Notices
Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #1366  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Pouring down rain but here are some previous pics I took. I agree with you on the piping I have been wanting to change the LICP and UICP and the IC honestly for awhile to raise the piping up under the bumper and give me a more direct route with more hard piping.


Reply
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #1367  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Nice. I asked a guy about like, a BR UICP and Tial valve, and he said about 400+ or so, so I'm goign to have to think on that pretty hard and try to talk the wife into it. I'd love it if I could get my Coolant tank somewhere else, run the UICP closer to the radiator, and the air filter underneath it....specially since I need no MAF, I could just make a custom intake...or even stick the filter directly onto the turbo!
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #1368  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Yeah no maf must be nice in that aspect. Really shouldnt be too hard to relocate that coolant overflow tank. Even if I relocated mine wouldnt do me much good atm until I get a new ic and piping then ill probably move it back towards the firewall on the drivers side.

Had to get a new tire yesterday. I was trying to hold off until I could just get all new tires but after I pulled the wheel off yesterday I realized just how bad it was. I should have taken pics holy crap tons of metal bands exposed on the inner side and bulges causing it to feel like I had a bent rim (hence why I pulled it off to begin with lol) Had them throw on another and rotate and balance them. Rides WAY better now.

Last edited by 03lances; Oct 21, 2011 at 03:50 PM.
Reply
Old Oct 25, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #1369  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Got my new coupler yesterday and threw it on after work. Its goooooood to boost again. Pretty sure I am spiking 15 psi though. It holds strong at 14 psi for as long as I have that throttle to the floor doesnt really bleed off at all . I really wanna get dynoed to find out how far off I am from VD results.
Reply
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 04:08 PM
  #1370  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
So a question and it may or may not be dumb lol. Shift knock dangerous? What I mean is for instance if im running the 1/4 mi if I shift fast and get knock how bad is it if I just keep the throttle down? Obviously at minimum the ecu is going to pull timing causing me to loose power but slow shifting will also give me a slower time as well. Can't seem to shake this shift knock for nothing.
Reply
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 04:33 PM
  #1371  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by 03lances
So a question and it may or may not be dumb lol. Shift knock dangerous? What I mean is for instance if im running the 1/4 mi if I shift fast and get knock how bad is it if I just keep the throttle down? Obviously at minimum the ecu is going to pull timing causing me to loose power but slow shifting will also give me a slower time as well. Can't seem to shake this shift knock for nothing.
It depends. I read about it a lot, and there are 2 different things (broken record...). Real shift knock, and phantom shift knock. If your timing is causing you to actually register real knock, it means it would respond to timing changes....if it doesn't, then it's probably not real.

So, log a pull in 3rd to 4th, then follow the path of timing, and reduce timing slightly before and after where the knock occurs (big area, since you'll have to reproduce it). Then do the same thing again a couple times with 4-8* retarded timing, and see if the knock numbers change. If so...it's real knock and you have either a lean condition, rich condition, bad timing jump, or some other irregularity that is causing gas to be crappy on you.

Aye? My shift knock was more or less erradicated by timing changes in the area above 3k rpm between 50-120 load. You don't "hang out" in that area, so no need for the timing to be quite so advanced. Also, your throttle let off can throw you into the really low areas, like...10-40 load, and I know you have 38* there, so dropping that down some might also help. Follow the line of timing though, and see where it goes on a good hard shift.
Reply
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #1372  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
It depends. I read about it a lot, and there are 2 different things (broken record...). Real shift knock, and phantom shift knock. If your timing is causing you to actually register real knock, it means it would respond to timing changes....if it doesn't, then it's probably not real.

So, log a pull in 3rd to 4th, then follow the path of timing, and reduce timing slightly before and after where the knock occurs (big area, since you'll have to reproduce it). Then do the same thing again a couple times with 4-8* retarded timing, and see if the knock numbers change. If so...it's real knock and you have either a lean condition, rich condition, bad timing jump, or some other irregularity that is causing gas to be crappy on you.

