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One more 16g thread - few questions

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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
So....my question then is by "annihilation" lets pretend pistons and rods both just shatter to millions of pieces. I'm assuming more needs to be done to repair that damage, so do people usually just buy a new engine? or do they replace the pistons and rods with nice solid ones and run more boost? I guess I'm just curious if it's worth risking it, knowing I'll need to spend money to fix it. I guess if I have plans to put about 1100 in to pistons and rods later down the line, I should replace the headbolts then? and stick to my 6-7 psi now, with stock?
If your piston and rods shatter more than likely its going to reallllly **** up the cylinder walls and/or head rendering the engine more work than its worth, better to find another engine.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #62  
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Ugg, I got that manifold back a few days, and that thing is pretty. I really can't wait to get her installed, but dang is it tight in there where the turbo mounts up. The bolts don't quite like the threads on my turbo, I think the mani was intended for the turbos with all the holes in the turbo inlet, but mine has studs. I ordered a slim nut that is the right size to fit up to the stud, so that I don't have to drill it out...because if I did that, I still might not be able to get a nut into the manifold. Anywho, 16g's have weird sized studs, 10x1.25 and no one in town stocks a nut like that, in the slim variety. Hopefully the ones I ordered aren't total crap and just melt or something.

Oh, what do you guys think, buy flanges and weld my own extension with a friends help, or get a muffler place to do it? If I do it, what flanges are you guys using to match up with the cat on one and the evo downpipe on the other?

Last edited by HornstarBU; Jun 24, 2010 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #63  
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2 questions, 1...what would you do here, with this spot on the mani being so tight.



next, I was under the impression that we needed pipe to extend the evo8 downpipe to reach the catalytic converter....but I measured and it looks like I'll need to extend the pipe to the exhaust AFTER the cat, so i'll be running catless, ya?

Last edited by HornstarBU; Oct 30, 2010 at 10:52 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #64  
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I removed all of my studs in the turbo hotside and put in bolts and nuts with lock washers. I just cut one of the bolts to fit in that spot the took the nut and ground of part of one side so it would fit in there far enough. Plus nice thing about that is you can tighten the bolt without holding the nut sinces its up against the manifold runner
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:23 AM
  #65  
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then I'm going to remove that stud. I think I'll leave one because...why not, right?

so, by stud removal, did you drill it out, or just unscrew it. If i remove it, I'll still need to drill the hole a bit to make a bolt be able to fit through, right?
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:32 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
2 questions, 1...what would you do here, with this spot on the mani being so tight.



next, I was under the impression that we needed pipe to extend the evo8 downpipe to reach the catalytic converter....but I measured and it looks like I'll need to extend the pipe to the exhaust AFTER the cat, so i'll be running catless, ya?
Yikes. That doesn't look too good. You should have enough space on the flange around the bolt hole to allow a bolt head/nut to sit flush against the flange. Otherwise you're putting uneven strain on the bolt.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #67  
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Oh, my other question. I must have been thinking about this all wrong this whole time, but the evo downpipe is LONGER than the lancer downpipe, so the section of pipe is to connect the stock exhaust (or bolt on catback really) to the downpipe....so no cat, right? Think I should just take the car to an exhaust shop, and have them weld in a smaller high flow cat, to keep it at least somewhat environmentally friendly and pray I pass emissions?

The big question is, is everyone removing the cat when they connect up the evo downpipe to the lancer exhaust, not by choice but necessity?
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:46 AM
  #68  
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touche

Originally Posted by senate6268
Yikes. That doesn't look too good. You should have enough space on the flange around the bolt hole to allow a bolt head/nut to sit flush against the flange. Otherwise you're putting uneven strain on the bolt.
If you were me, what would you do at this point? Ask for a refund, exchange or whatever? I think it's weird to have it so close, but it's hard not to with the positioning of the pipes and stuff.

I guess I could file a bit of the weld away so the bolt can sit nicely, but I don't want to screw it up either.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #69  
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I bought bkr7e plugs (ngk # 4644), is that right or are you guys using brk7e-11 (ngk # 5791). The reason I ask is that the autozone guy said the plugs his list shows for my car are bkr5e-11, not bkr5e.

*EDIT* the -11 at the end means they are gaped to .44, so if I just re-gap them, which I'd do anyways, they will be fine I think.

Last edited by HornstarBU; Jun 25, 2010 at 09:21 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
If you were me, what would you do at this point? Ask for a refund, exchange or whatever? I think it's weird to have it so close, but it's hard not to with the positioning of the pipes and stuff.

I guess I could file a bit of the weld away so the bolt can sit nicely, but I don't want to screw it up either.
This was one of the things I was not happy about too I would think they could come up with a better design than this. My studs were in there pretty ****ing tight I had to take the hotside off the turbo then clamp the stud into my bench vise and slowly work it back and forth and slowly turn it out. Not even a pipe wrench was doing the job for me. Hopefully yours will be easier you can try a pipe wrench first
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #71  
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Nice !
Good luck with the build if you need any parts let me know i have alot of extra parts and live about 40 miin from Austin .

I just turbo'd my Lancer aswell .
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 07:45 AM
  #72  
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link me

Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
Nice !
Good luck with the build if you need any parts let me know i have alot of extra parts and live about 40 miin from Austin .

I just turbo'd my Lancer aswell .
Did you have a build thread, I'd lo e to give it a read. That's awesome that you're in SA. I don't know 2 people within 5 hours who have their lancer turboed, so its very cool to hear from you.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #73  
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No sorry i never really post anything i do to my car Haha

But i do have a 16G 10.5 Turbo/Hotside with the same manifold as you . What i did was try and remove that bolt but i couldn't , it snapped and i just left it like that , it does not leak so i am worry free .
I have an Extra 10.5 hotside aswell .
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 10:03 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
No sorry i never really post anything i do to my car Haha

But i do have a 16G 10.5 Turbo/Hotside with the same manifold as you . What i did was try and remove that bolt but i couldn't , it snapped and i just left it like that , it does not leak so i am worry free .
I have an Extra 10.5 hotside aswell .
I'm going to run with 5-6 psi, so the 10.5 hotside wouldn't help me a ton I think. After I get comfortable with tuning, and I make sure everything is working right, I will get a little riskier, with headstuds, inejctors, and maybe buy that hotside from you. That's when I get to the next level though, for now it's just all about getting it together and running well. I just recharged the A/C on the buick, and it seems to be holding well....so I can officially drive that thing to work without showing up dripping wet.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 10:17 AM
  #75  
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I am going to be running at least 10psi but i do have the headstuds . Also here in San Antonio there is a well known Mitsubishi tunner at Jms racing .
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