Focus RS
Aug 18, 2016, 08:20 AM
#4486
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
If you remove that blanking plate, does it have charge temp issues with the stock tune?
I think part of the issue is that the SC is too small for how much air its pushing. I've heard stories about people putting the 2.3L TVS units on there (think stock is 1.7 or 1.9) and running less boost to make the same power but run cooler. Given the price of the cooling system upgrade, the blower swap isn't that crazy of an idea...
Aug 18, 2016, 08:31 AM
#4488
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Aug 18, 2016, 08:35 AM
#4489
No, I don't have an oil temp gauge in my car, but I'm sure they're too hot with the power the red provides in the track tune. I never used to worry about it on the stock turbo. After the last track day I'm not doing another one until I have an upgraded cooler, racefab pan, and a better radiator. The car ran pretty toasty. Oil was brown and smelled a little burnt when I drained it, never had that before. Also had the oil light flickering at idle after session's, never had that before either.
Once I start monitoring oil temp, I will work to keep it below 230. Trophy trucks have big cooling systems to keep the motor alive, not simply because they have the room.
Once I start monitoring oil temp, I will work to keep it below 230. Trophy trucks have big cooling systems to keep the motor alive, not simply because they have the room.
FWIW with my ams pan, stock rad, stock oil cooler and 170* t stat on an 85* day I didn't have any cooling issues at 450whp at Sebring. I've done a handful of track days but I'm not a pro driver by any means. Oil temps peaked at 265* Coolant was 185* for 30 min sessions.
I've got alot of faith an OEM coolers on the Evo and Supra. There have also been a number of time attack cars with OEM radiators . Great cooling BUT if they get over pressurized could blow the end tanks off and have a bigger issue. Also keeping the factory radiator is also beneficial to the a/c condenser for airflow.
I've also spoken with Greg@GSC and some of the popular radiators were tested and did worse then the stock one.
Back to the Focus! Sorry for getting slightly off topic.
Aug 18, 2016, 08:42 AM
#4490
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I don't think you will get to 230* unless you move the radiator to the back or drive like my grandfather..LOL I wouldn't really worry about 250-275* temps with modern oil .
FWIW with my ams pan, stock rad, stock oil cooler and 170* t stat on an 85* day I didn't have any cooling issues at 450whp at Sebring. I've done a handful of track days but I'm not a pro driver by any means. Oil temps peaked at 265* Coolant was 185* for 30 min sessions.
I've got alot of faith an OEM coolers on the Evo and Supra. There have also been a number of time attack cars with OEM radiators . Great cooling BUT if they get over pressurized could blow the end tanks off and have a bigger issue. Also keeping the factory radiator is also beneficial to the a/c condenser for airflow.
I've also spoken with Greg@GSC and some of the popular radiators were tested and did worse then the stock one.
Back to the Focus! Sorry for getting slightly off topic.
FWIW with my ams pan, stock rad, stock oil cooler and 170* t stat on an 85* day I didn't have any cooling issues at 450whp at Sebring. I've done a handful of track days but I'm not a pro driver by any means. Oil temps peaked at 265* Coolant was 185* for 30 min sessions.
I've got alot of faith an OEM coolers on the Evo and Supra. There have also been a number of time attack cars with OEM radiators . Great cooling BUT if they get over pressurized could blow the end tanks off and have a bigger issue. Also keeping the factory radiator is also beneficial to the a/c condenser for airflow.
I've also spoken with Greg@GSC and some of the popular radiators were tested and did worse then the stock one.
Back to the Focus! Sorry for getting slightly off topic.
Maybe for next track day, I'll only install the racefab oil pan, get real coolant and oil temp data, and go from there. Under 250 I think I would be happy with. Makes me wonder on the radiator. I have a CSF oem replacement. Maybe it's not as efficient as a true OEM piece. Water temps were ~235 (my zeitronix only shows coolant temp in voltage because its wired into the stock sensor, it was .35-.37 volts). The coolant expanded so much that it pushed coolant out of the reservoir, and once it cooled, sucked the reservoir dry and there was still room in radiator to add coolant lol. I have no idea what my oil temps were, I'm going to go with hot judging by how the oil looked an smelled when I changed it.
Aug 18, 2016, 09:25 AM
#4492
Evolving Member
My Evo 8 would do about 250-270F oil temps after about 4 laps, then I would run a cool down lap and do another two laps.
Stock oil cooler but upgraded radiator. If it was over 100F ambient half the above quoted laps.
Check out this AWESOME thread about getting a C7 Z06 to actually be able to lap without going into limp mode. Stock oil temps where north of 300.
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49484
Stock oil cooler but upgraded radiator. If it was over 100F ambient half the above quoted laps.
Check out this AWESOME thread about getting a C7 Z06 to actually be able to lap without going into limp mode. Stock oil temps where north of 300.
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49484
Aug 18, 2016, 09:36 AM
#4493
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Its how dirt bikes work. Since they don't even have an overflow, you underfill the radiator a touch. As the motor warms up, it spits some coolant out of the rad cap out let, then its fine.