Aye? My shift knock was more or less erradicated by timing changes in the area above 3k rpm between 50-120 load. You don't "hang out" in that area, so no need for the timing to be quite so advanced. Also, your throttle let off can throw you into the really low areas, like...10-40 load, and I know you have 38* there, so dropping that down some might also help. Follow the line of timing though, and see where it goes on a good hard shift.
All good points, especially with the low timing. Curious what (if anything) would happen to my low end power dropping down closer to stock lancer timing in that area of 38*. Although Before that big timing map change with the low loads jumped up I can say for sure I was still having shift knock. Seems like I have tried the lower timing and all I got was lacking power . Maybe ill give it another shot though and take my time on it. Cant be getting beat due to something like this
Reply
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #1373  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by 03lances
All good points, especially with the low timing. Curious what (if anything) would happen to my low end power dropping down closer to stock lancer timing in that area of 38*. Although Before that big timing map change with the low loads jumped up I can say for sure I was still having shift knock. Seems like I have tried the lower timing and all I got was lacking power . Maybe ill give it another shot though and take my time on it. Cant be getting beat due to something like this
Well...I gots 2 questions. First is what does your load curve look like...meaning when you gun it in 3rd gear, what line does your load follow.

Second...I don't think dropping timing in that area will do anything to your low end torque or anything else like that....it is just the cruise timing, so you might get better or worse gas millage but it won't affect power when you "goose it".
Reply
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 10:56 PM
  #1374  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Well...I gots 2 questions. First is what does your load curve look like...meaning when you gun it in 3rd gear, what line does your load follow.

Second...I don't think dropping timing in that area will do anything to your low end torque or anything else like that....it is just the cruise timing, so you might get better or worse gas millage but it won't affect power when you "goose it".
Damn missed this post somehow, my bad...

Well here is a pic of a run put into maptracer


Here is a pic of my current timing map


I have adjusted my fuel slightly around peak torque range since this particular run to get rid of those 11.7-11.8 in the 4000-4250 range. I have not had a chance to do any logging or adjusting to try and combat the shift knock.
Reply
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #1375  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Nice, very nice. I noticed I'm actually doing 1 thing a little different than you. My "timing march" starts at about 4000. Evo's start at 5k, and what I mean (and I think you get this) is that timing goes from flat to increasing when the engine gets into it's "groove". I'm not sure if I'm not being smart, or if it's okay, but I don't seem to have any problems if I do a little timing hike right around 4k, about 1 degree every 500 rpm, maybe more in some spots. For comparison, I'll post my latest. I took your lead, as well as Aaron at English's suggestions, and my knock mults are more like 19-19-20 now, since timing had little to no effect on my knock during WOT. It actually did "sort of" because if I made low enough power, the engine would start to quiet down. Roadspike suggested that my knock mults were so sensitive that they were more like "power indicators" that knock indicators. I know it's not real knock finally though, that's what matters. Anyhow....

Follow up question, you don't have a MAP sensor, so what's your boost do, run up to 16 then taper down to ...9 by redline?
Attached Thumbnails Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.-star-wideband.png   Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.-star-boost.png  
Reply
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #1376  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Nice, very nice. I noticed I'm actually doing 1 thing a little different than you. My "timing march" starts at about 4000. Evo's start at 5k, and what I mean (and I think you get this) is that timing goes from flat to increasing when the engine gets into it's "groove". I'm not sure if I'm not being smart, or if it's okay, but I don't seem to have any problems if I do a little timing hike right around 4k, about 1 degree every 500 rpm, maybe more in some spots. For comparison, I'll post my latest. I took your lead, as well as Aaron at English's suggestions, and my knock mults are more like 19-19-20 now, since timing had little to no effect on my knock during WOT. It actually did "sort of" because if I made low enough power, the engine would start to quiet down. Roadspike suggested that my knock mults were so sensitive that they were more like "power indicators" that knock indicators. I know it's not real knock finally though, that's what matters. Anyhow....

