You'd go with 235/45 A046s over 245/40 Neovas?

 

In general, yes. Most everyone runs a thinner tire in the wet including drivers who run Hoosier wets. I can't say 10mm makes much of a difference, but the A046 tread design seems to work very well in light to standing water.

kekek is correct, Andy and John ran the Yoko's only on the wet surface during day 1. To add, they brought their full tread stock Yoko's to the 06' Nationals last fall in case it rained again. Topeka has a habit of raining at least part of National's week. I've read somewhere the event had rain 5 out of the last 7 years.

Dave

 

How about in the dry?

 

thanks for the explainlation, i guess i was thinking prosolo when i was looking at the results

 

The next event I ran after Nationals this past year was a road course autox at Texas Motor Speedway hosted by the Texas region. It poured rain that day....I mean POURED. Standing water on the track(racing asphault) on the whole course and it was cold. Us STUers (me in my RX8) ran on our Nationals tires, Yok Advans, which were shaved to 4/32nd.

http://autocross.com/tr/tr806.shtml

If you look at the results, STU was almost the fastest class of the day and the only cars faster were a few SS ones on rains. The Advans, even shaved (and I was on 275's in a RWD car) felt incredible and I felt that I could really push them hard. Basically we all decided that having a set of dedicated rain tires is worthless in STU regardless of size or shaving. Now regarding that event, if I hadn't hit those two worthless cones in the offset I could have gotten 2nd! Anyway, that was the last outing in the 8 anyway before we sold it for the Evo.

Pics from that day for proof http://www.autocrosspictures.net/SCC...506/index.html

 

What tire did the 2003 Evo have that Mark Berry drove?.

Dave

 

Mark was on V710's at this rain event and on Hoosier A6's at Nationals.

 

Actually Jim, I still had the Hoosier A6 on for the October rain event. I had only used them at Nationals, so they were still like new.

I rolled the dice and stayed with R-compounds and experienced what I have seen several times before. Unless the course has a lot of standing water puddles, you are better off sticking with R-compounds. I think I was one of very few folks in the rainy first heat not running rain tires and it produced some pretty fast times since the 285/30 tires were able to still get enough grip.

Mark

 

Hey guys. I'm going to post my bone stock RS dyno pull that I had recorded at CBRD Racing Development yesterday. I've got to get my scanner working first but I'll post the numbers here in text.

This pull was made on a Mustang Dyno. Ambient temp 65 deg with temp adjustment ratio of .992 (approximate). I'll have to call Chad to pull up my file again or see if I can get a digital copy to post.

(for the noobs) Mustang dynos show WHP, not crank HP.


Filter mode: FIR, Fliter value: 60

Min Max Avg
Eng Torque T WC (Ft-Lb) 180 235 214

Eng Power T WC (HP) 138 237 208

AFR (Ratio) 10.7 12.1 11.3

I'll post again once I get some of the exhaust/intake parts on the car and post pre-tuned with just parts and post tuned. I'm not going to go into exhaustive details but it will give folks an idea of what can be expected with STU legal parts.

If you have any deep questions concerning the dyno pull my answer is this....I don't know. I'm simply posting for reference to what a car can generally expect with allowed mods and legal tuning. Nothing less, nothing more.


Dave Mac

 

Interesting thread. I wish that I would have read it sooner so I am going to bring up some old subjects. First, the whole point of the thread I think, was to figure out how to start a STU car. I think that coilovers and alignment should be the first things to be addressed. My only input in this is that if you are going to do coilovers, do it right the first time. Get dual adjustables - most top drivers, no matter the class, spend the extra money here. Second, find what works for you. It is almost impossible to figure out what is "The Best". There are way too many variables in this sport, even if you try to base a setup off of a single driver. You would need to make several assumptions to do this. Each race has different weather, rubber, surface plus the biggest factor is the course is different too. There are Evo courses and STI courses, dry and wet, etc. And Nationals last year, should not be a basis for anything. It was such a strange surface that experienced drivers were as confused as I was. One would say "Tighten the car", the next "Loosen it". One would say "Drive aggressive", the next "Be smooth".Plus, the difference from day 1 to day 2 was unbelievable. It sucks but the best way to figure it out is wheel time and experience. I recommend keeping a log. It is the best way to remember where your mind was on a certain experience. Congrats on pickin' the right Evo, the RS is the only way to go (that should start a fire)!

BTW, Dave, see ya at Milwaukee this year, if not sooner.

Tucker

 

Anybody happen to buy one of the "race cats" that Rick was selling that decided they don't need it now? I'd like to buy one from somebody if they would be willing to part with it.

Corey #89 STU

 

Corey-

Did you consider the Perrin or APS? Both are good units and are completely metal substrates. You can see through either one.

 

Can the Whiteline Rear Bumpsteer Correction kit be installed in STU?

 

Yes.

 

I also have a question regarding Samco intercooler hoses.

Are they considered legal under the term 'alternate components'(13.0 and 13.10, paragraph J) permitted in the Stock Category to begin with?