*Update* Building phase is complete - Total Cost is about $2250
Tuning phase underway

Like so many others, I'm jumping on the bandwagon. I've PM'ed a few of you about used parts, and will continue you to. Just to give you an idea, I'll list the same parts everyone else is using with a few questions.

Splitting the list into 4 stages, for cost and tuning ease (why change too many variables at once...ty 03lances):

FYI, a "#" in front of an item means I bought it, anything else....tell me if you have it.

Stage 0 ...getting ready, no boost yet

#Tactrix openport 2 and evoscan - $185
#Glowshift boost and EGT gauges and A-pillar - $210
#SR*S ebay exhaust... - $218

Stage 1 : (5-7psi boost)

#stock evo 8 16g6 turbo (9.8th) w/ jpipe / o2 manifold - $220
#SpeedCorps 4g94 Manifold - $275
#Stock evo8 Downpipe - $40
#Magnaflow 13" overall length catalytic converter with O2 sensor hole - 65
#2.5" exhaust flanges to make a custom cat that bolts into place - 6 for $20
#Forge wastegate actuator and 5-10 psi spring - $90
#Stock evo 8 Intercooler and Stock piping - $105
#Perrin intake tube with my MAF and K&N filter - $75
#Stock 8 plastic BoV to start with - $25 - nipple snapped off....cheap crap
#Stock 9 Metal BoV - $60
#Radiator hose to connect BOV - $10
#AEM EUGO Wideband w/ gauge and logging output- $200
#Evo8 battery tray - $25
#Evo8 MAF - $47
#Oil pan tap and "stuff" - $22
#Vacuum hose - $5
#Vacuum T's - $10
#Spark non-fouler - $5
#3/8bspt to 4an - $15
#48" 4an oil feed with 45 degree on one end - $25
#many gaskets and bolts and such - $40
#Cajun T-bolt clamps - $22
#Stainless braided return hose - $15
#45 degree 1/2npt to 5/8" hose barb - $20
#2 x 12inch slim fan - $50
#4 x NGK BKR7E spark plugs - $16
#1 gallon Royal Purple 5w-30 ...that's right, synthetic....don't tell me it's why my engine blew when my engine does blow - $30
#1 Fram oil filter - $16
#2 gallon Antifreeze (only needed less than 1)- $20
#Cody's help on a weekend - Taco Cabana lunches

Stage 2 : (8-11 psi)

ARP Headstuds - 100
#Evo IX Fuel pump - $40 - doesn't fit, get a walbro or EvoX pump
#WRX 440's - $65 - going ahead and getting them now, they are actually from a Saab...so who knows what will happen, lol
xTreme ACT clutch - $350
Fidanza Light Flywheel - $340

Stage 3 : (12+ psi)

Forged pistons and rods - $1200 with bearings and rings
Gaskets to go with - $200

I hate to be one of "those guys" who makes another post, but I figure I can't keep blabbing to my wife and friends/co-workers or they'll strangle me soon.

Questions Section....

Answered Questions Section...
How does the evo9 bov sound? sounds good I think, ty youtube!
Do I need the FPR with the WRX injectors? FPR is a bandaid for fuel tuning with a tactrix cable
Has anyone cut the 4g63 flange off, welded a 4g94 on and been totally happy with it? Some have and most are happy, but most did extra work, like porting the holes, etc
If I weld onto the the 4g63, do I for sure need to get new bolts to make it fit the extra width? Probably
Has anyone been really happy with the eManage? Most are happiest with ecuflash
If I am going to take the car to a shop, and get them to help me tune it, what helps them/me get the best tune as far as ECU's go. I've been paying attention to the evo8 flash post, is that frowned upon by tuning shops? like...bootleg software sort of? Depends on the shop, and no one frowns on the ecu flash...cept maybe mitsubishi cause I didn't buy an evo from them
Is 290 too much to pay for a custom tune? it's reasonable, but not totally necessary if I want to learn to tune myself
Important turbo buying points? low miles, get jpipe, get o2 housing if you can, must replace WGA
Do you feel that an EGT monitor is necessary, even with an AFR wideband gauge? (at a certain upper psi limit, maybe 12, does it become vital?) It's as necessary as you want to feel safe...not scared of blowing up? skimp on the 100 dollar gauge. If you want to know how close you are to going boom, go ahead and get one.
Do the larger maps in the evo rom help at lower boost levels, or cause more confusion during (initial) tuning? Hell yes they do, also the ECU is meant to handle boost, so you don't have to bandaid MAF scaling because of leaning out on the top end
How do you guys feel on the highway, just driving an hour to see a friend. Does the car seem "unhappy" sitting at 3500 rpm's doing 80 mph for extended amounts of time? Car runs fine, because you're just lightly on the pedal...no real problems to speak of. The turbo actually kinda helps some people, as far as gas millage
Does the stock EVO8 BOV have trouble at low psi, causing compressor surge...if so, how do I detect that, stalling? flames coming from the compressor? spring being stiffer than our low boost engines can "activate" make surge a possibility. Bad for the turbo, sounds like the bov is "fluttering". Still, it's plenty good for most people, as the spring is only there to hold the BOV closed slightly, vacuum and boost pressure differences are really what should be holding it closed or open, not the spring
Are ARP headstuds necessary at 5-7 psi? Not really, but safety first, right? Some have run up to 15psi and broken rods before lifting the head...in either case, your engine is ruined most likely
How heavy was the head when you removed it to replace them, and can I pick it up with just a buddy (no engine "lift")? Probably could do it single even, just takes the "know how" to make it happen...and follow the service manuals

