No apologies required by anyone, I'm too old compared to most around here to get excited about anything that is posted. Yes I can actually see that the "DF" might mean du*b f*ck...never thought of it.

And by the way,I couldn't resist.... Mobil1 is 100% synthetic. It is all Group IV oil. Older M1 bottles used to say 100% synthetic, "exclusive of any carrier oil for the additive package." So whomever assembled that info about M1 being not totally synth could have gleaned this from older information...

And yes I like Amsoil...

Peace to all, over and out...

 

i experience a slight difference using a synthetic oil, I cant accelerate well like i used too, I mean its great during winter coz my engine warms up quick. but it doesnt do well on launches and i notice its like my car is heavier and running slower than it used to be.

 

i think this is all your imagination. have you done anything else to the car that might induce poor performance?
i just don't see how synthetic will make your car warm up quicker or affect acceleration to a noticeable degree. in cold winter mornings the syn oil may reach optimum viscocity temps quicker because the temp range may extend into the colder temps further than dyno oils but that shouldn't affect how long it takes for your car to actually be 'warmed up'.

 

This is why I hate my life...
I have used synthetic ever sense my first oil change now...

****

 

I'm going to go 15w50 Mobil 1 as soon as I get a chance to get under my car. Hopefully Wednesday or Thursday. I guess we shall see, eh? I'll use the Mobil 1 I already have (lower weight) during winter.

 

I'm a synthetic oil fan and have used synthetic for many years. I like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple. I don't run the synthetic extended much past 3K miles change interval. I've never had an engine fail or wear out using synthetics. The spun bearing is either from a lack of oil or the clearances were too tight. A high-volume oil pump, correct main/rod bearing clearances, along with free flowing oil are the best bet (10w-30). A pressurized accumulator tank is a great idea too when your cornering so hard the oil pump could suck some air. I would not use a heavier oil as it won't flow as readily.

 

I have been running 10/30 synthetic since the first oil change of my 2003 OZ. I now have 45,000 miles, and still running strong! Can anyone smell that BS? It stinks

 

Thats Mobile 1 10w30 :-P

 

Thats Mobile 1 10w30

 

it's non-sense... for those confused and want to switch, do it... synthetics are superior, plain and simple... i've ran Royal Purple in turbo cars, even now in my Evo, and ran it in high-compression N/A engines too like my 00 Celica GT-S... no problems, never... cars run smoother, you get better mpg, run cooler, and have more power... whatever shop told you it was the synthetic, stay away from it... stay with amsoil or royal purple and you'll be set...

 

wow 2 year old post

 

But still contains good info.

I've been considering the switch.

WADAD

 

QS, so if there's a problem with synthetic oil when it's too hot why not just get an oil cooler to be sure it will be aight?

 

it's obvious that there was a pump failiure not the synthetic oil, if you had a oil pressure gauge you porbably could have saved the engine

 

now that is bs i have uesed 5w30 since day one 50000 miles and no problems