hahahahaa I set myself up for that one watch this be someones signature now

 

Ya sorry guys I went through my thread because I had a couple people say they could not find it and wouldnt you know it I didnt post it lol here you go. Its just a simple bracket that bolts onto both flanges. My exhaust supports some of the turbo weight then this bracket helps too.

 

I see your threading for the egt gauge is in the first runner, I placed mine in the second is that going to be a big deal or will it be the same as yours?

 

It's better to have the EGT probe in the first runner on our engines since it is the farthest runner away from the throttle body opening.

 

well that sucks to be me right now I just threaded it in the 2nd runner, will my temps be higher than normal or will it be right on?

 

I think reading from the 2nd runner will show lower numbers. The reason why I'll use the first, is so that the hottest (or most prone to going lean) temp from a runner will be shown. That way I don't think I'm at 1200 when I'm really hotter or something like that.

 

well I figured to get the most accurate number was to put it in the middle which is where most of the heat source should be located, but either way it should be fine no way to move it now

 

Ya I would not worry about it. To be honest before I went turbo alot of people told me to put it on the second runner. The only reason I didnt was to make it easier for my welder

 

I think it's a "you say tomato, I say tomato" kind of thing...best case would be 4 gauges, 1 in each runner...but how silly would that look?!?! I'm already going to feel like a dork with 3 gauges.

I got the AEM Uego wideband, glowshift "electronic" boost gauge, and the glowshift EGT gauge/sensor. Both glow's are the elite 10 series, and I can not WAIT for them to get here. I think I want to tap my stock exhaust and see what the temps are, so that I have a baseline...and having it all wired up and working before install day would be nice too.

 

Walbro 255 pump or do you think I could do OK with an evo9 stock pump?

 

Well I don't know the physical size but the flow would be there no problem.

 

so, I'm slightly gambling on the fuel pump. I can't tell for sure if people have tried using it, or if it fits....but it sure looks the exact same size as the walbro. I got one on order and will find out soon enough if it fits. Apparently flow is similar to a walbro, slightly less, but fuel doesn't "cut" like the evo8 pump does. Many cars that use a walbro 255 like our lancers, also have people buying up evo 8/9 pumps and using them instead to save money. If it doesn't work, I'll resell it I guess, lol.

 

Oh happy wednesday, the manifold came in, slim fans, AEM Uego, Hose barb, and oil fitting for the bolt near the oil filter. It's all coming together! I need to get me some bolts that fit on the mani to the turbo, some bolts (springs?) to join up the exhaust downpipe, some vacuum tube and t's, some new oil and coolant, an oil filter, the hose from bov to upper, oil drain hose, and maybe the oil pan gasket or sealant goop or whatever it is.

Does anyone know what that stuff is I seal the oil pan up with is called? I know it's in steven's thread...I'll go look there, lol.

Also, my gauges and the A-pillar come in tomorrow. The openport comes in tomorrow, and the WGA spring will show up sometime next week I think.

All in all...lookin good. I decided against using ARP headstuds because I like to live dangerously, and I will only be going to 6lbs for at least a couple months to a year. I realize that isn't necessarily a good arguement but I use what I've got, right?

Does anyone happen to know what happens if I don't use headstuds, and the worst possible scenario happens...what that worst possible is? Would it be a "blown headgasket"? Or does worse happen, like rods and pistons breaking because of coolant or maybe even worse than that??

 

If your head lifts its almost certain annihilation of engine. You will bend or break pistons and rods and time for new engine. Unlikely you will lift it at 6psi but not impossible and if your like me you will hit your target psi and it will be hard not to just crank up the boost and keep tuning. I didn't stay at 5 psi long knowingg I had to do was crank that knob and continue tuning to gain that much again in power. My 2 cents

 

So....my question then is by "annihilation" lets pretend pistons and rods both just shatter to millions of pieces. I'm assuming more needs to be done to repair that damage, so do people usually just buy a new engine? or do they replace the pistons and rods with nice solid ones and run more boost? I guess I'm just curious if it's worth risking it, knowing I'll need to spend money to fix it. I guess if I have plans to put about 1100 in to pistons and rods later down the line, I should replace the headbolts then? and stick to my 6-7 psi now, with stock?