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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #196  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by steven121
i hope its not the plastic bro... there cheap things ready to break thats why when i read these forums they told me get the metal one
oh steven....you have no idea man. I did already break my plastic one. Anderson drives to autozone, holds up bov and says "do you have vacuum hose this size (points to nipple of bov)?" Guy behind the counter says "can I see that to compare?". Reluctantly, Anderson hands the BOV to store clerk, who promptly drops the valve straight to the ground....."Oh man, did I break it?".......yes, yes you did sir...yes you did

On a side note, the reason I had to change my underpants earlier (exaggeration for effect), was I have finally worked my way up to about 5psi....and I blew one of my intercooler pipes off, even with tbolts. I may have not tightened that one all the way down, so I have not, and hopefully that does it. Anyhow, while in the garage, I did a boost leak test (should have a long time ago...but that's neither here nor there), and my t's on the vacuum hose were indeed leaking. I ran some new, and it looks much better now. I am pretty sure that all the logs I took today are basically no good, since that pipe was probably leaking some air in and throwing my results off. Anyhow, back out I go...
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 08:32 PM
  #197  
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I should know not to blindly trust people by now....but whatever. I've logged the car a few times now with the turbo on, maybe 15 or so. Each time I feel like I get a little closer, but the 2 most obvious things so far in terms of progress are when i realized that the timing map is actually the HIGH octane map being used, which was discovered yesterday....and then that the HIGH octane fuel map is also being used. I have heard all over the forum that the base lancer uses the low octane maps, and I just took that as fact. Anyhow, I've updated the high/low to match, at least while I'm tuning, and then once I'm done, I'll drop the low a bit for safety incase it gets referenced like the evo ones do under heavy knock or whatever.

If I didn't say it earlier, I am pretty happy now that I feel like I've got the boost leaks gone.....and the exhaust isn't bumping the bumper anymore. Can't wait until the weekend where I have all day long to tune.

Figured I'd throw this in, but I am glad I have the EGT gauge, it really is somewhat helpful. I see it as a measure of how I'm doing tune wise, since if the car is lean, I have that gauge to tell me how hot I'm getting....and I can keep an eye on it, and know not to just keep going from 2k-4k rpm over again if it's too hot. It's like, one more thing to see, and help with whatevs. Still, single most effective tool is wideband, and maybe evoscan being able to audibly say "WARNING, severe engine knock detected" Although it bothers me that I see 4 counts of knock every so often at like 40 load, just cruising along, for no real reason and then it's gone in an instant.
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Old Nov 4, 2010 | 11:25 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
I should know not to blindly trust people by now....but whatever. I've logged the car a few times now with the turbo on, maybe 15 or so. Each time I feel like I get a little closer, but the 2 most obvious things so far in terms of progress are when i realized that the timing map is actually the HIGH octane map being used, which was discovered yesterday....and then that the HIGH octane fuel map is also being used. I have heard all over the forum that the base lancer uses the low octane maps, and I just took that as fact. Anyhow, I've updated the high/low to match, at least while I'm tuning, and then once I'm done, I'll drop the low a bit for safety incase it gets referenced like the evo ones do under heavy knock or whatever.

If I didn't say it earlier, I am pretty happy now that I feel like I've got the boost leaks gone.....and the exhaust isn't bumping the bumper anymore. Can't wait until the weekend where I have all day long to tune.

