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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Going turbo but got some questions

So I have decided to go turbo but got some questions:

1.I do not want to remove the crash bar on my car so what size intercooler will fit without removing the crash bar? I know with the Evo intercooler I have to remove it but I don't want to do that so I will buy a different intercooler if I have to.

2. If I used the Evo 8 piping can I use the Evo 9 intake pipe so that the air filter is where my battery used to be? I just love the way that looks, don't ask me why.

3. If I get a stock Evo exhaust manifold can I piggyback the 4g94 flange onto it to be able to use it or would it be better to chop off the 4g63 flange off and weld the 4g94 flange onto it? I know this has been discussed but I just want clarification.

I searched as much as I could but needed a clear answer. I know I have more questions but I can not find my paper where I wrote them down.

Thanks for the help in advance. I can't wait to be boosting by next summer, hopefully...lol..
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by slatermvp
So I have decided to go turbo but got some questions:

1.I do not want to remove the crash bar on my car so what size intercooler will fit without removing the crash bar? I know with the Evo intercooler I have to remove it but I don't want to do that so I will buy a different intercooler if I have to.

2. If I used the Evo 8 piping can I use the Evo 9 intake pipe so that the air filter is where my battery used to be? I just love the way that looks, don't ask me why.

3. If I get a stock Evo exhaust manifold can I piggyback the 4g94 flange onto it to be able to use it or would it be better to chop off the 4g63 flange off and weld the 4g94 flange onto it? I know this has been discussed but I just want clarification.

I searched as much as I could but needed a clear answer. I know I have more questions but I can not find my paper where I wrote them down.

Thanks for the help in advance. I can't wait to be boosting by next summer, hopefully...lol..
It sounds like you've read all the threads but are asking the questions you heard answers to. Since you know to ask, yeah the crash bar comes out. If you get one of those mishimoto or similar ones you'd be able to keep it in there. The small mishimoto one, not the big one. check speedcorps.com under the lancer turbo section.

Where's "where my battery used to be?"

Yeah, 03lances welded a flange on, it works, just takes some good "fabbing". If you can, try to order a speedcorps.com 4g94 manifold, I've only had mine for about 2 months, but it's doing great so far, feels really good quality. Don't chop the existing one off btw, just weld onto it.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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as for the battery just move it back over the transmission instead of in front like it sits stock. i have an evo battery tray for sale if you need one. o think the thread there is a 1x1.25 if i remember correctly i think.

and as for manifold, unless speedcorps has come out with one to clear the clutch slave (if you manual) you will have to go with an rrm mani and a dsm style turbo to clear the slave cylinder. i got pics somewhere in my thread that shows that problem...


josh
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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me actually i wonna know if its worth it to have an intercooler if youre gonna run 7 psi?

and something else that i find ppl dont talk often about is fmu and fpr

i actually got a few parts right now so SLATERMVP i hope to run boost this summer too!
heres my list so far haha

evo3 big 16g
obx 12:1 fmu
autoteq fpr
turboxs rfl type h vta
evo 3 turbo manifold with 4g94 flange welded on
turbosmart boost controller
universal turboxs small intercooler(not sure to install)
civic d16 2.5'' intercooler piping ( have to cut and weld,blahh)
evo 3 dp 3'' with stock o2 housing ( had to turn o2 housing 180 degree or else exhaust would go out front!)
aem wideband uego
boost gauge

currently waiting for fuel pump and gaskets
so yea i just want some input on my list

Last edited by cedes14bamg; Dec 5, 2010 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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oh btw i think ill have problem with my vta
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cedes14bamg
me actually i wonna know if its worth it to have an intercooler if youre gonna run 7 psi?

and something else that i find ppl dont talk often about is fmu and fpr

i actually got a few parts right now so SLATERMVP i hope to run boost this summer too!
heres my list so far haha

evo3 big 16g
obx 12:1 fmu
autoteq fpr
turboxs rfl type h vta
evo 3 turbo manifold with 4g94 flange welded on
turbosmart boost controller
universal turboxs small intercooler(not sure to install)
civic d16 2.5'' intercooler piping ( have to cut and weld,blahh)
evo 3 dp 3'' with stock o2 housing ( had to turn o2 housing 180 degree or else exhaust would go out front!)
aem wideband uego
boost gauge

currently waiting for fuel pump and gaskets
so yea i just want some input on my list
Originally Posted by cedes14bamg
oh btw i think ill have problem with my vta

dont even mess with a fmu or vta. do it right an put in some 02-03 wrx blue topped 440's. you have an 03 with the returned fuel system. they will drop right in and in the long run if you want to turn the boost up you can without much change anywhere else. trust me i thought id be fine at 7psi, then i wanted more and then look here i was pushing 15psi on a stock engined lancer with a tune.


