John,

As you know, I'm using 10" RPO3's up front and 9.5" RPF1's in the back. I bought all four wheels from buywheelstoday.com, which claims to be one of the only stores that can ship them direct from the Enkei warehouse. They can get you anything that's in stock at Enkei. My cost was $390 each for the RP03's and $360 each for the RPF1's, with $100 shipping, which I thought was quite reasonable.

That included the hub rings, by the way.

Mike

 

Will do. I'll be the Silver EVO VIII with the Robispec banner across the rear window.

 

This is IMHO the best mini-battery tray out there:
http://www.paradigmperformance.net/p.../evo/batt.html

The next best, and the one I use (bought it before the PPI one was developed) is the Nisei tray.

Both of these are designed around the most common light battery used, the Odyssey PC-680. You can find them from $90-125 if you don't get it in kit form. There is also a newer Braille battery with a carbon fiber shell that weights 6-8#, but it has less power than the PC-680. There is also a new battery from VoltFreaks that uses Nano polymer technology that weighs 3# ($400) and has about as much power as the smaller Braille unit. Both of these, being a non-standard size, will require modification to any small battery kit you get, or a custom made mounting bracket. . .

The tiny batteries are fine for a full race car that is kept on a battery tender between races. For a DD, I would not go smaller than the PC-680. Works fine for a Michigan winter even with an AEM EMS that requires quite a bit more cranking than the stock ECU. Expect to replace it about every 2 years. . .

Another good investment would be a lightweight racing bucket seat. You can drop some good weight here and add some comfort and safety. Be careful and do your homework. Some seats that you'd think are light are not. . .

 

Mike,

I posted a whole bunch of weight reduction stuff here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...7&postcount=21

I have the rear suspension weights now but need to add the #'s.

John

 

...And I'll be the silver Evo in P-BSP... dirty as hell

 

Mike,

I agree with jarrod about the Odyssey PC680. The only time my car hasn't started is when the car has sat for over 3 weeks in the winter. otherwise it's great and the charge comes right back.

The wing can be removed via UD/BD to the RS. The trunk does not have to be changed since UD/BD in SP does not need to be complete. Only the engine/transmission must be complete. I use some vinyl over the holes on mine. Your 03 wing weighs 8lbs.

I'll let you do some reading for the other items.

John

 

So the SEB just added the 335 and 135 to BSP...

 

Thanks, John and Jarrod. I'll go with the PC680 battery, then, and remove the wing, IC spray bottle and trunk liner. Looks like those are the easiest bang for the buck.

The other big weight savings you mentioned is the exhaust. I have the Fujitsubo cat-back, and the Invidia down-pipe and O2 housing. But I have no idea how much they weigh, compared to stock. I should have been weighing stuff before it was installed, I know.

As for a light-weight racing seat, my driver's seat has the common problem with the broken plastic shell on the right side, and the fabric is wearing out on the left side bolster, so I don't mind replacing it. Can anyone point me towards a lighter seat? And maybe one with more side support?

Mike

 

Race Tech RT4000. Very light and stiff, and reasonably priced. . . but not FIA approved if I remember correctly. . . 13.4#

http://www.racetechseatsna.com/race_seats/RT4000.html

It has good shoulder support, lower back support, and hip support, but the thigh bolsters taper down and out near the front of the seat so you don't have to climb over 6" tall side bolsters to get in and out of the car. Great street and autocross seats that will be respectable on a road course. . .

 

it looks like a shark

 

so, I finally have fried my clutch and I figure since Im taking the trans out anyways, Im looking for a couple of upgrade ideas. I definitely want to install a lightweight flywheel(dont know why this wasnt done when the ACT was installed last time), but Im seriously thinking about a front LSD for my 03. My questions are: which flywheel should I go with? Im thinking of either of the act choices, since I already have the ACT flywheel; or the fidanza flywheel, since it seems popular. Ive heard a lot about the quaife diff, but is it driveable? My car is still a DD, so I dont want to do something that will need to be rebuilt in 10k miles. Ive also heard of just using the factory one, is it worth it?

 

I like the ACT ones because they're steel, not aluminum. Get the lighter of the two if you get the ACT. I have the heavy one and wish I had gone lighter.

 

I've got the ACT prolite and no problems so far. Somewhere around 20k miles and many launches.

As for the diff, I don't think there is a major functional difference between the OEM RS diff and the Quaife. Haven't heard of anyone grenading an RS diff on SP power levels. This lends me to say buy an RS diff since it is quite a bit cheaper than the Quaife. Now worries about driveability with either, they are seamless on the street.

John

 

ACT prolite it is then


Is the dealership the only place to find an OEM diff?

 

I know TRE sells them and installs too. He did mine and will also check the mesh pattern and reshim if necessary if you have him do the install. From his website it looks like he's on vacation for a month or so. I am sure that Shep can perform the same service for you. I would also recommend having your TC sent out for the install and have it checked out (gears checked for any signs of compaction or cracking).

John