Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.
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You can test the WGA with attaching your air compressor to it. I put a vacuum hose on the tool that fills up inner tubes and stuff, and then connect it to the WGA nipple. You can adjust the pressure up on the air compressor, and watch the arm on the WGA. It will start to open at like 5 psi and fully open at 10 if you have the smallest forge spring.
Test it with your blue one, and see how it reacts. I bet if it's a 10-15 psi spring it will start opening at like 10 and then fully by 15. The stock evo spring is fully open at 12psi in my experience. If your blue spring forge opens easy, like you can just yank the arm or something and have it open right up, then it's messed up. If it doesn't, you probably didn't have preload set right.
Preload is just supposed to keep it from opening with lightpressure and the exhaust pressure pushing against the door. I've found that basically setting the eyelet to the point where it can just slip on and off, then giving it about 3 full turns does the trick. Too little preload, and boost is slow to build, too much and the arm can't fully extend and you run the risk of overboosting since it limits the flapper door travel. Better to get the WGA nicely set so it holds but not any stiffer, and then use MBC or electronic boost control to up it from there.
Test it with your blue one, and see how it reacts. I bet if it's a 10-15 psi spring it will start opening at like 10 and then fully by 15. The stock evo spring is fully open at 12psi in my experience. If your blue spring forge opens easy, like you can just yank the arm or something and have it open right up, then it's messed up. If it doesn't, you probably didn't have preload set right.
Preload is just supposed to keep it from opening with lightpressure and the exhaust pressure pushing against the door. I've found that basically setting the eyelet to the point where it can just slip on and off, then giving it about 3 full turns does the trick. Too little preload, and boost is slow to build, too much and the arm can't fully extend and you run the risk of overboosting since it limits the flapper door travel. Better to get the WGA nicely set so it holds but not any stiffer, and then use MBC or electronic boost control to up it from there.
If its blowing constantly no matter what the pressure is sounds like the MBC is stuck wide open. Try blowing in it with your mouth see if its too easy to move the ball and spring. Your mouth can only produce about 2psi unless you do special risky moves to increase the pressure.
The WG spring pretty much confirms that the MBC isn't working if it just hits 9psi. Just because you have a bigger spring in there doesn't mean your going to hit that level of boost unless there was a pretty serious leak, the turbo is big to be overrun by any small leak. A really common one is the EGR lines blow off on the evo dont know if you have that issue.
The WG spring pretty much confirms that the MBC isn't working if it just hits 9psi. Just because you have a bigger spring in there doesn't mean your going to hit that level of boost unless there was a pretty serious leak, the turbo is big to be overrun by any small leak. A really common one is the EGR lines blow off on the evo dont know if you have that issue.
Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions!!!
Last edited by 03lances; Jun 23, 2012 at 11:04 PM.
It did seem to be blowing out the hole long before 15 psi although I did not take note when it actually started blowing out. I just set my regulator low on my compressor and increased it as needed to reach a constant of 15 psi. Doesnt help that my leak testor itself is junk and leaks too. Only thing I had blowing off was the dipstick lol. There is most definately nothing to overrun the turbo. A little confused though you say a bigger spring in the WGA does not mean I will get higher boost? Isnt that what the different spring rates are for in the spring tuning kit for the Forge adjustable wga?
Its a shame i got rid of my buschur mbc i could have swapped it out with this hallman and sent it to you.
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I pulled my turbo apart when I was first collecting parts for my build to clean it and paint it. At the time I was unaware of any pin to keep it aligned and mine must have been removed before I got it as I can spin it any way I want. With Ryan's the forced performance evo 3 16g it had the turbo clocked opposite ie. the j pipe would have been connected and coming out the top instead of going underneath like the stock 16g I had. So I had to break out my grinder and dremel and start cutting on a brand spanking new turbo that just came in that morning so we could spin it around. I noticed the rrm turbo he had originally gotten for the build had this too, rrm grinds down the pin and spins in around for there kits or at least for that kit.
Last edited by 03lances; Jun 24, 2012 at 11:13 PM.
