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2008 STU discussion

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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:34 AM
  #376  
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From: Denver, CO
If you look at the curb weights of the EVO 9s,
RS = 3219lb
GSR = 3274lb
MR = 3285lb

Between the regular MR and GSR that is a difference of 11lbs. Between the RS and MR its a difference of 66lbs. Between the RS and the GSR its a difference of 55lb. On a 3200lb chasis, its upto you to decide if that makes significant difference. Lose 55-66lbs in exchange for EBD-ABS, power windows, power doorlocks, etc ...
The fastest EVO @ the 07 Nats was an EVO9 MR which is the "heaviest" of the bunch.

At times I've had a 150lb passenger ride with me and I've been able to go faster around a course but thats more likely due my inconsistency as driver. Personally, I wouldn't give up creature comforts between the different models, although every little bit counts.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #377  
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Having power locks and windows, and HID in a DD is nice and I would want to keep those, as well as the ABS since I drive in the ice and snow a lot. The sunroof, additional sound deadening, and other non-trim-specific heavy items (like the IC sprayer and rear wiper) I could do without too if removing them were allowed, but those are no handicap if everyone else has them.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by hokiruu
...as well as the ABS since I drive in the ice and snow a lot.
Just a warning, if you drive it in the ice and snow, you may want to swap out any performance brake pads. When I was living in Virginia, I didn't have any trouble with braking in ice/snow when I had the stock pads -- but with upgraded pads (in my case, Porterfield R4S), I found that I could actually lock up all four tires on icy roads. And the ABS won't help you if you lock up all four (obviously, it thinks the car is stopped).
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:45 AM
  #379  
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That is really good to know, thanks. I think that actually may have happened to me long ago when I go caught in a freak spring storm in my 240sx with Hawk HP+ in Z32 brakes with ABS.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:45 PM
  #380  
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Originally Posted by jbrennen
Just a warning, if you drive it in the ice and snow, you may want to swap out any performance brake pads. When I was living in Virginia, I didn't have any trouble with braking in ice/snow when I had the stock pads -- but with upgraded pads (in my case, Porterfield R4S), I found that I could actually lock up all four tires on icy roads. And the ABS won't help you if you lock up all four (obviously, it thinks the car is stopped).
Are you sure it didn't happen when you pressed in the clutch while braking? If the clutch is disengaged from the flywheel during braking, what you are describing may happen. I've used more aggressive pads (Ferodo DS2500s) with snow tires in the winter and never encountered that problem. For fun I would slam on the brakes on streets covered in ice/snow (in a safe manner where no other car or person is around) and ABS has always kicked in.

I used to do that when I first learned how to drive stick but after learning how to heel and toe, I don't press down on the clutch unless I intend to shift gears.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #381  
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by DaWorstPlaya
Are you sure it didn't happen when you pressed in the clutch while braking? If the clutch is disengaged from the flywheel during braking, what you are describing may happen.
Well, absolutely the car was not in gear. If you lock up all four tires with the car in gear, that would stall the engine -- and that didn't happen.

I can't be sure whether the transmission was in neutral (wheels connected to layshaft only), or whether the transmission was in gear with the clutch pedal depressed (wheels connected all the way to the clutch disc). It happened a long time ago.

Still, given the choice between running competition pads or OEM pads in winter conditions, I'd do the OEM pads -- especially given how easy it is to swap out pads on the Evo (you don't even have to unbolt the caliper).
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #382  
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From: NY/CT
Originally Posted by jbrennen
Quote:
Originally Posted by hokiruu View Post
Boardkat, many would probably say that the RS is the trim to have if you are comfortable without ABS.

I think it's more complicated than just simply ABS. The RS lacks EBD (Electronic Brake Distribution), which does a lot more than just detecting (and reacting to) lockup:

Quote:
The EBD system (standard on the Lancer Evolution, not available on the Evolution RS) utilizes computer control to help ensure optimal distribution of braking forces. In addition, this system governs rear brake forces to help reduce temperature build-up in the front brakes under hard braking conditions. Independent control of the left and right rear brakes also helps the vehicle realize better braking balance during cornering.