Figured I'd throw this in, but I am glad I have the EGT gauge, it really is somewhat helpful. I see it as a measure of how I'm doing tune wise, since if the car is lean, I have that gauge to tell me how hot I'm getting....and I can keep an eye on it, and know not to just keep going from 2k-4k rpm over again if it's too hot. It's like, one more thing to see, and help with whatevs. Still, single most effective tool is wideband, and maybe evoscan being able to audibly say "WARNING, severe engine knock detected" Although it bothers me that I see 4 counts of knock every so often at like 40 load, just cruising along, for no real reason and then it's gone in an instant.
Sounds like your figuring this thing out just fine. I agree I love having the EGT and the WB. I can use the EGT for my forced open loop. I can make sure I am not running too lean while cruising by watching my temps
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 04:59 PM
  #199  
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What I am seeing now, is that I press throttle to like, 60% or so and I get perfect AFR's for entering boost. If I keep it there, I see good AFR's all the way through the RPM's. If I press down to say...70%, I see the same load, but the AFR's are significantly higher. This makes me think I need the EVO rom, or atleast need to give it a shot. I have a good idea of where my timing should be, so I feel like I can safely flash the tephra and at least give it a low low low load drive. We'll see though, I'm freakin scared to death my engine is gonna go boom though, so you guys must have like ***** of steel or something. I kind of wish I had a tuner friend, or whatever to help me along the process and be my second set of eyes. The "Cobb Tuning Meet Up" was a good start, because I got to mix with a lot of the guys in Austin who are in the whole tuning scene, but we'll see how I do.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
What I am seeing now, is that I press throttle to like, 60% or so and I get perfect AFR's for entering boost. If I keep it there, I see good AFR's all the way through the RPM's. If I press down to say...70%, I see the same load, but the AFR's are significantly higher. This makes me think I need the EVO rom, or atleast need to give it a shot. I have a good idea of where my timing should be, so I feel like I can safely flash the tephra and at least give it a low low low load drive. We'll see though, I'm freakin scared to death my engine is gonna go boom though, so you guys must have like ***** of steel or something. I kind of wish I had a tuner friend, or whatever to help me along the process and be my second set of eyes. The "Cobb Tuning Meet Up" was a good start, because I got to mix with a lot of the guys in Austin who are in the whole tuning scene, but we'll see how I do.
Welcome to my world lol. Anybody I know and see on a daily or even weekly basis knows squat about tuning. I have many friends with turbo cars but even though they understand the mechanical aspect, when it comes to the tuning aspect of it they dont even try they take it up to the pros which leaves me to fend for myself. This is why I love this forum for its support. I noticed your same issue with the lancer rom. Can you tell me this, even though the load is the same what does your airflow show? If it shows higher values which I assume it does this means you can up the maf scaling in that area of airflow and that will lower your afrs despite being in the same load area.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
What I am seeing now, is that I press throttle to like, 60% or so and I get perfect AFR's for entering boost. If I keep it there, I see good AFR's all the way through the RPM's. If I press down to say...70%, I see the same load, but the AFR's are significantly higher. This makes me think I need the EVO rom, or atleast need to give it a shot. I have a good idea of where my timing should be, so I feel like I can safely flash the tephra and at least give it a low low low load drive. We'll see though, I'm freakin scared to death my engine is gonna go boom though, so you guys must have like ***** of steel or something. I kind of wish I had a tuner friend, or whatever to help me along the process and be my second set of eyes. The "Cobb Tuning Meet Up" was a good start, because I got to mix with a lot of the guys in Austin who are in the whole tuning scene, but we'll see how I do.
I notice the same thing to but with the tephra rom I can hit about 50-70% on the throttle and get a good pull in but it seems like when I get close to 80-100% it picks up and then sometimes I will see the afrs jump up to 12.5 and back down kinda like what I had before but im thinking its spark plugs I have them gapped aroun .18, maybe I need to get some iridiums and gap them to .20-.25
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:51 PM
  #202  
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Well, airflow does change, so I'm remembering the thread "lean at upper RPM" or something like that where there was a huge discussion on maf scaling. I might need to approach that, because as I increase in the RPM's, my "AFRMAP" shows 10.01, and that's as low as it will go no matter what I put in the fuel map...that's rock bottom. So as I hit boost, i'm at like, 11 or something, and then AFR's crawl up as RPM increase. I need to figure that out next, but it sounds like the Tephra won't solve that...perhaps the evo MAF would. Meh, I'll worry about it tomorrow. I know I've researched all this, but it's been sitting a while, so some of that knowledge just leaks out onto the floor.
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 09:28 PM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Well, airflow does change, so I'm remembering the thread "lean at upper RPM" or something like that where there was a huge discussion on maf scaling. I might need to approach that, because as I increase in the RPM's, my "AFRMAP" shows 10.01, and that's as low as it will go no matter what I put in the fuel map...that's rock bottom. So as I hit boost, i'm at like, 11 or something, and then AFR's crawl up as RPM increase. I need to figure that out next, but it sounds like the Tephra won't solve that...perhaps the evo MAF would. Meh, I'll worry about it tomorrow. I know I've researched all this, but it's been sitting a while, so some of that knowledge just leaks out onto the floor.
I discovered this too. I made a thread after discovering this.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...g-too-low.html

