buy the engineeeeee

 

I'm not sure how...but the cash for the buick is in the wife's account....I guess that's business as usual though.

Aside from that, my damn throttle cable seems to be melting under the extreme heat coming off of those dang headers/exhaust manifold. Anyone else have a similar problem? How much heat is too much?

 

Do you have an egt gauge??? I run about 1100 running around town and maybe 12-1300 on the highway. Wot is around 15-1600. I have not had any issue with anything melting and my oil dipstick is like 1/2" from my header

 

Same here, my dipstick is literally less than or right at 1 inch from my headers! How is your cable routed?? Pics?

 

Dipstick seems fine, but the throttle cable does a "U" from the throttle body and attaches to the left mount on the valve cover with that little metal bracket thingie. From there, it loops back toward the firewall and into the cabin to attach to the pedal. The part right above the exhaust manifold was actually "dripping" off of the cable almost after a drive earlier.

As far as EGT's, about 1100 cruising around, maybe 1250 at the highest so far....but I haven't done full on WOT yet, just like 60% throttle or so.

 

This is how mine is I am missing the drivers side throttle cable clip but have not had any issues. This is a pic from my build thats why the cable isnt clipped in.

 

Right at the top right of your leftmost box, there is a connection from something that attaches there to the valve cover. That thing has a circle around it where it looks like a stress fracture, and although my engine never shows "overheating" either in the coolant temps of the logs, or my temp gauge in the cluster....I guess it's possible the valve cover is getting too hot and cracking? I didn't inspect it all that well before the install, so it may have been that way. dunno.

 

Thats the PCV valve. Did you buy your car new? If I had to guess I would say its something that has always been there and someone tried to change the pcv valve and cracked the cover removing it. It flexes really easy just grabbing it and putting pressure on it.

 

i had my throttle cable melt before when i first went turbo so my solution was to route the cable through the back on the engine

 

I just bent my dipstick tube away some and it's been fine. I also tucked the throttle cable behind the spark plug wires.

 

My throttle cable also melted so i just got another clip for the cable on the valve cover to make it hang higher !

 

Link62 and 02-lancer-es have real good ideas for re-routing the throttle cable, i might actually do that, i dont have a problem right now, but something to do, and it cant hurt!

So i think i narrowed it down to "high knock in low RPM's" atleast for me, 2 possible problems i could think of, also, kept timing the same, got it to not knock, or 1 count highest when MAF values were stock, then proceeded to scale the MAF sensor:

1) Scalling the MAF values too low, causing a rich mixture in vac (closed loop), causing excessive knock under light loads maybe? or...

2) Open loop vs MAF scaling, happening too soon. Open loop occurs too early, in vacuum, causing a rich mixture from the MAF scaling, causing knock under light load.

Yesterday i took some logs and they were ok, no high knock everything was 5 or lower, still it needs to be free of knock, but it seems to be getting better. I need to figure out however, if im hitting open loop to soon, causing knock, or is it just MAF values scalled to high at too low of a value, ill have to look in the logs. Here are some if you wanna take a look as well, your input is always helpful

 

OK, no idea what the deal is with those maf scalings, but I say don't mess with them because those knock numbers go through the roof. One thing I did notice, is that the comparable airflow at rpm values shows about 20 more load for you than it does for me. Like, if I pushed the gas, and got to right where I was hitting boost, and you did the same, it appears that your load would read 110 or so, and mine would read 90 approx. Small thing, but it means that if I ran your timing, it probably wouldn't be safe for me, and if you ran mine, it'd probably make you lose power. I guess this is just one of those "there aren't standard maps you can just download on any lancer" answers.

So you're still too lean in boost? Can you mail me your latest map, let me know what AFR you are at and at what load you go lean, and how lean....and did you get that cable? they didn't give me a tracking number, but the lady said it'd be there wednesday or maybe friday if it took an extra long time.


*Edit* oh, yeah I did like the idea of routing the throttle cable behind the engine or up near the sparkies. Right now I just have a piece of thin coolant hose wrapped around the throttle cable held in place with 4 zipties, kinda like a lil ghetto heat shield. I'm buying another throttle cable whenever I can, and then routing it like the guys above....because mine has this sort of, like...scratching or rubbing wrong noise...maybe the rubber melted and it's just not moving smoothly through there. I think I felt bearing grease type stuff or lithium grease when I first bought the car (i did pick it up new, but I may have damaged the PCV nipple thing up top when I changed the gasket on my valve cover due to an oil leak), so maybe I just need to lube the ol' girl up again?

 

I got the cable bro, just havnt had time to install it, im shootin for this saturday to install. Ok what do you need for me to send you my fuel map, just my rom and xml?

 

Well...I felt this nice, sluggish feeling on the way home, and upon further inspection my timing map is just waaaay too reserved. I compared the old maps from the lancer to the ones in my tephra rom, and they just were too backed off. I'm bumping it all up a little, and then setting my knock thresholds way way low, like 0 or 10....and I'll just see what happens. I was tempted to just use yours 03lances, but...meh, too aggressive for me.

Oh, is it possible that the stupid retarding of ignition made my exhaust temps higher?