Advice on a system that I've bought
I like haveing rear speakers in my car I know a lot of the stereo guys around here want to go for the "concert" front speakers only but each to their own I like being surrounded by speakers more like a movie theater effect but I figure whatever your personal preferance is thats the way you should set your system up because after all It is your system so customize it to your personal preferance.
Hmm... Well I must agree... let me explain the effect that I want perhaps you guys can perfect it for me with the speakers that I have (or mayybe I have all the wrong eq) (we'll fix that), but imagne yourself setting in a living room with a Bose surround sound system... the music the action everything its around you... the movie is alive... I mean its there right beside you..... Watchin Pearl harbor, you hear the pistions andmoans and groans of that plane as its swooping about you hear that plane zip past your left ear go behind you and out right ear!!! you look around confused because you know its not there... flying around in your living room!!!!! but you od it anyways... seeing that its just speakers (you look around to make sure noone see you look around like a fool), or watching a music video although most Dolby amps are configured to do this by default you can change them... but they play out of the front channels... (center, front right, front left and 12 in Yahama Sub), Anyways thats a bit of overkill but thats kind well... no thats what i want to sound in my car i simply want it to be alive...
So I leave with this... This will be my first system that i've built by myself so I really don't know what I'm getting my self into as far as auscustics go I dont' know anything about that.. heh much less fabercating anything (I can fix any computer problems you may have hehe) but let this be a learning experience...
So I leave with this... This will be my first system that i've built by myself so I really don't know what I'm getting my self into as far as auscustics go I dont' know anything about that.. heh much less fabercating anything (I can fix any computer problems you may have hehe) but let this be a learning experience...
Then the setup that would be respctable for this would be a tweeter in each pillar... to in each front door, two in the back deck and the 1 15 in trunk is that surround enough? or perhaps more? lol.
lol if you see a buring LS driving interstate 1 lol you know its me!!!! hehe errmm so I guess its safe assume that the fabercating will be the least of my worries it will be running the wriging and hooking it all off will be the one that I should be concerned aobut correct?
its not nearly as difficult as doing an alarm system but it does take a bit of time and patience to run the wires so that they aren't seen and make sure all is correct oh one major thing I'm not sure if we mentioned make sure you have a fuse in the power cable before your amp. the other thing you can do is install the speakers and deck yourself and have a shop put the amp in (it will be the most difficult) also are you buying a premade box for the sub or are you making it?
Hey fellas...
Sentinal, thanks again for sound advice. I've been trying to help Nevaeh come up with a good first system. It seems like everytime I'm away from my pc, you are picking up right where I left off. lol.
Anyway, after reading the last few posts here, I will agree with Sentinal that you will need rear speakers as well. I would run the front two channels of the 4 channel amp to the door speakers and front tweeters. Run the rear two channels to the rear deck speakers of course. That way you can control the volume coming from each corner individually. To get a good effect, you should have the rear fill speakers playing at a lower level than the front. That's why they call them "rear fill" speakers. You want a presence of the sound all around you, but you don't want the rear so loud that it pulls your front stage back behind you. Does that make any sense at all? lol.
What do ya think Sentinal...a nice JL 4 channel?
...maybe later run another JL mono block amp to that 15" so it all matches? < Not that it matters so much...it just looks pretty like that.
You are definitely on the right path Nevaeh...we'll get ya there, don't worry. lol.
Sentinal, thanks again for sound advice. I've been trying to help Nevaeh come up with a good first system. It seems like everytime I'm away from my pc, you are picking up right where I left off. lol.
Anyway, after reading the last few posts here, I will agree with Sentinal that you will need rear speakers as well. I would run the front two channels of the 4 channel amp to the door speakers and front tweeters. Run the rear two channels to the rear deck speakers of course. That way you can control the volume coming from each corner individually. To get a good effect, you should have the rear fill speakers playing at a lower level than the front. That's why they call them "rear fill" speakers. You want a presence of the sound all around you, but you don't want the rear so loud that it pulls your front stage back behind you. Does that make any sense at all? lol.
What do ya think Sentinal...a nice JL 4 channel?
...maybe later run another JL mono block amp to that 15" so it all matches? < Not that it matters so much...it just looks pretty like that.
You are definitely on the right path Nevaeh...we'll get ya there, don't worry. lol.
A couple of facts about the way we hear. Our ears are shaped to hear in front and peripherally. We are designed to be defensive, back to a wall or secure area, aware of what lies ahead. The distance our ears are apart, limit the frequencies we can locate. People can distinguish location of a sound above 150 Hz. That is why it's OK to have subs in the rear. You can't tell they are there, except for when other resonance gives you cues to location. (rattling) Everything you play in your car is recorded in 2 channels, left & right. There is no rear information and you really only hear the rear speakers after they are reflected off the glass surrounding you. Just as in a concert, the guy in the front row will hear as well as the guy in the 100th row, even though the speakers are all up front. The reflections of a same sound arriving at different times is what gives the impression of room size. This is the hardest thing to acheive in car, making your car sound as big as the studio.
Another fact is that since the Evo's rear speakers are in the rear deck. They are being oscillated at the same frequency as teh subwoofer is playing. This means, unless the rear is sealed off, they will not sound very good. This isn't that noticeable since you really only hear reflections from them anyway.
