It's a dynamic timing control knock prevention device. The short version is it knows when to listen for each individual cylinder. When it hears knock or a precursor to knock it pulls timing off of just that one cylinder so that it can't detonate and then it'll add that timing back as long as it "hears" that it is safe. So basically the system in realtime, on every single piston fire, makes sure that you do not get knock/detonation and thus prevents you from blowing up pistons or any rods by avoiding detonation. It doesn't prevent you from bending a rod from too much boost, but it doesn't save you in cases like a piston going lean (and destroying your entire engine... go talk to HobieKopek/Andrew about that one) and so forth. VERY nice system. Both my brother and I use the system to protect our cars. My system is going in the car in about a week or two... then upping the boost ... and racing all season... I should be safe. But VERY worth the 500 bucks. I don't know of anyone blowing an engine while using a JandS.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

 

hmm thats pretty cool

 

from the lloks of the dyno sheets it didn't seem like the RRM turbo spins up too quickly to me....it didn't get to full spool until just over 3000 RPM, that's pretty high...maybe it's just me....some pretty good numbers though, i wish RIPP would post some dyno sheets so we can see what those curves look like! *hint, hint*

 

Actually if you look at mine it went over a little by 3k rpm... don't know why the Drag car took a few hundred more?? But when looking at it you see how rapidly the boost comes in and how long it is there for... thats the key to turbo power. Can't wait to see the SC's dyno.

 

i thought it looked like the turbo started out really fast? maybe i was reading it wrong

 

They do... i'm making boost around 2k and at 2500 i'm often running about 6psi, by 3k im over 10psi sometimes depending on the gear im in. I just want to see the SC's curve. I know they are linear but i'd like to see exactly how linear. The few i've seen are like straight lines from about 1200rpms to redline. I'd imagine RIPPS is the same.

That might not be all bad though as i just roast the tires off in first and second gets going as well... and i've got the LSD. RIPPS kit probably is a little more controlable since it doesn't produce as much power down low. But damn i love the feeling when i do floor it!!

 

Boe, I am installing my guages (I will be installing My SC next weekend) and I'm not sure what wire on the O2 the signal wire from the air/fuel goes to. Do you know which one it is. Also I am going to the second O2, should I be going to the the first (header)?

 

the first o2 is where you typically read your air fuel mixture.... it's hotter for one, and typically before any cats which is important as well.

As far as the O2 sensor itself. The blue wire is the signal wire, white is the ground, and the two black wires are the heater.

later.

Steve

 

Thank you Sdhotwn

 

Hold on a minute... thats not right... the white wire is signal and black is ground... atleast in all the books and every one i've hooked up it is. The blue wire is a heater wire. Don't hook to that wire.

Sdhotown are you sure you've hooked to blue on the lancer?? I don't have a pinout in front of me or i'd tell you which connector on the ecu it is. I would just use an ohm meter and check for continuity between the sensors white wire and the white wires on the ecu... theres more than one.

 

Also i recommend you use an independant ground for the afc gauge, meaning don't hook up to the sensors ground hook straight to the chassis. As Sdhotown said you'll need to hook to the first sensor to get the most accurate reading.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/models/la...irediag.php?s=

Here is a link to the wiring diagram for the lancer... You want page 38. There you can see both O2 sensors(front and rear).

On the front the white is signal wire, black is ground. Red/Yellow and Blue/Red are for the heating element... connecting to those could damage the AF meter.

 

Hey will the road race piggy back be compatible with a supercharger from like ripps?

 

Don't need it as RIPP has their own form of engine management.... the "black box." It acts like the RRM piggy back to control fuel and timing.

 

If you are hooking up a a/f gauge, you will need to tap the wire close to the ECU, as the wire close to the sensor is shielded and won't give you a signal at all, and yes it is the white wire.