Notices
Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

One more 16g thread - few questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 17, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #136  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
I went to install the gauges this evening, to make the actual install less work all at once.

The boost gauge sweeps from min to max, then back to min. Once I click the color or whatever, it goes into the "normal" mode....and in normal, the vacuum sort of oscillates between like 20-15hg, this is with the engine off, just powered on gauges. That doesn't seem normal to Anderson, any thoughts? I already e-mailed glowshift about it, to see if they think the gauge is faulty or anything. I can even unplug the little sensor thing (it's got an electronic boost/vac sender) and the needle still wiggles around, and not at 0.

Also, EGT gauge comes on blinking as expected, but then if I do the same thing as I do for the boost gauge. I click the high or low buttons once to get it to go into normal mode, but it doesn't. the gauge keeps blinking like it's waiting to be setup. I don't have the sensor connected to that gauge, so it's probably the reason it blinks, like it wants to see some heat or something so it knows it should start reading or whatever.

Anyhow, any thoughts on others with gloshift gauges?
Reply
Old Sep 18, 2010 | 12:22 AM
  #137  
03lances's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
I went to install the gauges this evening, to make the actual install less work all at once.

The boost gauge sweeps from min to max, then back to min. Once I click the color or whatever, it goes into the "normal" mode....and in normal, the vacuum sort of oscillates between like 20-15hg, this is with the engine off, just powered on gauges. That doesn't seem normal to Anderson, any thoughts? I already e-mailed glowshift about it, to see if they think the gauge is faulty or anything. I can even unplug the little sensor thing (it's got an electronic boost/vac sender) and the needle still wiggles around, and not at 0.

Also, EGT gauge comes on blinking as expected, but then if I do the same thing as I do for the boost gauge. I click the high or low buttons once to get it to go into normal mode, but it doesn't. the gauge keeps blinking like it's waiting to be setup. I don't have the sensor connected to that gauge, so it's probably the reason it blinks, like it wants to see some heat or something so it knows it should start reading or whatever.

Anyhow, any thoughts on others with gloshift gauges?
Those are both analog gauges? I have glowhift gauges and I love them. I think I have different models than you however. Mine will swing to max and back then the needle will go to wherever it needs to be at. If my engine is off my boost gauge is at 0, where it should be at. At idle it sits at about 20 vacuum. I am not sure what blinking you mean. My EGT does the same as my boost, needle sweeps to max and back then rises to the current temp. Definately sounds like you got at least one bunk gauge
Reply
Old Sep 18, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #138  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by 03lances
Those are both analog gauges? I have glowhift gauges and I love them. I think I have different models than you however. Mine will swing to max and back then the needle will go to wherever it needs to be at. If my engine is off my boost gauge is at 0, where it should be at. At idle it sits at about 20 vacuum. I am not sure what blinking you mean. My EGT does the same as my boost, needle sweeps to max and back then rises to the current temp. Definately sounds like you got at least one bunk gauge
Yeah, sweeps all the way up, then all the way back....I think the blinking means "I'm not set up yet" because I am not leaving a constant 12v to them, just wiring them to a 12v source for testing, so each time i power them on, it's like my battery was disconnected. Both are analog, elite 10 whites. The egt I guess I'm not going to say is bad yet, because it's not actually hooked up to a signal for the sensor yet. I read about a diseil guy who had the same issue and said "I finished hooking it up all the way, and it quit blinking" so that's probably a good sign. Boost though...not such a good sign, with or without the sensor connected, the needle bobs from -20 to -15 like it's in some sort of "demo" mode, but whatever....I'll just wait to see what glowshift says.
Reply
Old Sep 18, 2010 | 10:56 PM
  #139  
03lances's Avatar
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 2
From: West Coast WA
Ya as of now you cant come to any conclusions on the egt since you havent hooked it up yet. As far as the boost goes though even if you somehow had your vacuum line hooked up wrong to it it should still read 0 with the engine off no matter what.
Reply
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #140  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by 03lances
Ya as of now you cant come to any conclusions on the egt since you havent hooked it up yet. As far as the boost goes though even if you somehow had your vacuum line hooked up wrong to it it should still read 0 with the engine off no matter what.
So, I had some more fun this weekend with the gauges. The boost gauge is setup correctly I think, but still oscillates around a bunch. I contacted glowshift about the both of the gauges, and they said if the screen blinks it might not be connected properly as far as the egt gauge goes. The boost one they said they want me to send back so they can test it out and such. Anyhow, the wideband looks fine, from what I can tell and the sensor is wired up nicely so that as soon as I get the new downpipe in I can plug it up.

I'ma send back the boost gauge, wait to wire up the egt gauge till install day, and pray the wideband works alright. The more I think about it, I shoulda gotten an oil pressure gauge....probably more important.
Reply
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #141  
JRR's Avatar
JRR
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 0
From: South Central WI
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
The more I think about it, I shoulda gotten an oil pressure gauge....probably more important.
thats why i didnt get an egt gauge. no oil pressure will lead to *BOOM* faster than high egt...
Reply
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #142  
steven121's Avatar
Evolved Member
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (27)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 12
From: TX
Originally Posted by JRR
thats why i didnt get an egt gauge. no oil pressure will lead to *BOOM* faster than high egt...

josh I called greddy last week and they wont let me exchange it out, no matter what I told them there like no we have to know which company if came from with a receipt... is there any way I can buy the connection part from you or how much are you selling the the whole oil pressure set for?
Reply
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #143  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
So, I had some more fun this weekend with the gauges. The boost gauge is setup correctly I think, but still oscillates around a bunch. I contacted glowshift about the both of the gauges, and they said if the screen blinks it might not be connected properly as far as the egt gauge goes. The boost one they said they want me to send back so they can test it out and such. Anyhow, the wideband looks fine, from what I can tell and the sensor is wired up nicely so that as soon as I get the new downpipe in I can plug it up.