now mw with my wrx i said just 3 months ago that id be fine with it being a stock car, now have since dynoed and tuned it and am now pushing the very limits of the entire system at 24psi!

as for the vta, dont be and act stupid like honduh's. our cars were designed to work with a maf and thats where its sposed to go, back into the intake system. our cars are very picky when it comes to air anyway you look at it. and as someone on nasioc said to another guy as well whats the point of creating boost just to let it go into the atmosphere? why not use the boost you have created?

if you really want to vta, then switch your car to be a speed density kit like what honduh's use buy measuring air intake temp and pressure. but that also requires more tuning and some money as well to make it work.....


josh
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:08 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by JRR
dont even mess with a fmu or vta. do it right an put in some 02-03 wrx blue topped 440's. you have an 03 with the returned fuel system. they will drop right in and in the long run if you want to turn the boost up you can without much change anywhere else. trust me i thought id be fine at 7psi, then i wanted more and then look here i was pushing 15psi on a stock engined lancer with a tune.


now mw with my wrx i said just 3 months ago that id be fine with it being a stock car, now have since dynoed and tuned it and am now pushing the very limits of the entire system at 24psi!

as for the vta, dont be and act stupid like honduh's. our cars were designed to work with a maf and thats where its sposed to go, back into the intake system. our cars are very picky when it comes to air anyway you look at it. and as someone on nasioc said to another guy as well whats the point of creating boost just to let it go into the atmosphere? why not use the boost you have created?

if you really want to vta, then switch your car to be a speed density kit like what honduh's use buy measuring air intake temp and pressure. but that also requires more tuning and some money as well to make it work.....


josh

yea i read about those wrx injectors, but putting bigger injectors will mess up the idling of the car and will need to be tune, with the stock injectors you know you wont mess up your engine with tune, i dunno i just find it safer with fmu. And i thought the wrx injectors were pink not blue topped? But if putting 440s with a tune is way better then i guess ill stick with that. So for your lancerr fuel system you just had 440s and walbro fuel pump then a good tune? what about an fpr, isnt that safer to control the excess fuel that the pump pumps?

congrats with the wrx!


yea exactly, recirculated boost helps since its air allready compressed! but you know all kids want a vta haha what if you just put washers in the bov to stiffen up the spring? would that help? if not ill get a greedy rs

nahh i aint swithing to speed density too much hassle for me


thanks, Jon
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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i got some injectors : ) and a greddy emanage and greddy electronic boost controller.....i was reading above by jrr, what is he saying about the header from speedcorps and being manual...
does the header not fit with an auto?
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cedes14bamg
yea i read about those wrx injectors, but putting bigger injectors will mess up the idling of the car and will need to be tune, with the stock injectors you know you wont mess up your engine with tune, i dunno i just find it safer with fmu. And i thought the wrx injectors were pink not blue topped? But if putting 440s with a tune is way better then i guess ill stick with that. So for your lancerr fuel system you just had 440s and walbro fuel pump then a good tune? what about an fpr, isnt that safer to control the excess fuel that the pump pumps?

congrats with the wrx!


yea exactly, recirculated boost helps since its air allready compressed! but you know all kids want a vta haha what if you just put washers in the bov to stiffen up the spring? would that help? if not ill get a greedy rs

nahh i aint swithing to speed density too much hassle for me


thanks, Jon
Big injectors shouldn't mess the idle up....HUGE injectors may, but 440's, 560's, and others of that range don't seem to cause problems for anyone. One fella has "modded" 880's, which are de-capped 440's and he is having idle problems, but that's more because of the de-capping I think, in that the latencies aren't quite as well known at that point....but also because they are insanely huge at that point.

There's no way an FMU is safer than 440s, except maybe if you are comparing the totally stock ECU with an FMU to 440's without tuning at all. An FMU just pinches the return line for the fuel, causing fuel pressure to rise (usually 12 psi per 1lb of boost) which inturn pushes more fuel through the stock injectors. Those 232's aren't calibrated for that kind of flow, and the fuel system isn't intended to run with that much pressure in it.....12psi of boost times 12:1 FMU = 144psi additional pressure in your fuel system. 440's do require a re-tune, because the computer needs to be aware of them, and the fuel map needs adjustment as well....but you should be doing that anyway, since timing ought to be adjusted with the addition of a turbo.

