Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.
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Pouring down rain but here are some previous pics I took. I agree with you on the piping I have been wanting to change the LICP and UICP and the IC honestly for awhile to raise the piping up under the bumper and give me a more direct route with more hard piping.




Nice. I asked a guy about like, a BR UICP and Tial valve, and he said about 400+ or so, so I'm goign to have to think on that pretty hard and try to talk the wife into it. I'd love it if I could get my Coolant tank somewhere else, run the UICP closer to the radiator, and the air filter underneath it....specially since I need no MAF, I could just make a custom intake...or even stick the filter directly onto the turbo!
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Yeah no maf must be nice in that aspect. Really shouldnt be too hard to relocate that coolant overflow tank. Even if I relocated mine wouldnt do me much good atm until I get a new ic and piping then ill probably move it back towards the firewall on the drivers side.
Had to get a new tire yesterday. I was trying to hold off until I could just get all new tires but after I pulled the wheel off yesterday I realized just how bad it was. I should have taken pics holy crap tons of metal bands exposed on the inner side and bulges causing it to feel like I had a bent rim (hence why I pulled it off to begin with lol) Had them throw on another and rotate and balance them. Rides WAY better now.
Had to get a new tire yesterday. I was trying to hold off until I could just get all new tires but after I pulled the wheel off yesterday I realized just how bad it was. I should have taken pics holy crap tons of metal bands exposed on the inner side and bulges causing it to feel like I had a bent rim (hence why I pulled it off to begin with lol) Had them throw on another and rotate and balance them. Rides WAY better now.
Last edited by 03lances; Oct 21, 2011 at 03:50 PM.
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Got my new coupler yesterday and threw it on after work. Its goooooood to boost again. Pretty sure I am spiking 15 psi though. It holds strong at 14 psi for as long as I have that throttle to the floor doesnt really bleed off at all
. I really wanna get dynoed to find out how far off I am from VD results.
. I really wanna get dynoed to find out how far off I am from VD results.
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So a question and it may or may not be dumb lol. Shift knock dangerous? What I mean is for instance if im running the 1/4 mi if I shift fast and get knock how bad is it if I just keep the throttle down? Obviously at minimum the ecu is going to pull timing causing me to loose power but slow shifting will also give me a slower time as well. Can't seem to shake this shift knock for nothing.
So a question and it may or may not be dumb lol. Shift knock dangerous? What I mean is for instance if im running the 1/4 mi if I shift fast and get knock how bad is it if I just keep the throttle down? Obviously at minimum the ecu is going to pull timing causing me to loose power but slow shifting will also give me a slower time as well. Can't seem to shake this shift knock for nothing.
So, log a pull in 3rd to 4th, then follow the path of timing, and reduce timing slightly before and after where the knock occurs (big area, since you'll have to reproduce it). Then do the same thing again a couple times with 4-8* retarded timing, and see if the knock numbers change. If so...it's real knock and you have either a lean condition, rich condition, bad timing jump, or some other irregularity that is causing gas to be crappy on you.
Aye? My shift knock was more or less erradicated by timing changes in the area above 3k rpm between 50-120 load. You don't "hang out" in that area, so no need for the timing to be quite so advanced. Also, your throttle let off can throw you into the really low areas, like...10-40 load, and I know you have 38* there, so dropping that down some might also help. Follow the line of timing though, and see where it goes on a good hard shift.
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It depends. I read about it a lot, and there are 2 different things (broken record...). Real shift knock, and phantom shift knock. If your timing is causing you to actually register real knock, it means it would respond to timing changes....if it doesn't, then it's probably not real.
So, log a pull in 3rd to 4th, then follow the path of timing, and reduce timing slightly before and after where the knock occurs (big area, since you'll have to reproduce it). Then do the same thing again a couple times with 4-8* retarded timing, and see if the knock numbers change. If so...it's real knock and you have either a lean condition, rich condition, bad timing jump, or some other irregularity that is causing gas to be crappy on you.
