You don't need a new downpipe, if it's an RRM kit it bolts up to the stock one.
I think you run pressurized air through the intercooler to check for leaks.
If you want to paint it black, make sure you buy the right paint.

 

Thanks Amby.

If I can connect to the stock downpipe I might just do that to get it installed and then take it to a shop after the install and have a new downpipe fabricated with an O2 bung for my wideband.

I want to do the pressure check but I'm not sure how to go about doing it. I'm sure someone sells a kit but I haven't been able to locate one. Any ideas?

The issue with the paint is that my current FMIC looks tore up... if it holds boost I want to paint it... plus I like the idea of being sleeperish... can't stand people wanting to race on the roads. But there is still the issue concerning what type of paint to use. What's the right paint?


Fox

 

I'm pretty sure there's specific intercooler paint out there, I think it came up in the evo forums. Not entirely sure on the pressure check.

 

Thanks iufan4lifeul.

I plan on upgrading the downpipe eventually with an 02 sensor bung so I can start tuning, but I want to get everything installed before I do. When it comes to turbos I have very little in the way of knowledge concerning what I'm looking at. The kit comes with a Tail wastgate, is that good or bad?

Really guys I appreciate all the help. I've been reading the turbo forums for sometime now but still feel like a newb at this.

Fox

 

as long as it is a real tial then you are set to you. I think RRM's kit comes with a real tial. As far as turbo make sure the impeller isn't torn up (this one is a different type but same priciple, it is destroyed) http://www.warmkessel.com/jr/flying/...p31_damage.jpg


What is/causes Shaft Play?
Shaft play is caused by the bearings in the center section of the turbo wearing out over time. When a bearing is worn, shaft play, a side to side wiggling motion of the shaft occurs. This in turn causes the shaft to scrape against the inside of the turbo and often produces a high-pitched whine or whizzing noise. This is a potentially serious condition that can lead to internal damage or complete failure of the turbine wheel or the turbo itself.


Make sure the turbo doesn't do that by trying to gently move it back and forth and spinning the turbo and visually inspect.

 

Do I need to take the tubo apart to check for shaft play?

Is it ok to bend the fins on the FMIC back into place? It seems tedious but I mean I sit and watch the news at night and I might as well do something while sitting there...

Fox

 

So after some searching and suggestions...

Fin Pliers and Rake- I'm not sure if regular pliers will work but this kit comes with a rake as well that will allow me to keep it clean.

Radiator Paint - I'm going to use this to paint the FMIC... should do the trick.

What do you guys think? I might even do a write up.

Fox

 

that pliers and rake should do the trick. And so should the radiator paint. No need to take turbo apart for shaft play. You can tell from the outside.

 

From the looks of it I can just use a pair of flat needle nose pliers... I just noticed tha they sell the rake seperatly for 12 bucks... I'll give it a go tonight.

Fox

 

Does the wastegate have the seat? Does it have a little circle thing that slides into the exhuast entrance port? Pics would help.

 

Also do you have the instructions, i could send you a copy of mine so you know whats up!

 

Not sure what the seat is. But it does have the circle thing that slids into the exhaust entrance port... what does that mean?

My girlfriend has the digital camera so I won't be able to get pics till tomorrow night at the earliest. I"ll be sure to take shots of the FMIC, so you guys can see how messed up it is.

I'll take pics of everything and you guys can tell me what I have... You know the saying, don't look a gift Turbo in the manifold...

That would be very helpful, none came with the kit. And all of the hoses and some one of the pipes look to have been cut out.

Thanks Kungfugirl, I can pay you for the instructions.

 

A note on bending the FMIC fins back into shape... it's so tedious. I decided to just try some McGyver at home attempts before buying the rake or pliers from Eastwood. The rake in retrospect seems like it would be good for long thin metal that is equally spaced, ie. a radiator, which is what they are intended. Furthermore, in seeing that the RRM intercooler, and I'm assuming all intercoolers, have "V" shapped short fins running between each intercooler runner a rake wouldn't be effective.

I started with a pair of needle nosed pliers. That officially sucks. So I then moved to using a toothpick... suprisingly that seemed to work... until the damn thing broke.

I then moved to a 1-1/2 inch finishing nail, as it is about the same size of the toothpick but obviously stronger. That worked for the most part. Some of the fins are just fubar and beyond anykind of bending back into shape.

I also noticed that there is some damage to my FMIC, in the way of bends on the top and the bottom of the unit. I still have to figure out how to do a pressure check. I'm going to hold off on the black radiator paint till I figure that one out.

After two hours, with a small pizza dinner break in there somewhere, I pretty much have the front of the FMIC fins bent as close to where they should be as I can get them.

The person who owned this kit must have been riding behind a semi on a dirt road with small rocks hitting this thing... I just hope its looks are the worst of it and it will still hold boost... I don't want to have to force another IC last minute into this build.

Fox

 

payment wont be necessary, I'll photocopy them this week. (send em from my work )

pm me ur addie or po box.

 

shingen, I would be very sketchy about that intercooler. It SHOULD hold boost, but I would definately take it to someone who knows something for sure or who can test it.