The FMU is not necessary. The Walbro will always help. The FPR is optional. For 5psi your stock injectors will work. Anything more than 5-7psi and you'll want to look at the 440cc WRX injectors.

 

That makes sense, walbro just pushes more to the FPR, which regulates it depending on what it is set to (stock is 38psi or whatever). If I need more fuel injected, I increase the amount the injectors push out by upgrading them (assuming my fuel pump can push that much...ie walbro), and then last, I would increase pressure at the FPR if I really raise the boost (or is this not true, I'd just keep the pressure the same, and pump more fuel through via other means such as bored rails, etc etc... to preserve hoses and what not, since the system wasn't designed with higher fuel pressure in mind).

Also...this all means I can replace the fuel pump "pre-turbo" since the FPR still does it's job regulating how much fuel gets injects, so I might as well order that and get it installed early.

Side note.....the buick's motor mount has been replaced, the belt fixed, the tensioner is back in working order and the power steering leak is fixed. I now have a suitable car for use when the lancer is down!

(small back story here, my wife hit a speed bump in her buick at about 50, smashed the passenger motor mount to pieces, clipped a powersteering line, tore the belt to shreds.......and then kept driving it for 2 days without telling me. "honey, why is my car overheating???" This is also my bargaining chip for installign the turbo - she gets to spend 25000 on a car...I get to spend 2k on a turbo)

 

Specifically geared to the guys who flashed the evo rom, or got an evo ecu...
Do the larger maps in the evo rom help at lower boost levels, or cause more confusion during (initial) tuning?

Anyone with a turbo'd lancer...
How do you guys feel on the highway, just driving an hour to see a friend. Does the car seem "unhappy" sitting at 3500 rpm's doing 80 mph for extended amounts of time?

Oh...and the power steering pump pulley broke on the wifes car, the turbo project is "on-hold" until I get that fixed, and get paid again. ...sigh, where are my "unlimited funds" already...

 

that sucks man lol, hey I see you have a plastic bov you looking to upgrade to a metal one? because i have one for sale if your interested

 

Larger maps will help with tuning at any load/RPM range with greater detail. On the highway the turbo is not under heavy load since you're very light on the pedal to maintain speed on the highway. The turbo is assisting the engine with the added airflow and the engine doesn't have to work as hard. I get around 35-37mpg when I drive alot of highway miles with my setup.

 

?W&!#@(&!@# 37mpg! good god..

 

19lbs of boost its turnes to gallons per mile not miles per gallon especially since i get a heavy foot from time to time. but 37mpg is really good if your calculations are correct. but lancer dont even get that type of mileage stock with no boost!!!

 

Yeah....I get 34 if i drive like granny.

So, since the turbo is just lightly spooling, if at all, it doesn't over heat or anything....no problem with a 10 hour drive or anything? I don't typically do such things, just wondering I guess.

 

way to not tell me!!! if this "piece-o" plastic one breaks, I'll know who to call. Damn it though, if anyone does have any of these parts that don't have a # in front of them, tell me. (# means I have/bought it already)

 

wll im trying to sell it for 60 shipped but but people just dont have the money

 

More questions...

Does the stock EVO8 BOV have trouble at low psi (what is considered acceptable for the BOV to function correctly?), causing compressor surge...if so, how do I detect that, stalling? flames coming from the compressor?
Are ARP headstuds (or any good headstuds) necessary at 5-7 psi?
How heavy was the head when you removed it to replace them, and can I pick it up with just a buddy (no engine "lift")?

 

Compressor surge is caused when a BOV doesn't open or doesn't open quick enough to vent the excess pressure in the intake tract. What you're referring to is how the Evo BOV "leaks" a big of pressure at partial boost. This is how the valve was intended to function and why alot of Evo owners go with an aftermarket BOV when they aren't recirculating back into the intake.

ARP headstuds are insurance for your motor and cost less than another motor. The cylinder head is not heavy at all. It can be removed in a driveway with basic hand tools.

 

I talked to my buddy, and he's willing to help replace them. I also talked to a couple people though, and they basically laughed when I said "7psi, new headbolts or headstuds?" all saying, you will break something else first. So, still up in the air on this one I guess.

As far as compressor surge, from what I can tell it's pressure staying in the pressurized side of the valve, and not flowing over to the "pre-turbo" side. This happens because the bov is crap? leaking actually sounds "safer" then compressor surge, if they are the opposites of each other. What am I missing, lol.

 

People have ran upwards of 12psi and higher on stock engines (myself included) and caused no engine damage. It all depends on how safe your tune is, but IMO headstuds are a requirement.

You are correct with your description of compressor surge. It doesn't only happen from cheap BOVs, but also if the spring in the BOV is set too tight to where the pressure in the intake tract isn't enough to push the spring in the valve open. The "leaking" aspect of the Evo BOV is part of their design since they are recirculated from the factory.

 

only took 3 motors for me to give up at 16psi.. never lifted the head though.. just bending rods and rod bearings goin bad..