Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.
The Dws are very good dry tires , very quite and comfortable but no where near as good as there summer performance Dw series !
The Dw on my car hook pretty good i would say ! Enough for me to destroy a Evo X from low rolls
Im debating picking up some 225 50 15 hoosers for the track thought !
The Dw on my car hook pretty good i would say ! Enough for me to destroy a Evo X from low rolls

Im debating picking up some 225 50 15 hoosers for the track thought !
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Yes these tires rock all around I must say. Since we average about 3 days of summer a year here lol they are perfect for our area. These are slightly taller too filling in the wheel wheel a little more, I have been running 205/40ZR17 for awhile now and these are 205/45ZR17. I havent even hit boost yet with them on, I have about 150 miles on them right now. Trying to baby them for there first few hundred miles. I have had to buy 2 1/2 sets of new tires for my car alone in the past two years so I need these to last (for the sake of my marriage!! lol jk) What I can say is riding in Ryans car WITH putting out more power than mine his traction is night and day better than mine with my old tires.
I was having problems going with my accel enrichment too. I went back to my stock lancer values and it really helped me out. My issue was going too rich though so changing that leaned the out a little. I have been actually leaning out my car a little by little to reach the 11.5 afr point and my results have been great. I was at around 11.0 before and bumping up the afrs I have actually gained a noticable amount of power and my egts and knock counts are great. I am leaving it at the 11.5 mark. Yesterday I did some more logs and my VDR showed a max of
238whp and 244wtrq!!!! plus I am getting more power at the lower rpms too. Definately would not hurt to adjust the aceel enrichment.
238whp and 244wtrq!!!! plus I am getting more power at the lower rpms too. Definately would not hurt to adjust the aceel enrichment.
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Nice man lol. VDR does seem pretty accurate and if nothing else is great for comparing runs and torque curves to help do some fine tuning for that perfect blend. I have found lately that yes these tires are helping a great deal with traction but the main reason was I adjusted my timing and upped it quite a bit during spool up time which seemed to give me a little more lag and made the turbo not come on so strong so I didnt go from 85hp to 200hp in .5 seconds lol. I have been adjusting it to find that sweet spot where I just get a little bit of spin but grabs again and hold through redline in second.
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Well thanks to RyanCB hooking me up with a coupler I was finally able to get that damn drivers side pipe up further. Still not tucked but much MUCH better 
And yes that is only a partial license plate and no I dont know what happened and dont plan on replacing anytime soon lol.

And yes that is only a partial license plate and no I dont know what happened and dont plan on replacing anytime soon lol.
I know it may not be the best timing since you just did. Your brakes but I found this post by Senate...
So the ES guys do have options... Just a little homework involved.
Just pick up the Wilwood kit and swap in these rotor hats:
http://www.wilwood.com/Hats/HatProd....temno=170-6288
These rotor hats will fit the ES. You might even be able to contact Wilwood and see if they would substitute these hats into the kit for you at the same cost.
http://www.wilwood.com/Hats/HatProd....temno=170-6288
These rotor hats will fit the ES. You might even be able to contact Wilwood and see if they would substitute these hats into the kit for you at the same cost.
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Yes Ive seen that post before. If I knew I was going to have the funds to get a big brake kit I would have definately searched and found a way
. Fact is for me not working right now and in school kinda hard to convince the wife to let me spend $600 on brakes lol. Good thing too cause right after that was when I had to get the new tires so I would have been in real hot water
. Fact is for me not working right now and in school kinda hard to convince the wife to let me spend $600 on brakes lol. Good thing too cause right after that was when I had to get the new tires so I would have been in real hot water
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Crash beam is long gone lol. No its low because I dont have the extra little skirt that the OZ has and using all stock evo piping it just hangs that low. Need to change it but meh not high on my list. Still cant figure out my dips. Swapped idle stepper motor and still dips, changed spark plugs, changed maf, changed intake manifold, map sensor, egr valve, pulled out injectors, checked crank sensor, cleaned everything thing I can think of, checked many times for boost leaks and vacuum leaks, confirmed I dont loose spark when the dips occur :-/. I think my car just hates me lol. Runs great and hauls *** just cant hold an idle if its life depended on it.
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Got tired of being blind for 10 seconds or so when going back to my low beams on the highway so I rewired and added relays to allow my low beams to stay on when I hit my high beams :-)
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This all depends on what headlights you have. I have the black depo with HID installed factory so I was able to hide the relays inside the actual housing and only have the new power wire coming out of it. Ryans are the same headlights but with an aftermarket hid kit so I had to wire the relays outside the headlight housing. Anyways attached is basically just the standard relay with post layout just disregard the writing on the pic. You have to run a fused power wire from your battery to both headlights:
30-- 12v is where this power wire will connect to
85-- is your ground, I grounded ryans to the body but on mine I spliced it right into the ground wire for the low beam since I have them hidden in the headlight housing, I was a little nervous at first as both high and low on running through one ground but I left the car running with both on for like 20 solid minutes and the ground wire was still cold so good there.
86-- trigger wire, this you want to splice into your high beam positive that way when your high beam gets power so will the trigger wire to signal the relay to kick on and supply the low beam with power via your newly routed power wire
87-- goes to your low beam positive power wire just splice it in do not cut your existing low beam power wire. Dont worry about feedback as the power will only go as far as the factory relay where it will be cut off.
87a-- unused


DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ONE BULB FOR BOTH HIGH AND LOW


