ROAD/RACE- Anyone interested in FORGED N/A PISTONS?
then why are you asking us what it's going to cost? Do you plan to ship your entire engine to RRM for the boring
There must be someone who can do it if you're really interested. but as Baha said, your pistons won't fit if you do a standard overbore...
There must be someone who can do it if you're really interested. but as Baha said, your pistons won't fit if you do a standard overbore...
why am i asking? bc i may have to take a trip down to orlando and i know rrm doesnt do boring. my engine is going to be apart anyways. and i am not putting these pistons in anyways.
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Honestly do not know cost. We always do our own with a cordless drill and a hone. So far we have not boned a job yet. But we will only work on our own motors. point is we never had to pay anyone to do it.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
" We have some Hyperuetectic 10.5 : 1 CR pistons strictly for N/A applications only. Can be fitted into a stock engine with no mods or ecu mods requried. Very good upgrade option and one we use a lot of. "
This is what RPW said in their new thread. They have the same pistons as we do but made from a different material and they work without any ecu mods. Pretty interesting.
They also mentioned something about forged pisonts need to be warmed up longer than the stock ones otherwise we can say good bye to them.
"Forges are great we use them but really, in a street car you can't just hop in, start it up and drive away otherwise they pistons dno't warm up properly and say goodbye to a piston skirt.
Something to consider." -- RPW
Is that true Rock???
This is what RPW said in their new thread. They have the same pistons as we do but made from a different material and they work without any ecu mods. Pretty interesting.
They also mentioned something about forged pisonts need to be warmed up longer than the stock ones otherwise we can say good bye to them.
"Forges are great we use them but really, in a street car you can't just hop in, start it up and drive away otherwise they pistons dno't warm up properly and say goodbye to a piston skirt.
Something to consider." -- RPW
Is that true Rock???
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Partly true. These are basically the same thing. They need to warm up to seat completely and thus make the complete intended compression. But then when you do compression checks on any engine you always need the engine to be warmed up to give you accurate readings. So.... Hope that explains things.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
Originally Posted by ROCK
Partly true. These are basically the same thing. They need to warm up to seat completely and thus make the complete intended compression. But then when you do compression checks on any engine you always need the engine to be warmed up to give you accurate readings. So.... Hope that explains things.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE

Hey Rock, I just installed the pistons on saturday. Now I need to get my head back and I'll be able to get the whole thing back together and i can be driving it again. How much of a break in period should there be and what kind of driving? Should I stay under 4000 rpms for a while? Just like when you buy a new car and break it in. By the way, what oil should I be running with the turbo setup? I remember you guys telling me but I forgot. thanks
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Break them in normal Like Boe said. Run 20/50 oil with this motor. Get the correct spark plugs!!!!
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
Last edited by ROCK; Feb 1, 2005 at 07:33 AM.
Originally Posted by gregivq
Run 20/50 oil all the time? Can we change it to synthetic after brake in period? And what do you mean correct spark plugs???
Dang so many questions!
Dang so many questions!