RR-FPR is similar in nature, but not really. It also increases fuel pressure, usually on a 1:1 basis. It's going to be say, 12psi boost, 12psi more in the fuel system...that's nowhere near as bad, but the real question is "is it necessary"? Probably not, you can just increase the amount of fuel at that specific rpm/load value, and you're all good. If you just mean an FPR in general, not a rising rate FPR, then you already have one of those. Evo's have a RR-FPR, which doesn't fit ours, but can be made to with some drilling and tapping.

From what I've read, speed density is much much easier to do these days, and I'm considering it in the near future....once I get my tun nice and smooth, get the injectors cleaned and flowtested, get the new shocks in....then, I just can't help myself, I want to be able to log boost. And, if I spend 100bucks on the MAP sensor, what's another 30 for the IAT sensor/bung/harness. I don't think I'd VTA, but I guess the option is there at that point...might be fun. I don't know if any lancers of our style have done SD yet though, so maybe there's more problems awaiting me than I think...

Still, bottom line for ol' OP, if you've got a 05, that means you can't use the speedcorps mani? according to JRR, and he's got a good handle on this stuff.

Most expensive things I bought when putting the kit together were the AEM wideband, the other gauges, the Tactrix cable and the turbo itself. So, just FYI, make sure you know the total cost of everything before you buy the first piece.

Last edited by HornstarBU; Dec 6, 2010 at 07:42 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JRR
as for the battery just move it back over the transmission instead of in front like it sits stock. i have an evo battery tray for sale if you need one. o think the thread there is a 1x1.25 if i remember correctly i think.

and as for manifold, unless speedcorps has come out with one to clear the clutch slave (if you manual) you will have to go with an rrm mani and a dsm style turbo to clear the slave cylinder. i got pics somewhere in my thread that shows that problem...


josh
For the battery tray, you can see in the pics in my turbo thread how it looks sitting over where JRR is talking about.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cedes14bamg
yea i read about those wrx injectors, but putting bigger injectors will mess up the idling of the car and will need to be tune, with the stock injectors you know you wont mess up your engine with tune, i dunno i just find it safer with fmu. And i thought the wrx injectors were pink not blue topped? But if putting 440s with a tune is way better then i guess ill stick with that. So for your lancerr fuel system you just had 440s and walbro fuel pump then a good tune? what about an fpr, isnt that safer to control the excess fuel that the pump pumps?

congrats with the wrx!


yea exactly, recirculated boost helps since its air allready compressed! but you know all kids want a vta haha what if you just put washers in the bov to stiffen up the spring? would that help? if not ill get a greedy rs

nahh i aint swithing to speed density too much hassle for me


thanks, Jon
the pinks are sti 565's and those are japan only injectors. subaru dealers here in the states cant even get thir hands on them because for some reason they are not allowed to, from a good friend who works in the parts dept at the local dealer.

i had 440's, STOCK pump, and STOCK fpr never had a problem.

as for the bov, what im trying to say is that when you create boost then let off the accellorator the boost has to go somewhere and since the maf is before the bov the computer has already calculated for the air being there, then you vta and then you have a really rich situation. if you want to "hear" your bov then look into a hard inlet pipe. that will make a difference in sound and not cause a rich situation

josh
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
It sounds like you've read all the threads but are asking the questions you heard answers to. Since you know to ask, yeah the crash bar comes out. If you get one of those mishimoto or similar ones you'd be able to keep it in there. The small mishimoto one, not the big one. check speedcorps.com under the lancer turbo section.

Where's "where my battery used to be?"

Yeah, 03lances welded a flange on, it works, just takes some good "fabbing". If you can, try to order a speedcorps.com 4g94 manifold, I've only had mine for about 2 months, but it's doing great so far, feels really good quality. Don't chop the existing one off btw, just weld onto it.
Thanks for the answer bro. I'll get me a mishimoto intercooler than.

JRR I have an auto so i don't have to worry about the slave cylinder. The fans you have for sale what cfm are they and how much for one and the evo battery tray shipped to 01905.

