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Going turbo but got some questions

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JRR
try 24psi on stock internals in my wrx....

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #32  
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From: FLA-HI-SoCal
have you thought about just trading in your Lancer for a 2003 Evo... it'll save the headaches..
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by o-townFLA
have you thought about just trading in your Lancer for a 2003 Evo... it'll save the headaches..
Fail Fail Fail Fail Fail!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is not a headache its a learning experience. Geez I wish these evo guys would give this reply a rest for once.
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by o-townFLA
have you thought about just trading in your Lancer for a 2003 Evo... it'll save the headaches..
fail.

Last edited by cedes14bamg; Dec 8, 2010 at 06:55 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:24 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by o-townFLA
have you thought about just trading in your Lancer for a 2003 Evo... it'll save the headaches..
Sometimes....I just think, WTF are they even doing in our little corner of the forum? And like everyone else said...it's a learning experience. After putting my turbo on my car, I've learned a hell of a lot more than 99% of the evo owners I know. Oh, and again...price, I don't have a car payment....I haven't for 5 years now. If I "saved the headache" I'd just be dealing with the headache of a 400 dollar or whatever a month payment. Oh...one last thing....trade my cared for, and manicured lancer for some other dude's ragged out TRAMP! no thank you...
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 04:53 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Sometimes....I just think, WTF are they even doing in our little corner of the forum? And like everyone else said...it's a learning experience. After putting my turbo on my car, I've learned a hell of a lot more than 99% of the evo owners I know. Oh, and again...price, I don't have a car payment....I haven't for 5 years now. If I "saved the headache" I'd just be dealing with the headache of a 400 dollar or whatever a month payment. Oh...one last thing....trade my cared for, and manicured lancer for some other dude's ragged out TRAMP! no thank you...
+1 stay in your evo forums and get off lancer forums !
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 06:11 PM
  #37  
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another question: what is the difference between a BOV and a Diverter valve? Aren't they the same thing. I know most turboed lancer use the Evo 9 BOV but some like senate use the Forge Diverter valve. which one works better and why?
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by slatermvp
another question: what is the difference between a BOV and a Diverter valve? Aren't they the same thing. I know most turboed lancer use the Evo 9 BOV but some like senate use the Forge Diverter valve. which one works better and why?

well id say theres 2 types of BOV(blow off valve). one being a VTA(vent to air) the other i like to call it RECIRCULATED haha. so its either you let the boost out or you make it go back in the intake pipe.

i kinda feel for a RECIRC now! having the boost back in the intake pipe aint a bad thing!
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 06:41 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by slatermvp
another question: what is the difference between a BOV and a Diverter valve? Aren't they the same thing. I know most turboed lancer use the Evo 9 BOV but some like senate use the Forge Diverter valve. which one works better and why?

A BOV and a DV more or less the same, and perform the same function. The difference in terminology is pretty much meaningless. Where people get their undies in a bundle and/or burned is the issue about venting to atmosphere or not. With a closed, MAF-based system (like our lancer's) venting to atmosphere will cause the motor to run rich. Period. The ECU meters incoming air via the MAF, If any of that metered volume of air is vented to atmosphere, the ECU has no idea that it's lost some air and will fire the injectors long enough to match the volume or pre-metered air. Result? Rich condition.

Some BOVs are engineered to only vent to atmos, some are engineered to recirculate the vented charge so you will not get a rich condition, because all the air is metered and accounted for. I myself run VTA, people say its rice or w/e honestly idc what people think i got an HKS SSQV for the sound and i love it! Even my recirc evo valve i cound hear, but this one is really loud. I have an auto trans so when the BOV lets the extra air out, it does get rich for literally like 1 second, but since im auto the car wont stall, it doesnt even bog out or anything, also since when im in boost the car shifts withought closing the TB plate, so no BOV in between shifts, this allow for my car to ALWAYS be in boost and not have to spool up again in-between shifts. But with a 5-spd VTA setup some people have stalling problems, and boggyness in between shifts. This is where Speed Density setups are used, but thats a whole diff topic.

Last edited by Mitsu.kid.02; Dec 9, 2010 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 07:49 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Mitsu.kid.02
A BOV and a DV more or less the same, and perform the same function. The difference in terminology is pretty much meaningless. Where people get their undies in a bundle and/or burned is the issue about venting to atmosphere or not. With a closed, MAF-based system (like our lancer's) venting to atmosphere will cause the motor to run rich. Period. The ECU meters incoming air via the MAF, If any of that metered volume of air is vented to atmosphere, the ECU has no idea that it's lost some air and will fire the injectors long enough to match the volume or pre-metered air. Result? Rich condition.

Some BOVs are engineered to only vent to atmos, some are engineered to recirculate the vented charge so you will not get a rich condition, because all the air is metered and accounted for. I myself run VTA, people say its rice or w/e honestly idc what people think i got an HKS SSQV for the sound and i love it! Even my recirc evo valve i cound hear, but this one is really loud. I have an auto trans so when the BOV lets the extra air out, it does get rich for literally like 1 second, but since im auto the car wont stall, it doesnt even bog out or anything, also since when im in boost the car shifts withought closing the TB plate, so no BOV in between shifts, this allow for my car to ALWAYS be in boost and not have to spool up again in-between shifts. But with a 5-spd VTA setup some people have stalling problems, and boggyness in between shifts. This is where Speed Density setups are used, but thats a whole diff topic.
+1 thats the info we needed haha
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 07:09 AM
  #41  
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From: sin city,ma
great info thanks
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 05:51 PM
  #42  
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I'm thinking of running a mini/civic radiator so that the water hose (from the radiator to the engine) does not melt slash hit the turbo. The fan that goes on it how are you guys setting it up as a pusher or a puller?? Should I run only 1 or 2 fans, if 2 how would I set them up??
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 06:46 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by slatermvp
I'm thinking of running a mini/civic radiator so that the water hose (from the radiator to the engine) does not melt slash hit the turbo. The fan that goes on it how are you guys setting it up as a pusher or a puller?? Should I run only 1 or 2 fans, if 2 how would I set them up??
well if yur going half size then you would only be able to run one. id set it up as a pusher to better clear an intake pipe that would go there.
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 06:55 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by JRR
well if yur going half size then you would only be able to run one. id set it up as a pusher to better clear an intake pipe that would go there.
Alright.

Another and this one is probably the stupidest but I never saw anyone mention it and I'm doing a list of what I need with the little things included, but does the oil pan (gray area, not the lower black area) have a gasket and does it need to be replaced after the pan is tapped?
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by slatermvp
Alright.

Another and this one is probably the stupidest but I never saw anyone mention it and I'm doing a list of what I need with the little things included, but does the oil pan (gray area, not the lower black area) have a gasket and does it need to be replaced after the pan is tapped?
Yes it does and make sure you get the block and pan surfaces realllllly clean before installing the gasket/rtv cause you do not want to have to pull that puppy back out
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