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Springs are just a stepping value upping the base boost and the mbc controls it from there. If your mbc is below base then it does nothing just fyi. Even though a spring may be rated to a certain pressure other factors like preload and positioning can effect the actual psi value it reaches before blowing open.
Its a shame i got rid of my buschur mbc i could have swapped it out with this hallman and sent it to you.
Its a shame i got rid of my buschur mbc i could have swapped it out with this hallman and sent it to you.
Gotcha, you know the only thing I can think of is when I first went for a drive after I put everything back together and it dropped psi I pulled the mbc off and cleaned it. I found debris in the mbc, of what idk but I think I scratched the seating surface in the lower half of the mbc where the ball resides which I am guessing caused a leak past the ball no matter what
Gotcha, you know the only thing I can think of is when I first went for a drive after I put everything back together and it dropped psi I pulled the mbc off and cleaned it. I found debris in the mbc, of what idk but I think I scratched the seating surface in the lower half of the mbc where the ball resides which I am guessing caused a leak past the ball no matter what
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Well I just took a piece of vacuum hose and shoved a valve stem in one end and clamped it then connected that to the wga nipple. As suspected you were pretty spot on Hornstar it didnt even budge until around 10-11 psi and the spring does not fully depress until about 28-30 psi. I assume that the door does not have to fully open anyways to keep boost in check. So since the wga seems to be working properly you think I may need to clock the turbo even more? maybe the preload still isn't right? As I said before dropping the eyelit to the bottom (only one full turn) gave me another 3 psi of boost. Going to check the mbc next just came in for some dinner.
One other question though is the door for the IWG supposed to be welded to the arm?
This guys door came off completely. Reason I ask is my door is attached to the arm but has some play, just enough to know its not all one piece and doubtful is causing any issues but just curious.
One other question though is the door for the IWG supposed to be welded to the arm?
This guys door came off completely. Reason I ask is my door is attached to the arm but has some play, just enough to know its not all one piece and doubtful is causing any issues but just curious.
Last edited by 03lances; Jun 25, 2012 at 07:08 PM.
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Ok so what exactly should I be looking for with the mbc? I tried just blowing through the bottom and I cant but it seems like it start coming through probably before 5 psi although its very very faint cant hear it but if you hold it up to your face you can feel a slight breeze. at 10psi you can hear it just fine with a steady stream of air. I am going to crank the mbc all the way up and see what happens.
EDIT: So I only put a small amount of pressure in my compressor while doing these tests. I cranked the mbc until it wouldn't go anymore and tested it up to 30psi and the ball held the pressure no problem. Seems like the mbc is working just fine to me??? I dropped it down about halfway and it held until about 20 psi. I am starting to suspect not enough preload and needing to clock the turbo a little more.
Or I may just put the forge back on and the mbc and try like 20 clicks and see what happens what do you guys think? Spool is much better than before so seems like the door is being held closed just fine
EDIT: So I only put a small amount of pressure in my compressor while doing these tests. I cranked the mbc until it wouldn't go anymore and tested it up to 30psi and the ball held the pressure no problem. Seems like the mbc is working just fine to me??? I dropped it down about halfway and it held until about 20 psi. I am starting to suspect not enough preload and needing to clock the turbo a little more.
Or I may just put the forge back on and the mbc and try like 20 clicks and see what happens what do you guys think? Spool is much better than before so seems like the door is being held closed just fine
Last edited by 03lances; Jun 25, 2012 at 07:59 PM.
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Guess I should have clarified that sorry. I didnt mean the wga arm I mean what the arm connects to on the hotside. The internal arm shown in the pic above.
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ITS BACK!!!! MY BOOST IS BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Damn it feels good to hit 15psi again glues me to my seat pretty good and it spools up to there so friggin fast now I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!. I think it was a combination of wastgate preload and something with the boost controller. I noticed when I took it apart a little bit ago and put it back together the knob turned much easier like normal. Before it was a little tight to turn. Plus I finally comprehended exactly what RS was saying with the springs lol. Thanks everyone for all the help with everything.