Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.
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This was what I was thinking just wasnt sure if it would work logging both of these and comparing voltage of front 02 with afr reading of wb. when cruising it like to fluctuate between 15.2 14.7. Shouldnt the median afr be more closer to 14.7 and not 15.0?
honestly that sounds pretty normal to me. I think the o2 sensors just aren't fast enough to make it a steady 14.7. The mitsubishi doesn't use a voltage to afr calculation to make the fuel trim more robust it just has a switching voltage which is sorta lame :P
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Thanks Grind3r, its a long read but well worth it there is a TON of info all through this thread I tried to post stuff about anything and everything I was doing or having issues with my car. Looking forward to seeing some more numbers from your car.
I'm looking forward to better numbers for sure. Unfortunately my stock MAF is chocking out between 1500 and 2000 rpm on launch. Aaron was able to only do so much. But with the rest of upgrades in the coming weeks and adding the 4bar MAP and deleting and removing the MAF altogether, Things should be looking much better. I will definitely give updates afterwords.
By the way, your thread did help me a lot when I began this new obsession a few months ago.
By the way, your thread did help me a lot when I began this new obsession a few months ago.
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Anyone know how to test a manual boost controller to see if its bad? I pulled off my manifold/turbo assembly on friday determined to figure out what my rattle was during deceleration and rpm drops in general. Found my turbo was not quite clocked right causing the forge adjustable wastegate to give the internal flapper slight play. After I got it back together I went for a drive and was overboosting to 18 psi for a couple pulls then it dropped to 13, after I was satisfied it wasnt going back up I turned up the mbc only to find it wouldnt raise. Pulled mbc off cleaned it and then it went down to 11 lol. Took it off again and looked over it and cleaned it again meticulously and put it back on and dropped to 9 wtf??? now I am stuck at 9 psi with a tune meant for 15
Anyone know how to test a manual boost controller to see if its bad? I pulled off my manifold/turbo assembly on friday determined to figure out what my rattle was during deceleration and rpm drops in general. Found my turbo was not quite clocked right causing the forge adjustable wastegate to give the internal flapper slight play. After I got it back together I went for a drive and was overboosting to 18 psi for a couple pulls then it dropped to 13, after I was satisfied it wasnt going back up I turned up the mbc only to find it wouldnt raise. Pulled mbc off cleaned it and then it went down to 11 lol. Took it off again and looked over it and cleaned it again meticulously and put it back on and dropped to 9 wtf??? now I am stuck at 9 psi with a tune meant for 15
Sorry too hear about your newest problem. I actually was thinking about adding a MBC to my setup, but have read up on them over the last few weeks and have found quite a few complaining about them going bad or just getting a bad one right from the start. Mostly Ebay ones. Bad Springs, Ball sticking and such.
I am actually curious if your Turbo clocking and loose Wastegate flap may have been showing you a false reading before you fixed that issue and was making it seem the MBC was working properly before.
I'm sure others will chime in and maybe will have a more solid answer to whether the MBS is bad or how to test it though.
Hope your able to get it sorted though.
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So I pulled my wastegate back off and pulled the yellow spring out and put in the blue spring its supposed to be 14-20# spring and bypassed the mbc all together. Hitting 10psi maybe 11 barely sometimes but not 14 where it should be at least. Going to do another boost leak test but anybody have any other ideas? Turbo looked fine when I pulled it off friday still no shaft play and free spinning.
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Well no boost leaks, however one quesion, how do you get all the intake valves closed to do a proper test? I can always hear slight hissing and find it to be inside the intake passing through those intake valves.


