EDIT:

I was going to draw the realy diagram but when i tried it the low beam would always power the high beam hmm... unless a diode or something was used or could probably do a reverse of the cabling so 30 is the output and power through 87a from the high beam so it goes to the low beam output when its off.

 

Ive had the 4 lamp mod for 2 years also but heres how i wired the relay .

 

 

Using my method? or another? This wiring works great for me. I would be nervous of drawing too much power from the one power wire to supply both bulbs. Maybe I am just being overly cautious since I dont know enough about voltage to know when too much is too much so I ran the extra power wire. You can only see a small piece of red wire off the battery lead going to the drivers side headlight. Then I have a black wire ran up under the radiator support so you cant see it at all looks good, I may tuck it more idk yet. Since I only have one wire coming out of the headlight I only have to make one disconnect so I can still pull the headlights out.

I looked over your thread on this 02lancer but I kept getting confused so I just looked up other threads where people did it and came up with my own method. I understand it now with your diagram

 

Yeah your method i was trying to draw out I think the problem was I had the idea it was two relays each triggering the low and high beam instead of just the high beam switching power to low beam as well .

BTW 55 watts IE the standard lightbulb in a 12 volt system is only 4.5 amps. Your typical 30 amp cable for these can run all four lights with ease.

 

Now with the HID low (in my case) is only 35w but idk with the ballast intial surge if that matters or not. Yes the high beam wiring is untouched save for one of the splice connections that go over the wire and connect the trigger wire. One relay per side. Basically just giving the low beam a secondary power source to use when the high beam is on

 

Relay coil triggers use very low amperage.

Looking up your basic radioshack spdt relay 40 amp has a coil ohms of 90 ohm.

Amps = Volts / Ohms

Amps = 12v / 90 ohms = 0.133 amps

Watts = Amps * volts sooo 0.133 * 12 you get 1.6 watts not much maybe enough for a high powered LED.

 

Hey RS do you know any test I can do to confirm my wideband is reading accurate? I swear its reading .5 afr leaner than it should. when I sit at idle my WB sits at 15.2 everytime

 

It can be the location of the wideband , exhaust leak or anything that can throw a wideband off , and of course it can be a bad sensor . I have already gone threw 3 sensors with mine .

 

Is there a way to adjust calibration? It has behaved like this since I installed it when I know I did not have any exhaust leaks and pretty confident I dont have any now. Just curious if there is any way to confirm like using the input of one of my other two narrowband factory sensors to compare to or something.

 

Some you can some you dont , i know to test them all you do with spray brake cleaner into a towel , as long as you leave the towel on the sensor it should stay full rich until the towel is removed .

 

Thinking of something a little more precise lol. If I cant I cant but I figured if there is a way somebody here would know how to

 

Most of the widebands i know of calibrate in open air where the current draw is the highest. I'm not sure what wideband you have but i'm sure there are instructions on it.

 

Yeah I was looking over the instructions for the AEM UEGO that I have, sounds like there is no way to adjust it even if I find it is out of calibration, a little excerpt from AEM:



Each AEM UEGO sensor is individually calibrated and a resistor integral at the
connector body is laser trimmed with this value. This process replaces the traditional
“free air” calibration procedure when changing sensors and implements a sensor
specific calibration for unparalleled accuracy.

 

How are you logging maybe the formula is just off?