The Lancer Evolution's Sport ABS offers four-wheel independent control to help optimize the braking actions from each wheel and help maintain control and stability. The system utilizes a steering wheel angle sensor, longitudinal and lateral G-sensors, and four-wheel speed sensors that provide the Sport ABS computer with precise data to help the processor determine how to regulate the minute, millisecond reactions of lightweight hydraulic actuators that control braking loads.
So when you choose the RS, you're not just risking locking up the brakes if you hit the pedal too hard -- you're giving up a sophisticated active four-wheel brake balance computer.
Reading this makes me think that someone could reprogram the software that controls the brake distribution to provide whatever distribution you want which could be beneficial for racing. Also anyone know if theres a way to disable the ABS while keeping EBD active?
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 08:30 PM
  #383  
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Originally Posted by sscottttt
Reading this makes me think that someone could reprogram the software that controls the brake distribution to provide whatever distribution you want which could be beneficial for racing. Also anyone know if theres a way to disable the ABS while keeping EBD active?
I started a thread on this about a year and a half ago. Didn't go to far, but maybe it will now. . .

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=247006

I still think there is time to be gained by optimizing a computer controlled EBD system for race rubber and race suspension . . .
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 08:40 PM
  #384  
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From: Dillsburg
Originally Posted by boardkat
i just jumped out of a car with no ABS so i'm familiar with threshold breaking - mind you, the spec v didn't have QUITE as much power!

didn't realize corey was in an SE - but i'm sure he'd be just as fast no matter what trim he had!

since i can't yet dedicate a car to autox/track, it's going to have to pull double duty. guess i'll take the weight penalty, but be ultimately happier in a GSR-SE. thanks for everybody's input!

as an aside, dave, are you going to be in topeka? i'll be sure to look you up [i'll be rolling in DS/ITR/53].
I plan on being in Topeka this year. The car is good and I'm driving better so I think I've got a shot at being competitive in STU. Love ITR's, I had a black 2001 that I drove for a couple years.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #385  
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From: Beaverton, OR
Originally Posted by Dave Mac
I plan on being in Topeka this year. The car is good and I'm driving better so I think I've got a shot at being competitive in STU. Love ITR's, I had a black 2001 that I drove for a couple years.
having the top STI guys step outta STU with other priorities sure doesn't hurt your chances either i think this is the year that an EVO finally takes the cake

nats will be my first event in the ITR, so i'm sure to have a blast, for better or for worse!!

Last edited by boardkat; Jul 9, 2008 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2008 | 05:26 PM
  #386  
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Any high-level thoughts on set-up for concrete vs asphalt? I just entered the Wendover Pro and while I have run down on that cheese grater surface, it's never been in on street tires or an Evo. In the past I used to run everything a bit stiffer, but if there's anything else that'd be great to hear.

Thanks in advance
Tim
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Old Jul 24, 2008 | 06:01 AM
  #387  
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I always had trouble getting my '03 to rotate on concrete. I was having to run some stupid high pressures in the rear and even then it was still push city. Probably not as bad with a IX but you'll probably want to be more aggressive on your pressures and alignment.
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 03:01 PM
  #388  
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That makes sense, thanks Russ.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 10:00 AM
  #389  
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Pretty much every car I've driven on good concrete versus asphalt needs a stiffer and looser setup. I used to run about 1/8" toe out in the rear of my Neon on asphalt, but needed 1/2" toe to make it work on concrete. A lot depends on how bumpy it is too, but generally, stiffer rebound and a more agressive alignment.
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 02:44 PM
  #390  
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Originally Posted by Washburn
Pretty much every car I've driven on good concrete versus asphalt needs a stiffer and looser setup. I used to run about 1/8" toe out in the rear of my Neon on asphalt, but needed 1/2" toe to make it work on concrete. A lot depends on how bumpy it is too, but generally, stiffer rebound and a more agressive alignment.
Thanks Pat. The above will be good to keep in mind after Saturday morning runs...

Wendover is like no other surface most will see it's concrete from WWII w/lots of bumps from the expansion joints moving over the years. Having said that, it's also a huge surface, so I suspect a top of 2nd and/or 3 gear course set.

Really fun stuff when combined w/the Prosolo format
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