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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

One more 16g thread - few questions

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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #91  
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I tried to thread it out...and busted it off. So, I did make a huge discovery though. bought a carbide granite or masonry bit....and that thing slices through the hotside very very well. Still going to take me an hour or so, but it'll work. brb, tv show then hole drillin!
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #92  
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Cool deal never thought of that. Ya I had to turn it maybe 1/4 turn then back an 1/8. It was extremely hard to turn and so I imagine it was heating up fast making it even harder to turn but I just kept the 1/4 forward 1/8 back and spraying and it eventually came out
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 10:28 PM
  #93  
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So she's coming along nicely....slowly but surely. I've got about ...1/8th inch left to drill out, but here's what she'll look like. So weird, it's like I've seen it before....in every other 16g thread! lol



Last edited by HornstarBU; Oct 30, 2010 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 10:37 PM
  #94  
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nice!!! your going to have to move that coolant bar over because is will run into something by the block I had a brain fart but I will take pics tomorrow to show you what I mean
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:29 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by steven121
nice!!! your going to have to move that coolant bar over because is will run into something by the block I had a brain fart but I will take pics tomorrow to show you what I mean
Ya, I've heard that. And I have to grind the spot where that bolt goes in a bit too...the one facing the engine that you can't see in the pic, right? So it can clear whatever that rail is that goes across the front of the engine. I'm going to do a dry fit and see how the downpipe lines up with the stock cat sometime this or next weekend. The thing holding me up is that stud I snapped off, which I've almost drilled through, but may need to spend more time "cleaning up". I don't want sharp metal things poking me, lol.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:45 AM
  #96  
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are you talking about drilling your mani holes to bolt up to the exhaust block? My mech just had me hold the turbo and he slapped a little bit of oil on the drill bit and pretty much got through it, but the only problem I had was the 2 outside runner holes... we just made those bigger so it would slide right on, make sure if you are drilling to cover the inside of your manifold so no shavings get inside otherwise you will be busy cleaning
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #97  
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no one used a boost controller instead of replacing the wga for a forge adjustable wga ?
cant you just plug the boost controller and use the stock wga?
seems like good sense to me

Last edited by cedes14bamg; Jul 2, 2010 at 10:05 AM. Reason: errors
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by cedes14bamg
no one used a boost controller instead of replacing the wga for a forge adjustable wga ?
cant you just plug the boost controller and use the stock wga?
seems like good sense to me
Well...what a "boost controller" does is sits between the vac/boost and the WGA, and modifies the pressure the WGA sees in order to INCREASE boost. This means it basically restricts flow, so that the WGA won't open until higher pressure....but you can never go lower than the WGA's setting. In our cars, the stock evo 15 or 20 psi or whatever is way too high. The forge gives us the ability to start lower, then add a boost controller if we want and raise boost up to even 15 psi for some people. If you did rebuild the engine with forged internals, you could use the stock WGA, but you might be better off with a forge anyways...since you'd need to tune lower and work your way up.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Well...what a "boost controller" does is sits between the vac/boost and the WGA, and modifies the pressure the WGA sees in order to INCREASE boost. This means it basically restricts flow, so that the WGA won't open until higher pressure....but you can never go lower than the WGA's setting. In our cars, the stock evo 15 or 20 psi or whatever is way too high. The forge gives us the ability to start lower, then add a boost controller if we want and raise boost up to even 15 psi for some people. If you did rebuild the engine with forged internals, you could use the stock WGA, but you might be better off with a forge anyways...since you'd need to tune lower and work your way up.
+1 the stock wga is set at 11 psi you could run it but its not prefered just because you have to have a really good tune.

My manifold just turned colors lol now its a light goldish color because of the heat it still looks pretty sick anyways when my girl friend leaves my house around 2 I will post up the pics for you guys
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:36 PM
  #100  
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yea im confident about the stock WA being at a certain psi allready but i thought it was at 9 and not 11 ?
we need some info here
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #101  
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Big thing for me is I want to run 6 psi to start with, so I'll be using the forge. Guess what Anderson just drilled a hole through!!!



Oh, and guess what came in the mail....



Dangerously close I am getting.

Last edited by HornstarBU; Oct 30, 2010 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 12:37 AM
  #102  
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Nice bro looks like your coming along just fine.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:11 AM
  #103  
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Well, I went out on my quest today to do some logging....and evoscan has a modest learning curve, even for a "seasoned" IT guy such as myself. Lol, I am just kidding around btw, just because I do IT work as a job doesn't make me any good with these electronic devices I've heard some call "computers".

Anyways....back to my original though, holy crap! I just ran around town a little logging the entire time, stoping here and there to do some inspection of what the heck is getting logged...and the thing that shocks me most (And it shouldn't) is that my "max knocksum" is up to 10 in some spots higher than 40% load. I'm a bit at a loss for actually disecting this log though, as some data seems to be less usable than other bits.

So, this brings me to my final question. how do you guys like to log, 1 big file or start each time you're about to do a pull? Also, I'm going to read through 03's post again and see what he said he was logging, I remember someone said "oh, you should log....xyz" but i can't remember.

I've logged rpm, throttle position, coolant temp, battery level, air temp, timing advance, injector pulse width, injector D %, all the fuel trims (dunno why, default i guess), baro, air flow hz, airflow / rev, o2 sensor, knocksum, afr map, ecuload, and injector latency.

So, I'll go look at what I can find about what people like to log, but if you want to post about logging techniques you enjoy or what you feel is most important, let me know. I don't have the wideband in yet, and it probably won't do much good....but i'm still throwing the idea around of wiring it up beforehand just for grins to get some before and after logs.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #104  
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***UPDATE***

the TD05H found in evo 1.2.3 has an opening psi of 9
the TD05HR foud in evo 4.5.6.7.8.9 has an opening psi in range of 11 to 16
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #105  
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Sweet man ur learning about tuning from what I Read your suppose to do different logs like when your in boost or when your doing a pull etc keep them different so you know what to change on your ecu when the time comes I'm buying my tactrix cable next month when i get more money how much did that cost you?
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