I need a good road to do pulls on. Mopac isn't dead flat, 35 is too crowded, the toll road...well it costs money since it's a toll road. Another thing is, 3rd gear takes me from 20 whatever to like 85mph....and at that point i'm really worried about getting a ticket or something.

Probably ought to do these things on a dyno...

I've decided I will go run around a little more today and log:

Throttle, RPM, Coolant Temp, Air Temp, Timing Adv, Injector Duty %, Speed, Gear, Knocksum, Load and then Est horsepower and torque just for fun.

 

might need to go out of town a an area withtout any possibility of other cars.

in bhm we use a hwy thats well traveled.. but we do it in the boonies, no residental or commerical around, between cities.. never seem to have any troubles, and normally we do it after dusk. since noones around we can stick to a 1/2 mile stretch abnd just keep turning around.. dont have to worri about anyone callin the cops for hearing the car going screaming down the street 20 times.

 

Since your not turbo'd yet here is what I would log for sure:
TPS, RPM, Knocksum, Ecuload, Timing advance. These are all you really need to get a good idea of how your engine runs stock plus the less you log the faster sample rate you will get. You dont need anything with fuel right now and as far as the airflow and whatnot thats not too bad to log too its nice to know the airflow your hitting at what loads to help with maf scaling when the time comes

 

Hey guys with a forge WGA...what's this hex screw on the pic here:



Also, I tested the actuator by hooking it up to my air compressor and pushing about 7 psi to it, and it opens up but not all the way. Should it? I opened it up to swap the spring out, and cleaned out the existing stuff then added a little bit of bearing lube since most of it that was there was gunky and dirty. How much should it open, all the way pushing the spring to the max?

*edit* would it help if i video the test to describe what i'm asking?

 

What size vacuum hose are you guys using, 10mm? and where do you get it? I got some 1/4" but it's super tiny, guess that's outside diameter, I probably need 1/4" inside?

 

I'm running 1/4" vaccum hose I guess that must be inside dameter cause its plenty big enough

 

Not only did they not have the right size vacuum tube at advanceautoparts....but the guy working the counter DROPPED my evo8 bov. needless to say, being that it's plastic, I no longer have a working BOV and I am back in the market for something. .....really pissed me off. he offered to give me his 20% discount on whatever I buy, which was all of 10 bucks, so I told him he can give me a raincheck. I'm thinking if I ever spend more than 100 bucks that'll be back to even on the deal, but dang it lets talk about some pain and suffering payment!!!

I wanted to be able to say "oh, don't listen to what everyone says, the evo8 bov works fine..." Well that crap is out the door and I'm getting something metal this time.

So, the things delaying my install right now are the obvious bov, a braided oil return hose that's on order, and the 1/4" ID vacuum hose that I'll be ordering. There is also the subject of painting my A-Pillar gauge pod thingie to match the rest of the interior, so I have plenty I can do while waiting for parts.

I guess since I'm feeling kind of down, maybe I'll go install the evo9 fuel pump and see how it fits.

Ugg, I was going to go out and do a little more logging but after the nipple snapped I didn't even feel like it.


*Edit* Just purchased an EvoIX metal bov...joining the crowd of people who told me to and I didn't listen. I urge anyone who reads this thread to go ahead and buy the metal bov over the plastic. Think of it this way, 35 for plastic or 70 for metal...1 plastic breaks and you buy another...that's the price of the metal one right there. I should have taken this advice.

 

ordered online or bought in a store? also, is it the "silicone" stuff that's all colored and flashy and what not, or just some standard black rubber vacuum hose?

 

dont worry i know what you mean by autozone ppl are idiots. last i was in one the associate that i was working with didnt even know what an o2 bung was. you should be able to goto any auto parts store and get 1/4" vacuum line. they should all stock it and usually sold by the foot.


josh

 

Yup just went to my local auto parts store 99 cents a foot plain black. I havent went back to that other auto parts store since I found I could have potentially messed up my 02 sensor lengthening that harness in the wrong spot.