It was this thread that lead to flashing the evo rom into the lancer ecu
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 10:54 PM
  #204  
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this is what I read, scale your injectors 15-20 percent from there rated flow

mine are 880cc
so that means scale them between 704-748

mine are scaled right now at 750, but im about to lower them probably by a tad because my ltft is around i think +7.00 im not sure im at work so its hard to think
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Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by steven121
this is what I read, scale your injectors 15-20 percent from there rated flow

mine are 880cc
so that means scale them between 704-748

mine are scaled right now at 750, but im about to lower them probably by a tad because my ltft is around i think +7.00 im not sure im at work so its hard to think
I have always heard around 10% and took it as law for some time until I exhausted all other possiblities trying to solve the same issue Anderson is facing today. Using Aarons procedure to scale my injectors brought me to a scaling of 360 with my 440s which is about 19% below rated flow and this fixed every lean issue I had and my car runs, idles, cruises and boosts awesome now as far as fueling is concerned. Only reason I did not change it sooner is everything I read said scaling this far below would bring me many other issues with idling and trims etc.
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 10:33 AM
  #206  
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OK, really good advice/threads all around. I need to adjust my MAF scaling and see if I can make AFR's stay smooth through the whole pull. If I can, then I'll put the Tephra ROM on, and then work any kinks out there. After that, I'll put the WRX injectors in.



*Update* Um, so the MAF scaling was for sure my issue with running lean into the higher RPM's. I guess when I read the thread "Lean on Boost" I thought that I would be boosting such low PSI, compared to those guys, that it wouldn't affect me. Well, it does, and I've done the first/second adjustments to straighten that out. I definitely put myself in an awkward spot, because I made changes to the AFR table so much so that I am fluctuation a bunch between 10.5 and 12.5 depending on Airflow. I may put the "stock" fuel map back in, and try to get my AFR's right using only the MAF scaling, that might be the best way to continue tuning nicely with as few variables as possible.....meditate on this, I must.

Overall though, lots of fun to be making progress, it's a good feeling. Also, 2 separate dudes talked to me today, and said basically the same thing. "So, you installed it all, and you are tuning it yourself as well????" I definitely responded that I couldn't have done it without the help of random internet people....so, big thank you to everyone whose been so involved through the forum so far.

Shout out to 03lances who gave me the courage through his build and pics, Steven who basically went through the same issues, mitsu.kid who asks some of the questions I'm not ready to, and then the genius of our "forefathers" like senate, roadspike, and all those guys who did the custom turbo before it became trendy.

....the tuning continues. Maybe I should post a little vid up, I'll see if Cody will record for me, since I don't want to record while driving.



Most important question all day.....
Should I need to scale my injectors, because my low fuel trim is hitting 12.5. It has been positive this whole time, but the last log it's maxed I think, if 12.5 is maxx. They are still the stock ones until I get a base tune, then I'll swap them in.

Last edited by HornstarBU; Nov 6, 2010 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #207  
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Wow...just flashed the tephra I've been working on for ages now, but didn't want to flash until I had a good running tune. Well, I decided it may just be time to do it. So, I double checked everything, and noticed the injector scalings didn't look right, for the batter compensation stuff. Anyhow, long story short, I flashed it, idled, and it ran like, 10 rich at idle. Went for a very low low low throttle drive down the street after I let it idle for 10 minutes or so without moving. I noticed the injector pulse width was like, double my stock lancer logs. Went back to check the injector battery comp, and the left column had changed radically. It was basically like the left column shifted down one, so I re-pasted, and it looks fine now....but WTF was that, like the table in ecuflash was wrong, I closed, opened, and then like magic it was right? Bah....I'ma double check again because wtf, I may have fubbed something else.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 06:00 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by 03lances
I have always heard around 10% and took it as law for some time until I exhausted all other possiblities trying to solve the same issue Anderson is facing today. Using Aarons procedure to scale my injectors brought me to a scaling of 360 with my 440s which is about 19% below rated flow and this fixed every lean issue I had and my car runs, idles, cruises and boosts awesome now as far as fueling is concerned. Only reason I did not change it sooner is everything I read said scaling this far below would bring me many other issues with idling and trims etc.
well when you start yours up does it go lean to 17.0 and after a few minutes of idle it goes back to normal stoich?