I recommend the best amp and front speakers you can afford. A subwoofer to fill in the low end with it's own amp. If you want rear, the stock are fine, provided they work and they can be run off the deck power. This way they can be faded out even more. In a perfect world, the rear speakers would be removed, helping hte sub bass enter the cabin easier.
Sorry so long Sentinal
Another fact is that since the Evo's rear speakers are in the rear deck. They are being oscillated at the same frequency as teh subwoofer is playing. This means, unless the rear is sealed off, they will not sound very good. This isn't that noticeable since you really only hear reflections from them anyway.
I recommend the best amp and front speakers you can afford. A subwoofer to fill in the low end with it's own amp. If you want rear, the stock are fine, provided they work and they can be run off the deck power. This way they can be faded out even more. In a perfect world, the rear speakers would be removed, helping hte sub bass enter the cabin easier.
Sorry so long Sentinal
I agree tottaly as far the back stages should be quieter in the back in stead the front. hell it owuld make sense because if they were too high it owuld over power the sub... so let me see if i got this right
/ back deck
Batt -> fuse -> amp ->
\ front speakers, and tweeters
cap -> amp -> 15' sub
Where will I put the cap and will I have to put it on both amps?
/ back deck
Batt -> fuse -> amp ->
\ front speakers, and tweeters
cap -> amp -> 15' sub
Where will I put the cap and will I have to put it on both amps?
Daayyyuummmm BillAce...nice lesson!
Thank you for steering Nevaeh back in the "no rear fill" direction. Never was a fan of rear fill...never will be.
Nevaeh, to answer your question about the cap...it actually goes on your power cable. So from the battery it would be something like this... Battery--inline fuse (within a few inches of the battery)--cap (mounted in the trunk)--distribution block (to split your single power cable into two cables...one for each amp)--to your amps. That's about it. The cap is used to store power for when it's needed (typically when the sub hits), so it is used for both amps.
Thank you for steering Nevaeh back in the "no rear fill" direction. Never was a fan of rear fill...never will be.Nevaeh, to answer your question about the cap...it actually goes on your power cable. So from the battery it would be something like this... Battery--inline fuse (within a few inches of the battery)--cap (mounted in the trunk)--distribution block (to split your single power cable into two cables...one for each amp)--to your amps. That's about it. The cap is used to store power for when it's needed (typically when the sub hits), so it is used for both amps.
holy cow, you just told me how to wire my **** up lol, errrmmm how much would the amp and and cap would run, I have th fuse set and everything else I think I help offset the cost of one of when i sell the sub but errmmm lol if its at all possible can I get a link as to wha tI 'm looking for so i can tell them heya!!!! I want this!!!
A cap is a band aid. Don't buy it ulness you need it. That money should be spent on a better amp. Some higher quality amps actually have 500 mfd or so of capacitance built in for the power supply. These amps cost more but are worth it. Caps don't make power, they have the same voltage potential as the bigger cap under the hood, your battery. They just completely discharge in 1/32nd of a second to provide instantaneous current. This means they have to recharge from your battery in 1/32nd of a second and do it all over. They can make dimming lights go away because they flash faster than the filament or your eye can react. The root problem is still there. Make sure you have less than a .5Volt drop in your power wire, upgrade your grounds under the hood and do a short, clean amp ground to bare metal. I had over 3000 watts in my car without a cap, upgraded alternator or extra batteries and never saw a light dim or missed a note.
Originally Posted by BillAce
A cap is a band aid. Don't buy it ulness you need it. That money should be spent on a better amp. Some higher quality amps actually have 500 mfd or so of capacitance built in for the power supply. These amps cost more but are worth it. Caps don't make power, they have the same voltage potential as the bigger cap under the hood, your battery. They just completely discharge in 1/32nd of a second to provide instantaneous current. This means they have to recharge from your battery in 1/32nd of a second and do it all over. They can make dimming lights go away because they flash faster than the filament or your eye can react. The root problem is still there. Make sure you have less than a .5Volt drop in your power wire, upgrade your grounds under the hood and do a short, clean amp ground to bare metal. I had over 3000 watts in my car without a cap, upgraded alternator or extra batteries and never saw a light dim or missed a note.
Buy a better amp instead. To make sure you don't have a voltage problem:
Your power wire needs to be big enough. with the car off, measure voltage @ the battery. It should be no more than .5 Volts less at the amplifier. The closer to the battery voltage the better, less resistance. Upgrade the ground wires to the battery. They aren't sufficient for the extra current demand of the amplifier and will hurt performance. Make the body ground thicker and go from the engine-body, engine-battery as well. Make sure the amp ground is the same wire gauge as the power wire. Keep it as short as possible and connect it to bare metal to have a good connection. The car chassis is a far better ground than any wire that could be run under your carpet. Doing this right will reduce the need for a band aid like a cap. Fix problems, don't hide them.
Your power wire needs to be big enough. with the car off, measure voltage @ the battery. It should be no more than .5 Volts less at the amplifier. The closer to the battery voltage the better, less resistance. Upgrade the ground wires to the battery. They aren't sufficient for the extra current demand of the amplifier and will hurt performance. Make the body ground thicker and go from the engine-body, engine-battery as well. Make sure the amp ground is the same wire gauge as the power wire. Keep it as short as possible and connect it to bare metal to have a good connection. The car chassis is a far better ground than any wire that could be run under your carpet. Doing this right will reduce the need for a band aid like a cap. Fix problems, don't hide them.


