.

 

I'll try this an let you know what I find. I am going 100% throttle but a think the TPS is off since I recently had the seals replaced on my throttlebody. I'm going to also drain the tank and put fresh gas in it. The car spent most of the winter outside with the same tank of E85 in it. I've recently filled it but there has been a lot of condensation coming out of the exhaust.

 

Not sure if you fixed this one but I just solved a very similar problem. I have Vishnu (Fidanza) adjustable cam gears and found that the timing index marks are one tooth off for both Ex and In. This meant that although timed to the marks, both cams were ~ 8 cam degrees, or 16 crank degrees advanced. This completely messed up the VE for the motor and meant that I could only run 1 or 2 degrees on wastegate boost. Once I'd retimed the cams everything was back to where it should be. Check the cam timing if you didn't aleady!