Aye? My shift knock was more or less erradicated by timing changes in the area above 3k rpm between 50-120 load. You don't "hang out" in that area, so no need for the timing to be quite so advanced. Also, your throttle let off can throw you into the really low areas, like...10-40 load, and I know you have 38* there, so dropping that down some might also help. Follow the line of timing though, and see where it goes on a good hard shift.
So, log a pull in 3rd to 4th, then follow the path of timing, and reduce timing slightly before and after where the knock occurs (big area, since you'll have to reproduce it). Then do the same thing again a couple times with 4-8* retarded timing, and see if the knock numbers change. If so...it's real knock and you have either a lean condition, rich condition, bad timing jump, or some other irregularity that is causing gas to be crappy on you.
Aye? My shift knock was more or less erradicated by timing changes in the area above 3k rpm between 50-120 load. You don't "hang out" in that area, so no need for the timing to be quite so advanced. Also, your throttle let off can throw you into the really low areas, like...10-40 load, and I know you have 38* there, so dropping that down some might also help. Follow the line of timing though, and see where it goes on a good hard shift.
. Maybe ill give it another shot though and take my time on it. Cant be getting beat due to something like this All good points, especially with the low timing. Curious what (if anything) would happen to my low end power dropping down closer to stock lancer timing in that area of 38*. Although Before that big timing map change with the low loads jumped up I can say for sure I was still having shift knock. Seems like I have tried the lower timing and all I got was lacking power
. Maybe ill give it another shot though and take my time on it. Cant be getting beat due to something like this 
. Maybe ill give it another shot though and take my time on it. Cant be getting beat due to something like this Second...I don't think dropping timing in that area will do anything to your low end torque or anything else like that....it is just the cruise timing, so you might get better or worse gas millage but it won't affect power when you "goose it".
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Well...I gots 2 questions. First is what does your load curve look like...meaning when you gun it in 3rd gear, what line does your load follow.
Second...I don't think dropping timing in that area will do anything to your low end torque or anything else like that....it is just the cruise timing, so you might get better or worse gas millage but it won't affect power when you "goose it".
Second...I don't think dropping timing in that area will do anything to your low end torque or anything else like that....it is just the cruise timing, so you might get better or worse gas millage but it won't affect power when you "goose it".
Well here is a pic of a run put into maptracer

Here is a pic of my current timing map

I have adjusted my fuel slightly around peak torque range since this particular run to get rid of those 11.7-11.8 in the 4000-4250 range. I have not had a chance to do any logging or adjusting to try and combat the shift knock.
Nice, very nice. I noticed I'm actually doing 1 thing a little different than you. My "timing march" starts at about 4000. Evo's start at 5k, and what I mean (and I think you get this) is that timing goes from flat to increasing when the engine gets into it's "groove". I'm not sure if I'm not being smart, or if it's okay, but I don't seem to have any problems if I do a little timing hike right around 4k, about 1 degree every 500 rpm, maybe more in some spots. For comparison, I'll post my latest. I took your lead, as well as Aaron at English's suggestions, and my knock mults are more like 19-19-20 now, since timing had little to no effect on my knock during WOT. It actually did "sort of" because if I made low enough power, the engine would start to quiet down. Roadspike suggested that my knock mults were so sensitive that they were more like "power indicators" that knock indicators. I know it's not real knock finally though, that's what matters. Anyhow....
Follow up question, you don't have a MAP sensor, so what's your boost do, run up to 16 then taper down to ...9 by redline?
Follow up question, you don't have a MAP sensor, so what's your boost do, run up to 16 then taper down to ...9 by redline?