My goal is, like most to run 7...maybe 8...maybe 9 psi. I'm one of those guys who always seems to say, "ok, just a little more" but in a safe manner.

*One more Edit, more parts!* - Oil and stuff like that, fuel stuff is coming in, still figuring out the "cat" situation.
*Edit again!* - All the big parts are on order or already here. Now, I need the little things....anything to add to my "little things" list?
*edit* just updated parts list, split into 4 phases - made 4 used part purchases this morning...just getting warmed up!

*EDIT* The car runs again. Cody and I did the install Halloween weekend, and it's all in there. I'm updating the first post with pics of the entire process.

 

^^^

 

Well, I think you hit on 2 points that might work together. The tuner shop specializes in WRX and EVO's, so perhaps the "evo rom" may just be the ticket. As far as charging per hour vs a one shot tune charge, this is for the whole thing....but I am pretty sure if they feel like I've given them something above the normal tune, they will charge more. 03lances really leaves me inspired to tune the thing myself once I get it up and going, but I'm still a bit scared of that. I'm an "IT Guy", but ECU's are a whole different ballgame than the network hardware I work on, lol.

 

If you understand how your engine works and understand the concepts of fuel injection there's no reason you couldn't tune it yourself. If you want your tune perfected from there then you can take it to a tuner and have them do what they do.

 

Yah man looks like you have a pretty good idea of what you are looking for out of your turbo setup.$200.00 for a tune is pretty reasonable yes being able to do it yourself would be awesome but tuning a vehicle is not for everybody. But if you need anything i have alot of extra parts from my turbo build that are for sale just pm me and ill give you a list. if you have any questions just let me know.
good luck

 

Sounds like you have done some homework and are well on your way to boost . One thing I always recommend to people who want to tune themselves is leave the stock injectors in until you get your maf scaling correct for your new intake setup and that will make tuning the 440's wayyyyyyyyyyyy easier. I really wish someone would have told me this when I first turbo'ed but oh well live and learn. Turbo'ed lancer in alot of fun though lemme tell you, little side tale. Today I had to drive about an hour away to an appointment, well on the way a cobalt SS rolled up on me and well... provoked me so I showed him what our SOHC turbos can do and left him about 10 car lengths behind at about 120 it was fun

 

I HATE YOU!!! LOL I cannot wait to go turbo. im just waiting on my parts to come in this week and it should be completed next week or two I just need to find a place to install at.

Also everything on your parts list looks pretty good, I was concerned about the sound of the 9 BOV but I looked it up on youtube and it sounds pretty good. If you need any help on your build just let us know and good job doing your homework most people dont and just ask alot of questions " I was that guy until I was told to do my homework or have a slow car for the rest of your life lol" Also keep in mind of my build as well on Lancer es turbo project, I should be installing like I said within the next week and a half.

