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OK-Piston removal-pics!!

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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 09:00 PM
  #46  
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The new bearings are put in-everything gets a thin coat of oil.
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 09:03 PM
  #47  
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Each piston is gently seated on the crank. Plasti-guage was used to check the bearings on the crank. everything checked out good.
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 09:06 PM
  #48  
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With the new JE pistons installed. We are are ready to put it all back together. We are getting excited! lol. so the block is cleaned off one more time and we are ready to set the head.
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 09:08 PM
  #49  
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With the head on we put the rod bolts back where they came from. I inspected each bolt and they all check out. lol
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 09:16 PM
  #50  
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So we get all the bolts in and we start to torque them down in the reuired order when we get to the bolt (intake side) that the piston blew up in #2. So we start to torque to 55 ft pds. The bolt just turns and turns, never get tights no where close. I am freakin out thinking that we stripped it out. So we take the head back off. Threads look fine, bolt looks fine. Put it all back on. Same thing we get the bolt intake side piston #2. We turn and turn, So i am thinking that head is just pressing down cause I have a few other bolts aready tourge to 55 pounds , so we turn and finally it pops. So i am thinking- I'm Fu@%ed here. Turns out the threads where fine and the bolt never got anymore than hand tight at the threads. It must of lost its strenth during the big nitrous explosion.lol . So monday I am going to order all new head bolts.
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 06:03 AM
  #51  
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When you're torquing down a head, bring the bolts down evenly. Do them in the required order, but torque them down in 20lb incriments. Eg: Do all the bolts in the required order to 20lbs, then do them all again to 40lbs, then do them all to 55lbs. You'll end up with a more even crush of the gasket, and no broken bolts. (also... after you're done torquing it down, wait at least an hour... I like to wait overnight, then torque them all back to their fianl torque.)

Also, be sure you're installing the bolts as per manufacturers spec. If they installed them dry, install them dry. If they installed them with lube, or loctite, do the same. Otherwise the torque readings will differ from those of the manufacturer, and you'll end up doing this again later...
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 07:28 AM
  #52  
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in the middle of the post of all the new pictures im thinking, "did this guy order new head bolts?" and then i come across a picture of a broken head bolt, lol, well, they are only liek $45, it probably would have been a good idea to get new head bolts in the first place, but it was aminor detail i forgot to mention, your ALMOST there ! i am too, but i need to wait till monday to get a cylinder head from a junkyard guy
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 11:05 AM
  #53  
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Now you gotta ask yourself.... what about the rod bolts?
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Old Nov 15, 2003 | 11:49 AM
  #54  
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All of the bolts , head and rod bolts where inspected according to the service manual. The rod bolts and nuts where replaced because when tightening back down and checking the paint marks they where more than 100 degrees off. Not all one or two. But the head bolts seemed fine. I was very lucky there wasnt any damage when that bolt broke. So I ordered the head bolts today and they will be here Tuesday. I also wanted to add that I changed dealerships. I am lucky there are two here in Knoxville. While picking up parts I was talking to one of the service guys, asking questions about my install. He got very upset with me, told me that he was not going to help me answer my questions and said that it was work that he should be doing at the dealership. I tried to explain how I voided my warranty so It couldnt of been a warranty repair. He was still an *******. It really pissed me off. So needless to say I switched dealerships. I guess it doesnt matter anymore how many cars you buy from someone.
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 12:03 AM
  #55  
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dealership people are just mad because they don't make ****. when some guy told me i voided my warranty cuz of my turbo i laughed at him and said 'do you think i didnt know that you ignorant fuc*.' then he shut up real quick like a good hoe.
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 12:52 AM
  #56  
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I went back to dealership couple weeks ago for some crack noise from the control arm or somewhere else. Then I showed the service consultant and the service manager, and the fxxking moron manager said it's because of your new rims, blah~blah~!! Hmm...how come it didn't happen in the early morning or raining days and I said I can't accept this answer!!
He also test drive my car like go-cart and saying he was trying to figure out where was the noise from. Wow!! You became a tech instead of a moron manager. I brought all the info. that people posted in this forums and he said he got no info. from MITZ headquarter, he didn't know what's going on( of course! you're just a moron manager not tech person) and then told me come back next time when the higher level manager is here.
That's fine! I would glad to do that. I went back again and they took my car for inspection with their "high level manager" instead of tech person. After 15 minutes, they came to tell me about the warrenty, they said I voided the warrenty because of new rims, exhaust, intake, rotor, even the tail lights. I said I checked with the tech person before and he said it's ok. These moron managers jsut didn't believe me that their employees said that. And they told me " we will do the inspection if you can put all the stock stuff back." Are u kidding me? Now I'm so disappointed with the dealership and try to figure out the problem by myself. They just want to grab the money from you and they hope they won't see u again if there is any issue with warrenty. Shame on you, Hiley Mitz.!!
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 09:05 PM
  #57  
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i'm thinking instead of ordering a new head bolt, why not take the time to upgrade to head studs. they're stronger and better IMO
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 10:10 PM
  #58  
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the head bolts dont need to be upgraded, they are perfectly fine, its just that when you take your engine apart like that, you start wearng the thread on the bolt so it doesnt stay as tight, if we all had our way, each time you take off the head, you should replace the head bolts, but no ones perfect
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Old Nov 16, 2003 | 10:38 PM
  #59  
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I noticed an earlier pic, The connecting rods look way skinny. That might be a part someone should make readilly available
just my take we need that part!
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 09:31 AM
  #60  
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nice lil project there but be careful

i see exposed engine internals and leaves in your whipper area close to the firewall
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