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Nice, very nice. I noticed I'm actually doing 1 thing a little different than you. My "timing march" starts at about 4000. Evo's start at 5k, and what I mean (and I think you get this) is that timing goes from flat to increasing when the engine gets into it's "groove". I'm not sure if I'm not being smart, or if it's okay, but I don't seem to have any problems if I do a little timing hike right around 4k, about 1 degree every 500 rpm, maybe more in some spots. For comparison, I'll post my latest. I took your lead, as well as Aaron at English's suggestions, and my knock mults are more like 19-19-20 now, since timing had little to no effect on my knock during WOT. It actually did "sort of" because if I made low enough power, the engine would start to quiet down. Roadspike suggested that my knock mults were so sensitive that they were more like "power indicators" that knock indicators. I know it's not real knock finally though, that's what matters. Anyhow....
Follow up question, you don't have a MAP sensor, so what's your boost do, run up to 16 then taper down to ...9 by redline?
Follow up question, you don't have a MAP sensor, so what's your boost do, run up to 16 then taper down to ...9 by redline?
Knock_adc_processed
Knock_base
As there called in evoscan 2.8. Along with knocksum of course. Merlins tuning guide has an awesome writeup on this. Real knock will show sharp spikes of the Knock_adc_processed that poke up through the Knock_base line. Where as when its just really noisy that adc processed might be consistently hitting that line just barely causing the knock sums to go crazy even though its not actually knock. Thats when I knew I needed to up the Multiplier in that rpm range to raise that knock_base line up a little higher
Just incase your using a different version than me (Merlins guide has a different name for the adc_processed) You just have to look for whatever is using Mut Requests 6A and 6B.
As for the boost, It ramps up to about 15 psi for just maybe half a second then drops to 14. However it doesnt look like it really tapers off much at all. I know Its still at 14 at about 5250. I will do a run though and check for sure. I am usually more concerned with watching the tach to know when to shift or let off when I am doing WOT pulls. Maybe ill use my phone to record my boost guage while I do a pull to see lol.
You know if it takes more fuel in the 4000-4250 range you just found where the engine reaches peak efficiency and VE should drop off like a rock afterwards. You should be able to ramp up timing substantially after peak VE and regain a lot of power since there will be less fuel air in the chamber.
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You know if it takes more fuel in the 4000-4250 range you just found where the engine reaches peak efficiency and VE should drop off like a rock afterwards. You should be able to ramp up timing substantially after peak VE and regain a lot of power since there will be less fuel air in the chamber.
I know according to VD my torque literally drops like a rock after around 4500. I have upped the timing some after that but I have not had anytime to actually log and graph it to see how it looks. I would love to be able to hang on to a little more of that power after peak torque hits. To be quite honest though it makes me a little nervous still have stock internals and all lol I really need to get on an actual dyno.
I really think if we could work on a table to for just false knock sounds or just something in general to the knock sensor that should help out a ton. It seems like no one here has yet to figure out how to get rid of false knock even though there are some complications that you cant get rid of such as exhaust hitting oil pan etc...
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Have you figured out something with the shift knock? My guess is when your shifting pretty hard that clutch engaging could have something to do with the knock table sounds "I forgot the name its been awhile since I tuned"
I really think if we could work on a table to for just false knock sounds or just something in general to the knock sensor that should help out a ton. It seems like no one here has yet to figure out how to get rid of false knock even though there are some complications that you cant get rid of such as exhaust hitting oil pan etc...
I really think if we could work on a table to for just false knock sounds or just something in general to the knock sensor that should help out a ton. It seems like no one here has yet to figure out how to get rid of false knock even though there are some complications that you cant get rid of such as exhaust hitting oil pan etc...
Had today off took myself and two buddies to Seattle to the Auto Show
. Got some awesome pics I will post some in a lil bit. Good news I filled up my tank before I left then again on the way home and recorded my mileage and how much gas I put in. 3 grown men in the car and of course neither had ridden in my car so I did lots of *Spirited* driving
. All the way there and back.247.5 mi with 8.717 gallons used
=28.3 mpg. Not bad especially with my heavy foot today