 

Heh, cool. Thanks then, I'll check autozone this time since advanced didn't have any hose thick enough. What about oil return hose and coolant hose...I was about to order stuff online and it was going to be around 50 bucks for vacuum, coolant hose, and oil drain hose but I don't think it should be that much (shipping and all). So, just the thickest rubber hose for draining the oil I can find, or does it need to be braided steel too? Coolant should just be a standard thing too, in bulk quantities I'd think, so I'll give it a go today.

Thoughts on what I should be cautious of as far as hose for oil draining though?

*Edit*

Bought some steel braided hose from jegs, should be here in a few days. hopefully it doesn't melt or anything.

 

Make sure the. coolant and return line is oil resistant hose. I just got regular black oil resistant then wrapped my return line in header wrap.

 

Good news is that I know how to take my fuel pump out and put it back like the back of my hand.

Bad news is that an 8/9 fuel pump is too long to fit into the housing. a 10 looks just right from what I see by the pictures online...should have bought a 10, dern it.

 

Yup the Evo 8 and 9 pump is to long and the Evo X pump is perfect .
I have the 10 pump on my car .

 

Well dang, thanks for tellin me now! lol, nah, good call, we ought to have JRR add that in his evo compatibility post.

So, I've bought some vac tube, some coolant tube, the oil tube is on it's way, the evo9 bov is on order....things are really looking up after that smashed bov, I thought for a minute I might just say F'it until next month, but not so!

I painted my a-pillar to match the light gray of my interior, it's not exact though....and I hate that. I may remove all the middle and back ones just so i can paint everything and have it be identical.

<Important stuff here>
So, the downpipe is going to be my most problematic spot. As I've mentioned, I need to retain the cat just because of inspection reasons, and also my vegetarian wife might have a (for lack of a better word) cow. So, question is this. Has anyone taken their evo8 downpipe, and tried to bolt it directly up to the lancer cat? Has anyone taken an evo8 downpipe, connected it up to an evo8 cat, then connected that to the stock (by stock I mean the location, not necessarily the actual exhaust has to be stock) lancer exhaust? Has anyone removed the lancer cat, and connected the evo8 downpipe to the lancer stock exhaust using one of these and some tubing with 2.5" flanges?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-59925/

Basically, the real question is "Where does the downpipe sit after the turbo is connected on?" Everyone I have seen either has custom exhaust, or the one guy who doesn't has a test pipe chopped to about 8 inches that sits between the downpipe and the (what I assume is) stock lancer exhaust. Any official answer (to "distance between the evo8 DP installed and the lancer exhaust")? I'm not trying to avoid welding (cause cody will hook me up with that madness), I'm just tryin to make sure I have my ducks in a row before install day.
</Important stuff here>

Oh, feel free to thrown in anything about flange angles being different if you want, but that part I can at least eye-ball with my car jacked up, the rest I have to install the turbo/mani/downpipe to check. I'll be doing that sometime soon, just to make sure I'm all set, and so I know what to grind off the turbo, and how much. I want to have a really good idea what it's going to end up being, so if I know we're going to need to weld, I can get the parts I need ahead of time, and we'll just weld the section up with the cat at that time.

I guess very worst case scenario...i'll just cut my e-bay catback exhaust, that way the stock stuff can all go back in if i want it to. probably ought to swap out the cat for an "evo cat" or a universal 2.5" but I'm going to wait and see if anyone has good news on an easy to piece together combo.

*edit* final thought before bed, get 2 of these and weld one into a "testpipe" to make the connection with the stock exhaust, and then weld another into the ebay exhaust a little ways back? I hear from some honda guys they are REALLY high flow, as in you can smell the exhaust like you're almost catless. I really am not looking forward to inspection time after the turbo, lol....stupid austin and their stupid "green" everything.