swapped to an eclipse 501 MAF
lol, I just got the pics to work.
Nothing is broken yet, it's just taken appart. Put it back together
If you want more airflow to go through your current maf look at the last picture. Right under the center portion, there is a plastic peice that goes half way through.
Under the maf, there will be a gel type stuff covering that part. Remove the gel crap, get a screw driver and move the thing to your liking. Don't remove it completely
Nothing is broken yet, it's just taken appart. Put it back together
If you want more airflow to go through your current maf look at the last picture. Right under the center portion, there is a plastic peice that goes half way through.Under the maf, there will be a gel type stuff covering that part. Remove the gel crap, get a screw driver and move the thing to your liking. Don't remove it completely
Well do you think thats because the values in the ecu were all wrong to cope with the new airflow? I wonder if you were to tweak the values right it would work without the plastic plate. Obviously that would be more hassle than its worth but Im sure that that is the reason it wouldnt run right. Just like with the 501 MAF which I now have in my possession (yay), you have to copy in the eclipse values to cope with the new airflow. So your MAF if you were to remove that plate wouldnt read the new airflow properly because it would end up running too lean due to the values it uses in the ecu to determine how much airflow is coming in. What was the CEL that it threw after the plate was removed? I would assume it would have something to do with a lean condition. Just a thought to save someone the money of buying a 501. If someone could tweak the values and make it work like that, it may be a cool DIY mod.
So what is the exact purpose of that honeycomb? I noticed my injen air filter adapter, if you look inside, has little tabs for the intake tract to swirl the air around, kinda like a vortex generator would. I feel thats kinda futile with the honeycomb there straightening all the air back out. Im sure the honeycomb is integral and I have no intention of removing it unless I can. Should I just grind off those tabs inside the adaptor then to kinda free up airflow? It seems like it wouldnt flow as freely if the air is twisting only to get immediately straightened back up.
The plastic piece that shapes the opening can be grinded bigger or removed completely. However, you would have a heck of a time figuring out the new MAF values for MAF size, MAF smoothing and MAF scaling in EcuFlash. This is one mod I would NOT recommend. Your MAF's reading plays into too many factors with the ECU to make your engine run. Plus, I don't know if the only difference between Lancer, Eclipse and Evo MAFs is just that plastic piece. The resistor in the MAF may or may not be the same. I'm inclined to think it's the same though.
I fully agree with you senate. I just wish someone would spend some time and turn it into some kind of advanced DIY mod. Would be cheaper lol. But I realize the difficulty in doing so. Now as far as this goes, doesnt the evo MAF have a yet bigger opening than even the 501 MAF? I assume though that it wouldnt work out like this due to the values being for a forced induction vehicle?
The Evo MAF does have a bigger opening, but it's not much bigger. And the values from an Evo ROM wouldn't work for the scaling. You might be able to use the MAF size from the Evo ROM and MAF scaling and MAF smoothing values from the 3G Eclipse ROM to get an approximation to how it should be setup. That's my best guess.
oh ok, I see. So...I think I want to try this but I need to get the cable for my lancer and do you guys have the files for the ECU already? I've never played with the ECU nor do I think I should play with something like that.
The only file that you need is a definition file to interpret your ECU's ROM image. And yes we have those.
