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Old Feb 6, 2018, 06:06 PM
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3rd gear pull

Anyone tell me what I'm looking at here? new to evo scan, and I've read the majority of forums concerning it, but it still seems a bit foreign to me.
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Old Feb 6, 2018, 06:44 PM
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Welcome to the boards.
Here are a few links that are helpful if you haven't already checked them out. They are old but still relevant. I would reorganize your log to show AFR, timing, knock sum, knock volts, boost, load and coolant temp. There shouldn't be negative timing going on. With smaller turbo's most run 1-3* on the hit and slowly work up to 4-6* at 5500 then a gentle ramp up to 11-14* @8000 depending on fuel, turbo and boost level. These engines historically don't need alot of timing to run but it should be in the ballpark. Don't get carried away with boost, timing or a lean afr. There isn't a trophy for the most timing or boost you can run. AFR should be 12.5 below 10psi and make its way to 11.1-11.5AFR under boost for most engines. A chassis dyno is also a useful tool to use to see exactly what the engine wants.

Or get a well known professional to tune it and then make small changes if needed. They deal with these cars on a daily basis and know them well. You've spent 15K+ on a car and its an investment. Treat it like one.

Boost leak test every few months and before tuning. One step colder plugs gapped at .018-.020 for higher then stock levels are a good rule of thumb. Make sure all the maintenance is up to date. The Evo is a great platform and is extremely rewarding. Research and plan out your modifications.


http://www.evoscan.com/ecuflash/Merl...UIDE-V1.7a.pdf

Last edited by Abacus; Feb 6, 2018 at 07:01 PM.
Old Feb 7, 2018, 08:02 AM
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Thank you for the quick reply, Abacus.


I thought, for sure, there was something wrong with that negative timing. I'm really wondering what the knock sensor is reading. I hear these things are pretty sensitive, and get more sensitive with age.


I'm probably going to replace the knock sensor just for a piece of mind.


I have a serial cable on order for my WBo2 gauge. Hopefully that'll be in soon so I can log all the data needed correctly.


I'm going to dig into the links you provided, much appreciated!


I'm definitely no stranger to the Evo. I've owned a IX since 2006 .


Though, this is my second IX and I'm the 3rd owner. I've already gone through some terrible times with this car. Now, I want to be able to read the data myself to understand what is going on.


it has been professionally tuned, but it seams I have some hardware somewhere that is causing some weird throttle issues e.g. 1. the infamous 'clutch in, rpm drop, stall' issue that mrfred, merlin and so many others have tried to work on. 2. that negative timing draw under WOT. I have a rich/lean spike under slight acceleration at cruising speeds (I read somewhere that this is a response to the vehicle pulling timing).


I'm reduced to researching:


software:
ISCV tables
Decel Fuel Cut table


Hardware:
Double check for boost leaks
BOV
Exhaust leak
Knock sensor
Cam Position sensor
Any other sensors I find that are good to replace
check valves (entire engine bay)
brake booster (I've read this is a part of the overall vacuum schematic)


there are just so many options here that may be causing it. I hope to narrow it down soon, and as cost effective as possible.


I love the evo, but damn......when parts start to go, the headaches REALLY begin.
Old Feb 7, 2018, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Abacus
Welcome to the boards.
Here are a few links that are helpful if you haven't already checked them out. They are old but still relevant. I would reorganize your log to show AFR, timing, knock sum, knock volts, boost, load and coolant temp. There shouldn't be negative timing going on. With smaller turbo's most run 1-3* on the hit and slowly work up to 4-6* at 5500 then a gentle ramp up to 11-14* @8000 depending on fuel, turbo and boost level. These engines historically don't need alot of timing to run but it should be in the ballpark. Don't get carried away with boost, timing or a lean afr. There isn't a trophy for the most timing or boost you can run. AFR should be 12.5 below 10psi and make its way to 11.1-11.5AFR under boost for most engines. A chassis dyno is also a useful tool to use to see exactly what the engine wants.

Or get a well known professional to tune it and then make small changes if needed. They deal with these cars on a daily basis and know them well. You've spent 15K+ on a car and its an investment. Treat it like one.

Boost leak test every few months and before tuning. One step colder plugs gapped at .018-.020 for higher then stock levels are a good rule of thumb. Make sure all the maintenance is up to date. The Evo is a great platform and is extremely rewarding. Research and plan out your modifications.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8NAoIk4Ms8

http://www.evoscan.com/ecuflash/Merl...UIDE-V1.7a.pdf
The most useful and accurate post of the month award goes to Abacus!
Old Feb 7, 2018, 01:19 PM
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Be very careful adding timing, go 1* at a time, and keep a close eye on knock and knock voltage. Also find a good road to datalog on so you can compare runs in virtual dyno. Make sure adding timing is actually adding good tq, like at leat 10wtq per degree. Better to see 15 or more.
That looks like a stock turbo based on spool up, and depending on boost, that may have been all the timing it wants, especially on ACN 91 fuel. But if that's all it will take, I would consider lowering boost so you can run more timing. It'll keep EGT's more in check.
My car used to run like 0 or -1 on the hit with 91 octane on the stock turbo.


No need for colder plugs. Not doing anything with those except maybe making it idle a little rougher.
Old Feb 7, 2018, 05:17 PM
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Thanks for the reply 'letsgetthisdone.' I've got a CBRD BBK Full (stock framed). I've got a restrictive exhaust though, so the spool up isn't as fast as it was with my larger diameter exhaust - unfortunately.


as soon as I get this thing figured out though, I'm debating straight piping it. I miss my power curve.....this was on 1200cc low z. I wanna move to FIC 1650cc High--z.
Attached Thumbnails 3rd gear pull-rre-dyno-tq_hp-91-e85-.png  
Old May 28, 2018, 11:07 PM
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Could you tell me what low and or high "z" means? Sorry new here just trying to understand. Also if you could explain what knock is? Theres a ton of threads with it involved but no explaination of what "knock is actually telling you.
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