aiight

you sure got one ek of a lancer man !!

 

well exactly, its great that every guy with a turboed lancer puts their input in one thread

cause basically its easy to find what parts we need to get it turboed but its different when it comes to piecing it i guess

yea im sticking wth the stock maf, but an evo maf with evo map should work wonders !

 

what is the Evo 8 or 9 BOV set to?? Can you adjust them to a different setting?? Basically I am trying to completely understand how it works because I am pretty sure they are set higher for the evos but say when I start off at 5 PSI or something like that how does that work with the boost setting??

 

At 5 psi i still had NO problem with the evo8 DV opening. Its open at idle slightly, so it must be re-circ. It basically responds to vac changes, Most people have no problems with the evo8/9 DV even at low PSI like 5!

 

^^ u should never have an issue with a vacuum based piece of hardware like a DV/BOV.. yes its non-adjustable, but that doesnt have to do with how much boost your pushing, it has to do with how much vacuum ur car is able to pull. if u were running a big cam setup and ur car was not able to pull much vacuum then it would need to be adjustable. but most OEM style non-adjustable bovs will work just fine on a car thats able to pull -18-20in Hg vac no matter how much boost there pushing.. so at 5psi or at 25psi the OEM evo8/9 'DV'/bov will work just fine as long as its able to vent enough air from your setup to stop compressor surge.

 

alright so it doesn't matter how much booost you are pushing its more of a vaccuum issue. I am just trying to get a good idea of how they work.

 

You should have LESS of an issue with the OEM than aftermarket BOV/DV valves from what I hear, lots of evo guys go from "good working, quiet dv" to "bad working, loud bov" just for the sound. the 9 DV works, no frills, no flash, but it works perfect...mine was a lil sticky at first since it had be sitting in somone's garage for a year, but it's perfect now.


rrrrmmmmmmm Pshh

 

Yeah, the amount of boost only matters once you hit an upper limit of where the device just physically can't handle it.

There is vacuum pulling on the nipple, and there is vacuum pulling on one side of the bov...when the throttle body closes, that boost is still in the "pre throttle body" piping, but not "post throttle body". This means the nipple sees vacuum, and the port on the intercooler piping does not....so the pressure difference pops it open. It's all about pressure differences, that's why this whole mess about "stiffer" springs to hold more boost is really not entirely true. I mean, it can be...but really what you want is the same as a gun trigger, light enough so that it pops as soon as it's needed. Not too stiff, not too loose,

 

Good explanation!

 

but me an slater kinda want the noise to be heard
so apparently thats only a matter of installing an aftermarkert evo intake pipe? since itll be hard and not soft like the stock one

 

not always correct, you must run a speed density in order to prevent your idle from going a wall

 

My idle is at 750 RPM, im not running speed density and im VTA and my BOV is very loud, even at 5-7 PSI. Its because the ssqv closes COMPLETLY at idle, where the DV's like the factory evo 8/ 9's are open slightly at idle allowing for a real ****ty idle and stalling. On the ssqv there is no adjustment scew, its diff from a normal BOV, its never suppost to open under boost because the pressure in the intake keeps it closed, and it is very responsive, it even relieve's the extra air in low vac, i have had no more compressor surge problems, i have had great results with my bov!

but it might be different for a manual trans, you will have rich problems in between shifts and be boggy and hesitant usually, withought running speed density. But in my auto trans, i dont get that condition because my TB plate never closes and im in boost all the time even when the car shifts, so i only get a rich condition when i let off the gas, but not bad to where the car gets boggy or hesitates. My wideband reads 11.4-8 in boost, then when i let off, it goes way lean then reads 13.2 or so real fast then back to lean again. For me its not a problem, and the setup works for my application! The only time i let off the gas in between shifts is when i want to hear it for my self!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNqUi...layer_embedded

 

does speedcorps still sell the turbo manifold??? cant find it on their site anywhere

 

They sold me one, but they also have gone through various site changes throughout the years, so it's best to just contact them. The guy I worked with was named Justin, and I got to him via sales @ speedcorps.com

Really great manifold so far, haven't seen any cracking, I ceramic coated it, but if you do the same, make sure to use aluminum oxide blasting abrasive, or it won't stick through much heat.

For the VTA vs Diverter and sound...it's really a matter of the combination. With a greddy type-s, you might be able to do it vta with the proper screw adjustment, with the HKS you might be able to do it (i think there is an anti stall), with the synapse they sell anti-stall as well. All of those will be loud, regardless of intake pipe. I have the Samco intake, with the 9 diverter, and it's quiet, you can certainly hear it...and the guy next to you might hear it as well, but for the most part it's pretty silent.

If I had to do it all over again, from scratch, I'd still stay with the 9 bov. Then, I would tune it all up, in the nice closed system, with no VTA....and then, if I really want to get loud, I'd switch to SD, like...150 bucks if you self tune and install, and THEN I'd go VTA for the noise level.

 

this might sound like a dumb question.. exspecially from me.. im bound to ask one every once and while

can automatics go SD?