the first gen 4G63 engine block is 'stand alone' it will not support a second gen head, BUT the second gen 4G63 is the precursur of the EVO, with the 7 bolt crank, the second gen block will support the EVO cylinder head, the difference is the oil return holes in the block returning the oil back to the oil pan
If you wanted to build a cheap EVO engine, you would use a second gen block and place an EVO head on it after you drilled the return holes in the block, the first gen block was not casted at the factory to accept the extra drian holes
so what Justin is saying is correct, the trade off will be 2 fold, the inlet ports in the second gen are small and the crankcase will have to be properly ventilated , thus the dry sump oiling, that will help venting the crankcase tremendously

 

People put 2g heads on 6 bolt blocks all the time. I have, and didnt have to drill anything.

 

I think bill means that you can't put an evo head on a 6 bolt block

 

we are not on the same page, you see the three large oil return holes in the front of the EVO9 block? they are casted into the second gen block but not drilled, in the first gen block there is no place to drill the three drains, its not in the casting pattern



this is a first or second gen headgasket placed on an EVO 9 block, it looks and works just the same on the second gen block but the holes aint drilled IN THE BLOCK so what I said was


if you wanted to build a Cheap EVO engine, you can mate the EVO head to the second gen block by drilling the return holes

 

here are some tools I put together to build the dry sump

I built a portable resivour with a flow meter so I could test the OEM oil volume from the pump

once I know what the manufacturere numbers are , then I can work on the improvement

I bought out a speed shop with several sets of pumps in new condition to work with

 

i love to see stuff like this. keep it up. def, subcribed

 

digging the vw oil pump in the bottom...lol

 

That rig looks good bill. I have a few oem oil pumps if you want one to see how much flow they generate. I am interested in seeing your pan we were talking about.

On another note, after I am finished building the headers for that white ls1-is300, I will get back to work on my car again. I need to install the steering rack, then I can push the car back in the shop. I will get started on the engine mounts. My goal is to have the engine mounted, and a new firewall made by the end of august. Then it will be roll cage time

 

I like to use my frame guages to position the engine before the mounts are built

that way I can get a good driveshaft angle and place the offcenter in the engine cradle

Trans adapt saves you a lot of time building engine mounts with thier kits, I get them out of Jegs

 

oooohhh so you spin the head around, leaving the cams in their place? can you simply switch the intake cam with the exhaust cam after spinning the head around and call it a day?

 

I applaud the build however I don't agree with your reasoning for not using a 1g/2g 4g63 block with the 4g63 head. As many DSM Guys know, "ALL 1g/2g 4g63 blocks do NOT Like to CrankWalk".

There are better solution's to your build and I would suggest a 6bolt 4g63 block or a 4g64 block with 63 head, similar to MA Performance's Rx7/4g63/4g64 build.

Good luck otherwise on your build...

 

The port shapes, valve sizes, and manifold flanges, will not allow you to properly switch cam sides. They will bolt in on either side, since the cam sensor on the version head I have is built into the cam gear.

I want to go long rod 2.4l eventually, but that was way more excpensive then building the 2.3l like I am. I am personally not the biggest fan of the 6bolt block due to all the internals being bigger. I know beefier is stronger, but I would like as little rotational mass as possible. I also am aware of the ways to make a 7bolt not want to crankwalk, but I literially had a spare evo block and 2.3 stroker pistons. (A good friend built a longrod 2.4) so this way just fell together for me. There are many ways to build a 500whp 4g63, and as long as it makes the power reliably, and within budget, it is the right way in my book.

 

+1 Oil drain ports do not line up!!

 

I figured I would post something since I am so excited. Yesterday, bill sent me a tracking number for a test fit bellhousing. This way I can get started making my mounts and manifolds. The next few weeks expect to see a lot of stuff getting done.

 

The mock up bellhousing came in, this will be replaced by a full one once it gets made. Now it is time to make the engine and transmission mounts. Expect more pics later this week.