Follow up question, you don't have a MAP sensor, so what's your boost do, run up to 16 then taper down to ...9 by redline?
I have found what "seems" to be a really accurate way to decipher real from false knock. I log

Knock_adc_processed
Knock_base

As there called in evoscan 2.8. Along with knocksum of course. Merlins tuning guide has an awesome writeup on this. Real knock will show sharp spikes of the Knock_adc_processed that poke up through the Knock_base line. Where as when its just really noisy that adc processed might be consistently hitting that line just barely causing the knock sums to go crazy even though its not actually knock. Thats when I knew I needed to up the Multiplier in that rpm range to raise that knock_base line up a little higher

Just incase your using a different version than me (Merlins guide has a different name for the adc_processed) You just have to look for whatever is using Mut Requests 6A and 6B.

As for the boost, It ramps up to about 15 psi for just maybe half a second then drops to 14. However it doesnt look like it really tapers off much at all. I know Its still at 14 at about 5250. I will do a run though and check for sure. I am usually more concerned with watching the tach to know when to shift or let off when I am doing WOT pulls. Maybe ill use my phone to record my boost guage while I do a pull to see lol.
Reply
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #1377  
RoadSpike's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,805
Likes: 2
From: Sacramento, CA
You know if it takes more fuel in the 4000-4250 range you just found where the engine reaches peak efficiency and VE should drop off like a rock afterwards. You should be able to ramp up timing substantially after peak VE and regain a lot of power since there will be less fuel air in the chamber.
Reply
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #1378  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by RoadSpike
You know if it takes more fuel in the 4000-4250 range you just found where the engine reaches peak efficiency and VE should drop off like a rock afterwards. You should be able to ramp up timing substantially after peak VE and regain a lot of power since there will be less fuel air in the chamber.
I know according to VD my torque literally drops like a rock after around 4500. I have upped the timing some after that but I have not had anytime to actually log and graph it to see how it looks. I would love to be able to hang on to a little more of that power after peak torque hits. To be quite honest though it makes me a little nervous still have stock internals and all lol I really need to get on an actual dyno.
Reply
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #1379  
steven121's Avatar
Evolved Member
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (27)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 12
From: TX
Originally Posted by 03lances
I know according to VD my torque literally drops like a rock after around 4500. I have upped the timing some after that but I have not had anytime to actually log and graph it to see how it looks. I would love to be able to hang on to a little more of that power after peak torque hits. To be quite honest though it makes me a little nervous still have stock internals and all lol I really need to get on an actual dyno.
Have you figured out something with the shift knock? My guess is when your shifting pretty hard that clutch engaging could have something to do with the knock table sounds "I forgot the name its been awhile since I tuned"

I really think if we could work on a table to for just false knock sounds or just something in general to the knock sensor that should help out a ton. It seems like no one here has yet to figure out how to get rid of false knock even though there are some complications that you cant get rid of such as exhaust hitting oil pan etc...
Reply
Old Nov 5, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #1380  
03lances's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by steven121
Have you figured out something with the shift knock? My guess is when your shifting pretty hard that clutch engaging could have something to do with the knock table sounds "I forgot the name its been awhile since I tuned"

I really think if we could work on a table to for just false knock sounds or just something in general to the knock sensor that should help out a ton. It seems like no one here has yet to figure out how to get rid of false knock even though there are some complications that you cant get rid of such as exhaust hitting oil pan etc...
I haven't been able to do any logging. I have tues weds off next week I want to do some logging of shift knock to see what I can come up with I will keep this updated on any and all findings.

Had today off took myself and two buddies to Seattle to the Auto Show . Got some awesome pics I will post some in a lil bit. Good news I filled up my tank before I left then again on the way home and recorded my mileage and how much gas I put in. 3 grown men in the car and of course neither had ridden in my car so I did lots of *Spirited* driving . All the way there and back.

247.5 mi with 8.717 gallons used
=28.3 mpg. Not bad especially with my heavy foot today
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:27 AM.