post all STRANGE NOISE complaints here
Yup that damn alternator belt seems to need tightening every few months for me I dont know why but I just tighten it up every few months when I hear it starting to squeal and Im good. The belt is less than a year old too. Had the same issue with the last belt
So the other day I was in my house and all of a sudden i hear a noise outside. It was hot out and my horn was i guess stuck and was causing it to constantly honk. Has anybody else had any problems with heat and their horn going off or getting stuck?
I just recently had a transfer case installed on my 2006 evo ix and the car worked great for about a day. The next day I woke up and started to pull the car out of the drive way when I hear a weird ticking sound. The ticking sound comes from under the car on the driver side. But the ticking noise only happens when the car is moving in other words driving. If you drive slow it ticks slow as you accelerate the ticking does too. But if you putt the car in neutral there's no ticking sound you can even rev the car while its in neutral and there's no ticking noise. Does anybody have any ideas?
My accessory belt squeals like a mother on cold starts (2003 OZ rally). I have changed the belt and the tensioner. Any advice - I have already tried tightening it and loosening it and nothing seems to make a difference.
I am thinking of changing out the tensioner hardware - does anyone know where I can get these items or the part numbers?
I am thinking of changing out the tensioner hardware - does anyone know where I can get these items or the part numbers?
I have a rotational whirring noise when making sweeping left hand turns. Not when going around a corner but when making gradual left turns down the road.
any ideas or advice.. sounds like it is right unders the driver's floor board. i can feel it with my feet. Bearing maybe...
any ideas or advice.. sounds like it is right unders the driver's floor board. i can feel it with my feet. Bearing maybe...
ok so recently my 03 OZ lancer has started making a ticking noise.
I am hoping this is nothing serious the car has 145,000 miles, so I understand things are goin to start failing.
Here is a Video of the issue http://youtu.be/p4__C1WWzNc?hd=1
Please post any ideas or thoughts,
Thanks for the Help.
I am hoping this is nothing serious the car has 145,000 miles, so I understand things are goin to start failing.
Here is a Video of the issue http://youtu.be/p4__C1WWzNc?hd=1
Please post any ideas or thoughts,
Thanks for the Help.
valve lash too big, is what it sounds like...pull the cover and measure all your gaps, it sounds like one or two are slapping...how's your oil? last change? and weight of oil?
Note, About 3-4 years ago, the stupid Valvoline oil change did not properly put back on the drain plug and I ended up with real low levels, where I had the Tickining up the ying yang. mitsubishi said there was no harm done but ever since then the motor was louder(not like it is now, but louder than when i bought it) , could they have been damaged then and finally gave out now?
You have valvetrain noise caused by incorrect lash. You have one of three issues going on
1. One or more of the lash adjusters are dirty
2. One or more have collapsed and need replaced
3. Air has entered one or more of them causing the excessive lash.
Here is something to try if #3 is the case.
Bleeding lash adjuster system
1. Check engine oil. Add or change oil as required.
NOTE: If the engine oil level is low, air is sucked from the oil
screen, causing air to enter the oil passage.
NOTE: If the engine oil level is higher than specification, oil
may be stirred by the crankshaft, causing oil to be mixed
with air creating aerated (foaming) oil.
NOTE: If oil is deteriorated, air is not easily separated from
oil, increasing the quantity of air contained in oil.
NOTE: If air mixed with oil enters the high pressure chamber
inside the lash adjuster from the above causes, air in the
high pressure chamber is compressed excessively while the
valve is being opened, resulting in an abnormal noise when
the valve closes.
This is the same phenomenon as that observed when the
valve clearance has become excessive. The lash adjuster
can resume normal function when air entered the lash
adjuster is removed.
2. Idle the engine for one to three minutes to warm it up
Repeat the operation pattern, shown in left figure, at no load
to check for abnormal noise. (Usually the abnormal noise is
eliminated after repetition of the operation 10 to 30 times. If,
however, no change is observed in the level of abnormal
noise after repeating the operation more than 30 times,
suspect that the abnormal noise is due to some other
factors.)
4. After elimination of abnormal noise, repeat the operation
shown in left figure five more times.
5. Run the engine at idle for one to three minutes to make sure
that the abnormal noise has been eliminated.
AKX00330
OPEN THROTTLE
VALVE GRADUALLY
CLOSE
THROTTLE VALVE
APPROXIMATELY
3,000 r/min
IDLING
OPERATION
ONE CYCLE
15 s 15 s
AIR BLEEDING OPERATION PATTERN
AD

If this does not fix your problem then its either dirty or has failed. In either case the cam will have to be removed and lash adjusters pulled and cleaned and/or replaced.
i have a weird hussing noise which has now turned into a full on grinding/metal noise whenever there is load on the front left. seems to be quieter when wet. this happens at 5mph + usually when turning right, but generally when the weight has shift to that corner. everytime i take it in to show someone the noise gets shy. gah !
i have a weird hussing noise which has now turned into a full on grinding/metal noise whenever there is load on the front left. seems to be quieter when wet. this happens at 5mph + usually when turning right, but generally when the weight has shift to that corner. everytime i take it in to show someone the noise gets shy. gah !