Aug 18, 2016, 09:37 AM
#4494
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The following users liked this post:
kyoo (Aug 18, 2016)
Aug 18, 2016, 10:21 AM
#4496
what do oil temps have to do with where the radiator is? unless you put an oil cooler in front thats the size of a full radiator, haha
Aug 18, 2016, 10:27 AM
#4497
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I'm not saying they do only because they have the room, I'm saying its a lot easier to build a big cooling systems that can keep temps really low when you have that much space. its a lot harder to do in the cramped engine bays with limited front openings of most modern cars. not saying its impossible in a car, just harder, takes more custom cutting and trimming and some fabbing
I don't know all the details, but they were saying it was helping with temps everywhere. it was on some podcast I was listening to.
what do oil temps have to do with where the radiator is? unless you put an oil cooler in front thats the size of a full radiator, haha
I don't know all the details, but they were saying it was helping with temps everywhere. it was on some podcast I was listening to.
what do oil temps have to do with where the radiator is? unless you put an oil cooler in front thats the size of a full radiator, haha
I didn't say it would be easy, and I plan on having to do something custom, just not sure what yet.
If you put a big oil cooler in front of the radiator, your going to kill the efficiency of the radiator. Putting it in the back would make a lot of room for a nice big oil cooler.
Aug 18, 2016, 10:36 AM
#4498
Evolved Member
http://jalopnik.com/the-ford-focus-r...epo-1785321784
"Autocar suspects that, should the RS500 make it to production, it would also see a 15 percent power boost over the current Focus RS, getting power right up to 400 hp. The article cites some cosmetic changes to a suspected development mule suggesting more cooling will be needed.
Torque increases are likely to be more modest, if only to ensure that Ford doesn’t need to re-engineer the RS’s six-speed manual gearbox and four-wheel drive system, which is built around a clever GKN active rear differential.
That rear diff accepts up to 70% of the RS’s torque and then uses clutch units to lock the diff 50/50 to the rear wheels, creating the Drift mode that makes the RS so much fun to drive on a circuit.
Performance is likely to increase slightly, with the 0-62mph time dropping from 4.7sec to around 4.2sec. Top speed is expected to climb a little, to 167mph or so. "
"Autocar suspects that, should the RS500 make it to production, it would also see a 15 percent power boost over the current Focus RS, getting power right up to 400 hp. The article cites some cosmetic changes to a suspected development mule suggesting more cooling will be needed.
Torque increases are likely to be more modest, if only to ensure that Ford doesn’t need to re-engineer the RS’s six-speed manual gearbox and four-wheel drive system, which is built around a clever GKN active rear differential.
That rear diff accepts up to 70% of the RS’s torque and then uses clutch units to lock the diff 50/50 to the rear wheels, creating the Drift mode that makes the RS so much fun to drive on a circuit.
Performance is likely to increase slightly, with the 0-62mph time dropping from 4.7sec to around 4.2sec. Top speed is expected to climb a little, to 167mph or so. "
Aug 18, 2016, 10:41 AM
#4499
Coolant/water expands with heat. So, it filled the overflow, then overflowed the overflow. As it contracts/cools, it creates a vacuum in the cooling system, the radiator cap is designed to allow coolant to be pull back into the radiator from the overflow. So it would then pull coolant until the overflow was empty, and then the radiator was still low. Its not consuming coolant, the whole passenger side wheel well, coilover/suspension, and wheel were covered with coolant.
Its how dirt bikes work. Since they don't even have an overflow, you underfill the radiator a touch. As the motor warms up, it spits some coolant out of the rad cap out let, then its fine.
Its how dirt bikes work. Since they don't even have an overflow, you underfill the radiator a touch. As the motor warms up, it spits some coolant out of the rad cap out let, then its fine.
What I was trying to understand and I'll admit I worded the question poorly was where is the coolant/water going? In your case it is literally spilling out of the overflow bottle. Are you sure your HG isn't compromised? What head studs do you have in there?
A couple year ago right after I switched to my BBK Full I started overflowing the spillover as well during an auto-x. There were no other signs of HG failure but I figured the head was lifting so I pulled it got rid oy my ARP basics and put in MAP H11's with a new HG and had the head checked and decked. Now my car doesn't overflow the spillover.
Aug 18, 2016, 10:53 AM
#4500
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Lol poorly worded question on my part. Yes, I understand how the system works haha but thanks for the thorough explanation
What I was trying to understand and I'll admit I worded the question poorly was where is the coolant/water going? In your case it is literally spilling out of the overflow bottle. Are you sure your HG isn't compromised? What head studs do you have in there?
A couple year ago right after I switched to my BBK Full I started overflowing the spillover as well during an auto-x. There were no other signs of HG failure but I figured the head was lifting so I pulled it got rid oy my ARP basics and put in MAP H11's with a new HG and had the head checked and decked. Now my car doesn't overflow the spillover.
What I was trying to understand and I'll admit I worded the question poorly was where is the coolant/water going? In your case it is literally spilling out of the overflow bottle. Are you sure your HG isn't compromised? What head studs do you have in there?
A couple year ago right after I switched to my BBK Full I started overflowing the spillover as well during an auto-x. There were no other signs of HG failure but I figured the head was lifting so I pulled it got rid oy my ARP basics and put in MAP H11's with a new HG and had the head checked and decked. Now my car doesn't overflow the spillover.
Back to the FoRS, someone in LA is trying to sell a used one with 300 miles for $55k...LAWLZ