About tuning, im still reading on how to do it but its so confusing, but what I did was I bought a rom on here and im going to use that as a base tune and probably just have someone tune it for me. But Make sure you have a cable to log your cars info 03lance just told me that not that long ago. But everyone here has helped a ton with my project but the best part is for me its only just the beginning

 

Fair enough, change as few variables at once I guess. If I am going to tune myself, which it's starting to feel like the better choice, the reason I'll need to MAF scale is because of the evo rom, right? I'm planning to keep my stock MAF, for now at least, while at low boost lvls. Also, speaking of hour long drives, any negative effects having a turbo on? Do you see things like, the turbo heating up too much because you're at 80 mph for an extended period of time or anything like that?

03lances....I hate to put too much pressure on you, but you might be the greatest influence on me to go turbo! Mostly due to your incredible build thread. Keep the stories coming man, those bits of fun and speed during an otherwise boring day at the office are what I'm striving for.

 

I have pm'd about 10 different people asking for as much info on their turbo as possible. Seems like prices are fairly standard. Anyone who is selling usually tells me the following:

Mileage when the turbo was removed
That there is no shaft play
That there are no oil leaks
That they are including the o2 housing, manifold, hoses, WGA, etc

Of these things, what do I need to be looking at the most, do you think? I think I'd like the o2 housing for sure, right? manifold is a toss up, since I think I'm going to go with the speedcorps one. hoses probably should be fresh and new (and won't fit as is anyways), The WGA...I kind of thing I'll just be getting an aftermarket, because the spring can't be adjusted on the stock one to a lower pressure (or can it...).

thoughts? hints? advice?

 

Go for a turbo that has less than 20k, mine has 22 and is still in awesome condition, No shaft play of course!!!, The turbo shouldnt leak oil regardless, dont worry about a O2 housing, hoses, manifold etc... make sure you get one that has the compressor outlet or that little blakc J pipe trust me it took me 4 months to find one and I bought it overseas. you can get the manifold from speed corps, hoses from napa autoparts, and the O2 housing off ebay for $50.00 thats already ported I have pics of it connected on my turbo it looks really good. But this is what I did so if anyone wants to jump in with thier opinions please do so. oh yeah and almost forgot your wga you can get from speed corps, or MAP performance what ever you decide. I had some problems with getting the right one since someone shipped me an evo 9 when they told me it was an 8...

 

Manifold is not needed o2 housing is your preference if your gonna use a stock one might as well find a turbo with one to save on shipping. Wga is not needed as you will need an aftermarket one to run less than 18 pounds of boost. If you can find one with the return oil line that will make things a little easier the rest are not needed as they won't help. Definately find a low mileage mine had 13k and looked brand new. J pipe as Steven stated is alot easier to come by with a turbo rather than by itself.

 

Thank you for that advice, I will get one with the J. I talked to speedcorps, and they can get me a mani I think, so no reason to fuss with the stock one. As far as everything else, the oil return and o2 housing is really all I can use....so I'll just get the best low mileage one I can, with those things in mind as well. Hopefully I'll get it purchased tomorrow or friday! so many ppl are trying to get rid of them these days it seems, I guess due to the age, 03 or whatever.

 

I added a separated part list, in 4 stages, and updated my questions section. Also, I put my short-shifter in, and replaced the boot....that has nothing to do with my turbo thread, but darn it if it isn't pretty!

 

I bought the following today...very exciting:
stock 8 Intercooler and piping
16g6 turbo
o2 housing
oil feed that comes on it stock
oil return
jpipe
oem downpipe
evo8 "plastic" bov /wince

I updated my first page with fuel requirements...though I don't think I fully understand them. If copying the RRM kit, the walbro and vortech 12:1 fmu should be ok.

Is getting the walbro and using an aem 25-300 an alternative to this, since it increases fuel pressure under boost, making the fmu un-needed? I know I read a thread about this somewhere, and now I can't find it (someone's build thread). If you know where that was, point me there if you don't mind.

Also, if you just want to add "I would..." that would be helpful as well. Like...if I plan to initially run 5psi, just to warm up and really learn to tune nicely, I still need the walbro and something increase pressure, true?

 

I thought at first I needed a rising rate fpr but have since found its not needed, at least if your going to run the wrx 440s. I have the walbro and 440s with stock fpr and fuel rail and right now I am getting wayyyy too much fuel working on leaning it out some. I have been going back and forth on this but I like a challenge and knew this would be one since I have never done anything remotely close to this