if not what is the theory to scaling and tuning your latency? I got my Ltfts right but im think something went wrong when telling roadspike what happened over the phone

Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Wow...just flashed the tephra I've been working on for ages now, but didn't want to flash until I had a good running tune. Well, I decided it may just be time to do it. So, I double checked everything, and noticed the injector scalings didn't look right, for the batter compensation stuff. Anyhow, long story short, I flashed it, idled, and it ran like, 10 rich at idle. Went for a very low low low throttle drive down the street after I let it idle for 10 minutes or so without moving. I noticed the injector pulse width was like, double my stock lancer logs. Went back to check the injector battery comp, and the left column had changed radically. It was basically like the left column shifted down one, so I re-pasted, and it looks fine now....but WTF was that, like the table in ecuflash was wrong, I closed, opened, and then like magic it was right? Bah....I'ma double check again because wtf, I may have fubbed something else.

if you used my tephra rom thats the problem....
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #209  
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I'ma lil pissed at evo roms...I can't even drive without hearing my PC yell KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK detected. I've got the same settings as mitsu.kid, which as I understand are the same settings as the base lancer rom....and at the same "ecuload", which coresponds well to load1B, and RPM I've got some timing, we'll say 21 for arguements sake. With the base lancer rom....no knock, with the evo rom...22 counts. Pulled 2 degrees there and smoothed all around....9 counts....pulled 2 degrees, there and made it smooth, 12 counts. This is all just riding along mind you, not accelerating, just keeping velocity. It didn't do it at first, and then the longer I drove the quicker it would start knocking when i hold, say 30 mph. Doesn't matter which gear, but if I just hold it after the knock, my pc just keeps beepin at me, because the knock doesn't stop.

I dun get it, but that's why I wanted a working lancer rom so I'd know if I got bogus results. As far as this one though, the evo rom does waaay better as I go into open loop at putting basically, exactly what's in the fuel table. I didn't have this knock issue at first, and I pushed about...40% throttle or so, just enough to touch boost, and my wideband instantly stuck on 12.4.....no dipping rich, no this that...just stuck. I did it a few times at different RPM's, so I know that the evo rom is going to solve all my problems and deliver world peace....but damn that knock sensor.

Oh, and all the knock seems to be at 2250 rpm, or very near. Using the stock knock sensor settings, I see even more insane numbers, like stock evo numbers.

*Edit* Wait, ok....one more piece of info. Everything is the same, timing, rpm, load, airflow, all of it.....except for injector duty cycle....which is approx double for the log of the tephra rom. Now, I initially flashed the wrong injector scaling, and the car ran "10 rich" when idling. After fixing that though, it idles fine at 14.7, cruise is at 14.7, if I put it into openloop, the AFR is right where it should be.....thoughts anyone? I'm prolly doing something stupid, but whatevs. I'll post a log or 3 if you want.

*Bah, like edit #15* My final thought before bed is that the timing is "off" because load falls in a different region than it did before. While airflow, and load seem to compare and match up with injector duty%, as well as other data like MAP loggin and what not....but, the difference is that I barely touched the pedal, and see that I've got a 115% load logged, no knock, but that's about 15% higher than any of my previous runs...and on those I was pushing down much more. Thinking it is timing related, just hard to find a starting spot.

Last edited by HornstarBU; Nov 9, 2010 at 08:31 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 09:44 PM
  #210  
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I would imagine if your load is higher now wouldn't you think it would be even safer with less knock? The higher the load the lower the timing should be. This is why for months now I have been slowly adjusting my knock settings. it will still very much so flash at knock as you all heard in my vid but I am starting to filter out a lot of the false or phantom knock.
Steven I do have an idle afr issue but I believe mine is due to me being in forced open loop. I run anywhere from 15-16 at cold idle and then anywhere from 11-12 and warm idle. Wayyyyyy to rich I have to figure this out too but its not as concerning to me as that darn fast shift knock issue
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