I'ma send back the boost gauge, wait to wire up the egt gauge till install day, and pray the wideband works alright. The more I think about it, I shoulda gotten an oil pressure gauge....probably more important.
All the gauges are plugged in, wired up and working correctly (except that the wideband isn't actually connected and screwed into my downpipe, since I only have 1 o2 bung, and no real reason to get another to weld into my stock downpipe.

The problem was the sensors on glowshift gauges snap in once when you connect them....and then if you press hard enough, they go in a second snap. So, easy fix, just my own "I'm scared to break things" attitude getting in the way as usual.

If I don't have to work this weekend, I'll go ahead and tear everything down and install the turbo...unless it's too cold out for the ceramic coating to dry, then maybe next week or something. I'm also "on-call" so that buick better not fail me, lol.

*edit* on the way to work this morning...I was definitely making vrrrrroooooom psssh sound effects while watching my "boost" gauge sweep all the way up to ....0, lol. and sitting at -22Hg is pretty normal during idle I think, or remember someone saying, ya? Oh...and the wife came home and just shook her head, saying "you are such a dork....you don't want me to ever ride in your car, do you?" She hates things like gauges, turbos, exhaust, ...pretty much anything that isn't "Stock". I guess that's just how she rolls though, of course she got the new car in the family, so easy for her to say...nice stereo...stock, nice wheels...stock, nice exhaust note...stock. list goes on...

Last edited by HornstarBU; Sep 28, 2010 at 10:09 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #144  
GrimmSpeed's Avatar
Newbie
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: St. Paul, MN
Have you done the coating yet? We use techline here in our shop and it works great! A piece of advise for you, make sure you don't coat it on too thick. Too much of this stuff and it can flake off, just enough to cover the part is all you should need. Also make sure everything is prepped properly and completely free of rust.

Mike
Reply
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #145  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed
Have you done the coating yet? We use techline here in our shop and it works great! A piece of advise for you, make sure you don't coat it on too thick. Too much of this stuff and it can flake off, just enough to cover the part is all you should need. Also make sure everything is prepped properly and completely free of rust.

Mike
I'm going to coat it today or tomorrow. Everything is prepped as well as i think I can get it. I used a grinder with a wire wheel to get everything sort of "rough clean" and then some aluminum oxide to make it look perfect. The hotside of the turbo though is hella hard to get lookign perfect. The color and the shape make it really difficult for me at least, any suggestions on that part? Also, yeah techline turbox is what i am using.
Reply
Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #146  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
OK...this isn't a "that's what she said" joke...but it's not as wet as it looks, or as thick. I was really cautious to spray it as thin as possible while still covering. Probably the worst one I did was the hotside since it's all "corner-y". Anyhow, if it flakes off, I learn from my mistakes and go on with life. So, here it all is, outside's only.



*lil edit* I may have been too thin on the header, at least in some spots, but it doesn't look bad just like I can see through it to the metal if i really look hard. Still, techline said don't do a second coat, so I'll just live with it and see how it works out. All I'm looking for is some heat reduction, so hopefully that's what it'll do.

Last edited by HornstarBU; Oct 30, 2010 at 10:48 AM.
Reply
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:42 PM
  #147  
vityenyka05's Avatar
Newbie
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
nice work
Reply
Old Oct 3, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #148  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
I've taken the stock map, and done all the changes listed in Senate's post for getting the EVO Rom working on a base lancer.

I have also changed:
Off all Tephra except cel on knock
hi/lo octane/timing maps ...probably no where near correct for boost
openloop load/throttle tables
idle settings, but not a few...which concerns me.
rev limit, immobilizer, knock multi's/gain's
Periphery1 (FBA) to turn off leanspool

Can anyone with tuning exp look...as long as you are bored and not busy doing anything else, and tell me if I either did anything stupid or am missing copying any values over (or if i copied something over that i shouldn't have, like the idle stuff)

I also had some trouble with MAF Scaling, and had to change the item that was being used for scaling...but i think i got it all in there right. Still, that's why i ask if anyone can take a look. I'm not flashing it yet, still don't have the turbo on. Installing next weekend or the following, so plenty of time to keep learning.


http://www.mediafire.com/file/7db4b2...ZwhenTurbo.zip
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 04:12 PM
  #149  
HornstarBU's Avatar
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
So....it was a little warm today, but I'm still thinking I will start not this weekend but the coming week. I have a bit of work that all requires me to be driving around, so I may head up to the ranch to get the spare car. Here's everything I've got, just waiting with baited breath to get installed. I've also got a slight oil leak coming from my oil pan...so I guess now is the perfect time to replace that gasket.



You know what i left out...my fans and battery tray!

Last edited by HornstarBU; Oct 30, 2010 at 10:47 AM.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #150  
steven121's Avatar
Evolved Member
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (27)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 12
From: TX
sweet I like the oil return idea, I might go buy some more hose and work on mine because its still leaking, Im thinking its probably the flange I have.

What flange would be good to use so I can fix this problem?
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:40 PM.