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2008 Street Mod Discussion

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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #271  
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
I used the stock front locations. If you get the right size bolts and washers and spacers you can keep the stock front belts for tooling around town. . .
what kind of harnesses do you have? i have the takata ones and the short bolts dont work and no place around where i live sells the long eye bolt so i guess i just have to order it off the internet
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #272  
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got these today from WORKS. their spring rates were weak so i am going to experiment with different ones and probably revalve them. also i got some ground control camber plates for the front that are coming in next week
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 06:25 PM
  #273  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by evobeatsti
if you are buying new wheels go up a size! at least get 17x10's haha
My fenders would burst
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 06:27 PM
  #274  
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Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1
My fenders would burst
you can actually fit like 18x10.5 nt03+m's in the front with stock fenders
and 18x10's safely in the back
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 08:58 PM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by evobeatsti
also i got some ground control camber plates for the front that are coming in next week
Let us know how the GC plates work for you. We tried a set on donour's car and they were junk.

Put some grease between the upper part of the spring perch and the camber plate itself, that might cure some of the creaking/groaning problems.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 09:47 PM
  #276  
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Originally Posted by Czubaka
Let us know how the GC plates work for you. We tried a set on donour's car and they were junk.

Put some grease between the upper part of the spring perch and the camber plate itself, that might cure some of the creaking/groaning problems.
ok, i have heard from a few places that the GC plates are the best available. i got some custom made for the ohlins so we will see how they work. thanks for the heads up tho
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 09:50 AM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by evobeatsti
ok, everyone with harnesses (jarrod) where did you mount them?
Does anyone run the Sparco harness bar?
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #278  
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Originally Posted by evobeatsti
got these today from WORKS. their spring rates were weak so i am going to experiment with different ones and probably revalve them. also i got some ground control camber plates for the front that are coming in next week
I have the same setup and was wondering what spring rates yours came with? And if you don't mind me asking what your going to try? I'm going to try some different rates on them myself this year. I'm not quite sure i want to go all out auto-x rates as i use these for hillclimbs alot, and the roads that they are held on are not exactly the smooothest around.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 02:25 PM
  #279  
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by jerdeitzel
I have the same setup and was wondering what spring rates yours came with? And if you don't mind me asking what your going to try? I'm going to try some different rates on them myself this year. I'm not quite sure i want to go all out auto-x rates as i use these for hillclimbs alot, and the roads that they are held on are not exactly the smooothest around.
i ordered mine without springs since i knew i was going to change them anyways, i think works said they come with something like 8k 10k. due to some recomendation i am going to start out some where in the 14k/16k range and go from there
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by evobeatsti
i ordered mine without springs since i knew i was going to change them anyways, i think works said they come with something like 8k 10k. due to some recomendation i am going to start out some where in the 14k/16k range and go from there
Nice pics! I have the same set sitting in my basement with custom springs. You'll definately need to revalve the rears if you plan to run 16K, as stock the rears are supposed to only run 8K and you are doubling the spring rate.
Contact these guys:

http://www.performanceshocks.com/

They used to do the revalve for Works. Talk to Bruce and mention Suraj sent you.
Didn't the coilovers come with Ohlins front camber plates and rear pillow ball mounts?
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 06:28 PM
  #281  
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they come with works camber plates and pollow ball mounts but i got them without the front camber plates and just got GC ones since i heard that they were better and relatively the same cost. I have a guy here where i live that can revalve them but if not i appreciate the advice
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by evobeatsti
they come with works camber plates and pollow ball mounts but i got them without the front camber plates and just got GC ones since i heard that they were better and relatively the same cost. I have a guy here where i live that can revalve them but if not i appreciate the advice
Where did you hear they were "better". Their adjustment range is good, but that upper perch that rides along the bottom of the plate sucks. It makes a crapload of noise clunks, and grinds itself away. I could only bear them for about a week.

d
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 10:14 PM
  #283  
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i dont know enough about suspension to say anything but i heard that the way the perch and the spring come together is superior, i could be wrong and in that case i will order some works camber plates
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 07:38 AM
  #284  
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I heard the same thing, and it theory it seems to be a good idea. However, the execution is very poor. The torrington bearing in the upper perch didn't seem to rotate at all.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 08:30 AM
  #285  
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Originally Posted by evobeatsti
ok, i have heard from a few places that the GC plates are the best available. i got some custom made for the ohlins so we will see how they work. thanks for the heads up tho
Good luck with the Ground control plates. I had a set once, you can have all my broken spare parts too if you want them.

The problem areas on the GC plates is the centered around the spherical bearing they use. They have a custom top hat that fits nicely into the slider assembly. I was really impressed with the engineering in this part. It's designed to remove the force of the shock action from the shaft of the shock, and spreads it accross the entire surface area of the top hat.

However as the parts wear, the flaws in this design really come out. The bearing uses a grease impregnated cloth material to lubricate the bearing. Any lateral load at all pushes/squeezes the cloth out of the bearing. The load can be caused by just torqing down the top nut too hard, or keeping it too lose and allowing the dreaded top nut clunk to occur.

Lose that cloth lubrication peice and you are screwed. It's progressive failure after that. The bearing itself is hot pressed into the top hat assembly during manufacturing and can't be replaced individually

This happened to me about 3 times over 50k miles. Each time you need to replace the top slider assembly at around $90 a piece. Order extra pieces because Ground control likes to work on an exchange basis. you send the broken stuff in, and they replace it or refurbish it while your car sits in pieces..
That said, their service it top notch. Very friendly on the phone, very quick to turn around the parts.

If you car is not a daily driver, these camber plates will work. If I ever use these plates again, the car will be a trailer queen.

These are race plates only!! They require a large amount of care and feeding for proper use and longevity.
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