Alright so I should be fine then, I just wanted clarification. I have learned that the search option is your friend so I used it.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
It sounds like you've read all the threads but are asking the questions you heard answers to. Since you know to ask, yeah the crash bar comes out. If you get one of those mishimoto or similar ones you'd be able to keep it in there. The small mishimoto one, not the big one. check speedcorps.com under the lancer turbo section.

Where's "where my battery used to be?"

Yeah, 03lances welded a flange on, it works, just takes some good "fabbing". If you can, try to order a speedcorps.com 4g94 manifold, I've only had mine for about 2 months, but it's doing great so far, feels really good quality. Don't chop the existing one off btw, just weld onto it.
Actually this was my initial plan as I was waiting for speedcorps to release their manifolds and I was getting too close to finishing my parts and so I bought a megan evo 8 manifold. Then I was able to pick one up through Zulu and so I sold the megan mani and picked up the other one so I have an actual 4G94 to 16G manifold just like the one Zulu had gotten from speedcorps.

Originally Posted by zulu989
i got some injectors : ) and a greddy emanage and greddy electronic boost controller.....i was reading above by jrr, what is he saying about the header from speedcorps and being manual...
does the header not fit with an auto?
What Jrr is saying is that the '04+ manuals have an external slave cylinder and the manifold that you and I use will not clear that slave. The '02-'03 have internal slaves and so this is not an issue. I assume '04+ autos should not have an issue with this manifold
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Big injectors shouldn't mess the idle up....HUGE injectors may, but 440's, 560's, and others of that range don't seem to cause problems for anyone. One fella has "modded" 880's, which are de-capped 440's and he is having idle problems, but that's more because of the de-capping I think, in that the latencies aren't quite as well known at that point....but also because they are insanely huge at that point.

There's no way an FMU is safer than 440s, except maybe if you are comparing the totally stock ECU with an FMU to 440's without tuning at all. An FMU just pinches the return line for the fuel, causing fuel pressure to rise (usually 12 psi per 1lb of boost) which inturn pushes more fuel through the stock injectors. Those 232's aren't calibrated for that kind of flow, and the fuel system isn't intended to run with that much pressure in it.....12psi of boost times 12:1 FMU = 144psi additional pressure in your fuel system. 440's do require a re-tune, because the computer needs to be aware of them, and the fuel map needs adjustment as well....but you should be doing that anyway, since timing ought to be adjusted with the addition of a turbo.

RR-FPR is similar in nature, but not really. It also increases fuel pressure, usually on a 1:1 basis. It's going to be say, 12psi boost, 12psi more in the fuel system...that's nowhere near as bad, but the real question is "is it necessary"? Probably not, you can just increase the amount of fuel at that specific rpm/load value, and you're all good. If you just mean an FPR in general, not a rising rate FPR, then you already have one of those. Evo's have a RR-FPR, which doesn't fit ours, but can be made to with some drilling and tapping.

From what I've read, speed density is much much easier to do these days, and I'm considering it in the near future....once I get my tun nice and smooth, get the injectors cleaned and flowtested, get the new shocks in....then, I just can't help myself, I want to be able to log boost. And, if I spend 100bucks on the MAP sensor, what's another 30 for the IAT sensor/bung/harness. I don't think I'd VTA, but I guess the option is there at that point...might be fun. I don't know if any lancers of our style have done SD yet though, so maybe there's more problems awaiting me than I think...

Still, bottom line for ol' OP, if you've got a 05, that means you can't use the speedcorps mani? according to JRR, and he's got a good handle on this stuff.

Most expensive things I bought when putting the kit together were the AEM wideband, the other gauges, the Tactrix cable and the turbo itself. So, just FYI, make sure you know the total cost of everything before you buy the first piece.

thanks for the info !!
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JRR
the pinks are sti 565's and those are japan only injectors. subaru dealers here in the states cant even get thir hands on them because for some reason they are not allowed to, from a good friend who works in the parts dept at the local dealer.

i had 440's, STOCK pump, and STOCK fpr never had a problem.

as for the bov, what im trying to say is that when you create boost then let off the accellorator the boost has to go somewhere and since the maf is before the bov the computer has already calculated for the air being there, then you vta and then you have a really rich situation. if you want to "hear" your bov then look into a hard inlet pipe. that will make a difference in sound and not cause a rich situation

josh
ohh thats from where those injectors come from !

are you serious, stock fuel pump ? jeese you were all about the tune !

a hard inlet pipe, the pipe for recirculation? so its possible to run rich with a recirculated bov?
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